454x
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Thank you.
-
Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
250-500cc WR 250 transmission oil
- Thread starter wxc300
- Start date
Husqvarna
Palito
Husqvarna
AA Class
I had to double check if I was in the 2-stroke forum. Can not for the life life of me figure out why anyone would choose to run a 4-stoke engine oil in a 2-stroke transmission...isn't 4t engine oil a bit of a compromise. It certainly was not 100% designed for wet multidisc clutchs. I mean it is designed more for the combustion chamber and valve train of a 4T engine than it is for a wet clutch. Why not use a specificly designed 2T gear oil such as Belray 'Gear Saver' or Spectro 'Clutch Saver'? Seems like the only logical choice to me.
I've been using Belray Gear Saver 80W oil for over 25 years and never had a problem. Lately I only race HareScrambles and Enduros (no time to trail ride or even practice) -total of 50-60 hours a season, I'll start with fresh oil ever year and MAYBE change it half way thru the season. I've never had to service or replace a clutch since the Swedish aluminum drive plate clutch days. Also I've been running the same EFM auto clutch for 6 years in 3 different WR's.
Just my opinion.
I've been using Belray Gear Saver 80W oil for over 25 years and never had a problem. Lately I only race HareScrambles and Enduros (no time to trail ride or even practice) -total of 50-60 hours a season, I'll start with fresh oil ever year and MAYBE change it half way thru the season. I've never had to service or replace a clutch since the Swedish aluminum drive plate clutch days. Also I've been running the same EFM auto clutch for 6 years in 3 different WR's.
Just my opinion.
lankydoug
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I tried Bel-Ray Gear Saver and it was ok but it didn't work any better then Rotella and cost twice as much. Why do you think motor oil is a compromise in a transmission, after all it's recommended in many transmission applications?
Palito
Husqvarna
AA Class
I just think the design criteria is totally different, being that motor oil is designed to some extent to be comsumed in the cumbustion chamber. So those properties may or may not be desireable for the clutch.
I guess for me it comes down to the fact that a product that is designed exactly and only for the intended purpose in which I would use it, makes more sense to me.
I'm just a little surprised no one else who commented sees it that way.
I guess for me it comes down to the fact that a product that is designed exactly and only for the intended purpose in which I would use it, makes more sense to me.
I'm just a little surprised no one else who commented sees it that way.
Oils developed for transmissions have more sulfur and zinc in them to help cushion the contact faces of the the gears and other parts. Automotive oil is just designed differently, and some of the new light weight oil for the latest cars can actually make your motorcycle clutch slip.
lankydoug
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I realize that some additives are so slick that they can make the clutch slip but i thought that's why you are supposed to use diesel oil marked JASO
huskybear
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Just my 2 cents here. Rotella triple protection 15-40 as well as their t-6 oil is JASO MA approved. Jaso ma means it is approved for use in motorcycle engines with wet clutch systems. I use the t-6 in my husaberg 4-stroke and it works great. Cheaper than "motorcycle specific" oils as well. The rotella triple protection 15-40 is what I will be using in my 2012 cr125 without any concerns!
PowerKord
Husqvarna
AA Class
I always used type f in my Kawasaki's. I'm not sure what's best for my Husky, I have not been able to ride it enough. But it definitely can have a real clutch drag problem with the wrong oil. I'm trying a few different types. I've got Castrol MTX in it right now and it seems to drag with that as well. Gonna try Mobil 1 motorcycle specific oil next.
huskybear
Husqvarna
Pro Class
My husaberg used to have a slight clutch drag when I used motul oil but with the rotella t-6 it is substantially better and shifts better as well. As I said earlier I will use the rotella triple protection 15-40 in my cr and if I have drag or shifting issues I will use the t-6. The t-6 is a little thinner when cold.
Kevin_TE250
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Rotella 15-40 here....no problems so far
Harbinger
Hróðvitnir
If you check your manual you will see that it recommends Agip city 4t oil, that is a semisythetic 4t oil.
Harbinger
Hróðvitnir
I used Shell Advance motorcycle oil in my DR-Z 400 years ago, it was fine when it was summer but in the winter when the temperature got below -5 C it suffered from serious clutch slip. Since then i have been using Motul or Castrol semisynthetic. I would not use oil that is produced for car engines in my bike because they have added something in it too keep internal friction in the engine as low as possible, it can make your cluch slip.
Harbinger
Hróðvitnir
this makes me understand why you are using Rotella.
Motorcycle usage
Though marketed as an engine oil for diesel trucks, Rotella oil has found popularity with motorcyclists as well. The lack of "friction modifiers" in Rotella means they do not interfere with wet clutch operations. (This is called a "shared sump" design, which is unlike automobiles which maintain separate oil reservoirs - one for the engine and one for the transmission). Used oil analysis (UOA) reports on BobIsTheOilGuy.com have shown wear metals levels comparable to oils marketed as motorcycle-specific.
shawbagga
Husqvarna
Pro Class
hey
hey OMG have you or any other aussie riders ever tried penrite full synthetic 10w40? available @ autobahn & supercrap autos i think. says it safe for motorcycles with wet clutches & is about $50-$60 for 5 litres. was thinking about giving it a go as its cheap enough to change every coupla rides anyway! brother used to always run penrite in his cars, reckoned it was good & aussie owned/made i think.
ohmygewd
Husqvarna
Pro Class
WARNING: Cos it had success with me doesn't make it gospel so use at your own risk.
Shawbagga, I've tried Motul 5100 in my gearbox and it wrks fine but it's bloody expensive. It's recommended for my Aprilia which is picky on the type of oil as Mobile 1 fully syn caused clutch drag and then severe clutch slip when l had it on a trackday.
You have to be careful with the friction modifiers but if you want to go on the cheap...just use ATF, the only downside is you need to change regularly as it thins out quite quickly 2 rides max.
There is no harm in trying the penrite or any other motorcycle oil designed for wet clutches but, try a 1lt first and see how you go...the Rotella stuff that the US guys talk about, we don't get here as Shell doesn't import the type of diesel oil these guys are talking about.
As for a car oil, l've had success with Gulf Western Protecta Ultra as l dumped it in the 360 once when l changed oil and forgot l had no gear oil but left over car oil (GW stuff) and rode two days with no hint of slippage.
Does any have the cost of penrite 2t full syn premix? When l see 4lts on the penrite site, l drool!!
Shawbagga, I've tried Motul 5100 in my gearbox and it wrks fine but it's bloody expensive. It's recommended for my Aprilia which is picky on the type of oil as Mobile 1 fully syn caused clutch drag and then severe clutch slip when l had it on a trackday.
You have to be careful with the friction modifiers but if you want to go on the cheap...just use ATF, the only downside is you need to change regularly as it thins out quite quickly 2 rides max.
There is no harm in trying the penrite or any other motorcycle oil designed for wet clutches but, try a 1lt first and see how you go...the Rotella stuff that the US guys talk about, we don't get here as Shell doesn't import the type of diesel oil these guys are talking about.
As for a car oil, l've had success with Gulf Western Protecta Ultra as l dumped it in the 360 once when l changed oil and forgot l had no gear oil but left over car oil (GW stuff) and rode two days with no hint of slippage.
Does any have the cost of penrite 2t full syn premix? When l see 4lts on the penrite site, l drool!!