• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc WR 250 transmission oil

Ford ATF. Very little clutch drag , better shifting. Just keep an eye on the oil level, it seems to disappear
 
ohmygewd said:
WARNING: Cos it had success with me doesn't make it gospel so use at your own risk.

Shawbagga, I've tried Motul 5100 in my gearbox and it wrks fine but it's bloody expensive. It's recommended for my Aprilia which is picky on the type of oil as Mobile 1 fully syn caused clutch drag and then severe clutch slip when l had it on a trackday.
You have to be careful with the friction modifiers but if you want to go on the cheap...just use ATF, the only downside is you need to change regularly as it thins out quite quickly 2 rides max.
There is no harm in trying the penrite or any other motorcycle oil designed for wet clutches but, try a 1lt first and see how you go...the Rotella stuff that the US guys talk about, we don't get here as Shell doesn't import the type of diesel oil these guys are talking about.
As for a car oil, l've had success with Gulf Western Protecta Ultra as l dumped it in the 360 once when l changed oil and forgot l had no gear oil but left over car oil (GW stuff) and rode two days with no hint of slippage.

Does any have the cost of penrite 2t full syn premix? When l see 4lts on the penrite site, l drool!!
Click to expand...
didnt even know penrite made full syn 2T until you mentioned it mate, had a geez on their site & im gonna suss out a price off em for it! go the aussie gear! ill let you know.
 
Rob578 said:
Ford ATF. Very little clutch drag , better shifting. Just keep an eye on the oil level, it seems to disappear
Click to expand...
I use Ford ATF in my RM250 with a Revloc, since I work at a Ford Dealer Ship its FREE!.. It seems to work fine, just need to change it after every ride. In my WR300 I use 15-40w diesel oil. I have a Rekluse in it, I did notice that the trans would hit nuetral every so often when I was in 1st, about 4 times last outing. I called Rekluse tech line and they said the 15-40 oil was good to use and would not cause a transmission issue. Maybe shifter location since I raised it.
 
Steve-oh said:
I use Ford ATF in my RM250 with a Revloc, since I work at a Ford Dealer Ship its FREE!.. It seems to work fine, just need to change it after every ride. In my WR300 I use 15-40w diesel oil. I have a Rekluse in it, I did notice that the trans would hit nuetral every so often when I was in 1st, about 4 times last outing. I called Rekluse tech line and they said the 15-40 oil was good to use and would not cause a transmission issue. Maybe shifter location since I raised it.
Click to expand...

You may want to check you shift drum bolt. Mine was hitting neutral and it was completely loose, tightened it up and no problems since.
 
Gotlabs said:
You may want to check you shift drum bolt. Mine was hitting neutral and it was completely loose, tightened it up and no problems since.
Click to expand...
I had the same problem last ride. How do you check this? Pull the clutch basket?
 
454x said:
I had the same problem last ride. How do you check this? Pull the clutch basket?
Click to expand...

Yeah, pull the clutch basket, side cover, shifter shaft and it's the little allen head bolt type fastener in the center. I removed the hold down/shifter dog and cleaned everything with brake cleaner and loctited everything when I reinstalled everything.
 
Gotlabs said:
Yeah, pull the clutch basket, side cover, shifter shaft and it's the little allen head bolt type fastener in the center. I removed the hold down/shifter dog and cleaned everything with brake cleaner and loctited everything when I reinstalled everything.
Click to expand...
Thank you, this confirms what I seen in the manual.
 
454x said:
Thank you, this confirms what I seen in the manual.
Click to expand...
454x did you get a chance to check out the little allen bolt? I'm going to check mine out this weekend and I'm looking for a little more info on this little allen bolt. Does this bolt hold the "click" in place as per table 10 of the manual and #21 in the parts list? Does the shifter come out with no surprises? Looking for some direction on this one.

S
 
Steve-oh said:
454x did you get a chance to check out the little allen bolt? I'm going to check mine out this weekend and I'm looking for a little more info on this little allen bolt. Does this bolt hold the "click" in place as per table 10 of the manual and #21 in the parts list? Does the shifter come out with no surprises? Looking for some direction on this one.

S
Click to expand...
I have not had a chance to take it about yet.I was looking at it last night and it looks like the water pump also has to come off. Hopefully it won't be to difficult.
 
I know the clutch cover gasket is re-useable but how about the L/H engine cover and I believe the power valve has to come off as well correct?
 
My PV cover tore, I used a very thin dab of high temp silicone to repair it. Side cover was fine, shifter comes out with no issues.
 
Just be careful when you pull the shifter dogs out of the shift star, they will fall and could possibly go down in the motor. I used a impact to remove the clutch basket nut, but have also used a dead blow hammer to remove it. I have pulled mine apart once after the initial tightening to double check everything and it was solid, so it appears to be a once and done procedure.
 
Gotlabs said:
Yeah, pull the clutch basket, side cover, shifter shaft and it's the little allen head bolt type fastener in the center. I removed the hold down/shifter dog and cleaned everything with brake cleaner and loctited everything when I reinstalled everything.
Click to expand...
My allen was finger tight. Took everything apart to and put back together but now only have 1st and nuetral. What did I do wrong. I did notice a DOT on the shift star but did'nt see it when I took the dogs out.Help.....:cry:
 
I use the cheapest ATF i can get. Change it 3 or soo times a year, never had a problem in any of my 2 strokes with clutch drag or slip because of the oil.

Started using ATF when i seen that my TM manual called for it.
 
Steve-oh said:
Going to pull mine apart tonight, now I'm alittle nervous...
Click to expand...
Don't be nervous, I bought my bike second hand and am finding a bunch of stuff f'd up with it. The P O didn't even use a clutch side case gasket just silicon.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top