• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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250-500cc WR 250 Clutch Cable Advice?

Cosmokenney

Cosmokenney

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I just purchased a Venhill Universal Clutch Cable kit. I've never worked with cable clutches before and would love some advice.

It has a one piece cable housing, but I see that my stock cable has an adjuster near the head tube. I'm wondering if I can eliminate that?

What's the best way to cut the housing? I have a mountain bike cable cutting tool, but I think this housing and cable is thicker. I was just thinking that a dremmel with one of those thin cutoff wheels would be perfect for the job.

Where should I set my adjusters as a starting point with the new cable? All the way in, or halfway or...?

Should I just use the old housings and cable as a guide to the length for cutting the new stuff?

Any sage advice?
 
I have never had to make an adjustment at the adjuster by the head tube so I'd say you would be fine eliminating it. I've used cycle cable cutters and usually the cut just needs a little tidying before fitting furrel, I've never used a dremmel, if you have one I'm sure that would be fine. I usually set my adjuster at the lever not quite all the way in. Use the old cable as a guide to cut the new providing the old cable was routed correctly and not tight at full steering lock, also bear in mind if you ever want to raise the bars your going to need enough cable slack.
 
Dremal is spot on for the job yup eliminate it youve got adjustment on the lever and on the basket so ample to take up slack, back off basket not all the way and back off lever till about 3mm sticks out then cut to length, fingers crossed its all good.
Make sure your cable routings free and clear.
 
what was wrong with using a motion pro terminator? sounds like that would be easier than making a universal cable work?
 
Make sure and set the geometry at the clutch arm before you make the cable. It's simple to do, just pull the clutch cover and adjust the lock nut at the push-rod in the center of the basket so that the arm at the engine case pulls across 90 degrees as the clutch disengages. This makes the clutch pull easier and less prone to dragging, it also can change the cable adjustment quite a bit depending on how much it is off from the factory.
 
justintendo said:
what was wrong with using a motion pro terminator? sounds like that would be easier than making a universal cable work?
Click to expand...

Trying to reduce clutch pull. So searches on this site found references to the Venhill Teflon Coated Cable. That and the clutch actuator arm mod. -- which I'm doing today.
 
lankydoug said:
Make sure and set the geometry at the clutch arm before you make the cable. It's simple to do, just pull the clutch cover and adjust the lock nut at the push-rod in the center of the basket so that the arm at the engine case pulls across 90 degrees as the clutch disengages. This makes the clutch pull easier and less prone to dragging, it also can change the cable adjustment quite a bit depending on how much it is off from the factory.
Click to expand...

Clutch pull is the main reason for getting this teflon cable. Is there any chance you could mark up this diagram and circle the parts you are referencing? I'm not real familiar with the clutch.
WR250 Clutch Diagram.png
 
The upside down L on the left is the actuator arm, the same bit you cut and extend to make pull easier.
The flat blade screw slot and 10mm lock nut is the adjuster bottom right.

If your not familiar with these items may i sugest you buy a powerball and use that, less likly to cause more issues with a stronger left arm.
 
juicypips said:
The upside down L on the left is the actuator arm, the same bit you cut and extend to make pull easier.
The flat blade screw slot and 10mm lock nut is the adjuster bottom right.

If your not familiar with these items may i suggest you buy a powerball and use that, less likly to cause more issues with a stronger left arm.
Click to expand...

Okay, I need to learn how to do this, so just in case I get brave, is the adjuster at bottom right A or B on my marked up diagram? I was leaning towards C or D but you said bottom right:
WR250 Clutch Diagram.png
 
Back off the 10 mm lock nut in circle "B" and adjust the flat slotted rod in the center so that the lever arm above "D" actuates the clutch at 90 degrees. This will do more for improving the feel and making the pull easier than any cable you buy. You can watch the clutch disengage with the cover off while you pull the lever and it will become evident what you are trying to accomplish. My stock cable wasn't bad at all but I bought the Motion Pro cable anyway which improved it only slightly. Once I did this adjustment it is as good as a cable clutch as you could expect from a 250. My bike is an 09 wr250 same as yours. I use a shorty lever with one or two fingers always on the lever when I ride.
 
I run a motion pro cable made 3 inches shorter then stock run it over the motor to the right then left to the lever it is a one finger pull on both my 250 and my 300
 
lankydoug said:
Back off the 10 mm lock nut in circle "B" and adjust the flat slotted rod in the center so that the lever arm above "D" actuates the clutch at 90 degrees. This will do more for improving the feel and making the pull easier than any cable you buy. You can watch the clutch disengage with the cover off while you pull the lever and it will become evident what you are trying to accomplish. My stock cable wasn't bad at all but I bought the Motion Pro cable anyway which improved it only slightly. Once I did this adjustment it is as good as a cable clutch as you could expect from a 250. My bike is an 09 wr250 same as yours. I use a shorty lever with one or two fingers always on the lever when I ride.
Click to expand...

I have to admit, the clutch pull isn't bad. In fact it's easier than my TE511's hydro clutch. It's just that I'm trying to do some cross training on my 250 and want to get as close to a trials bike clutch as I can. I like to hold on with 3 fingers and manipulate the clutch with 1. But the clutch is stiff enough that after a 30 minutes or so of slow drills I get pretty fatigued.
 
250 you can retro fit achinese hydro slave and make a cable and use a hydro brake from bicycle to do your clutch, simple n cheap
 
juicypips said:
250 you can retro fit achinese hydro slave and make a cable and use a hydro brake from bicycle to do your clutch, simple n cheap
Click to expand...

I was looking at the Magura hydro kit, but it's way too expensive for me. I'll definitely look into the Chinese stuff, though.
 
Its alright bit cheap feeling but fine to use no discomfort.
But its not a quality unit!
The age old saying you get what you pay for.
 
a hydro clutch sounds like something not to cheap out on...blowing clutch fluid everywhere during the middle of a ride sounds fun.
 
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