• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Wow this coulda been bad!

Yeah I seYcoupla emails & turns out ktm & beta are same bearing which is good.

Yeah I gotta admit an estart would be nice in certain circumstances. 6 speed too! Still can't complain about the old 300 it's still a grunty beast, just getting old & tired! :(

Mate bought a 17 300sefr, nice bike even if has 2 strokes too many!

Yeah there are some that would suggest that the 300sefr is just about the best dirt bike on the planet and I think I would probably ride it better and faster,but just can't go past a 300 2t.
 
My wr125 was playing up on friday then it died after a short push home and a strip of the carb to find nothing blocking the jets and checking the plug to find no spark on my conquest to solve the issue I stumbled across this same resitotor was melted on my bike as Well so I changed it out for a new ceramic one thinking that'll be the end of it..all in it cost me 30p then after kicking the bike a few times it became apparent that this wasn't my major issue turned out to be the 4 pin connector for the ecu I happened to have the plug in my hand and jiggled the wires whilst kicking it and I got a nice strong belt up my arm turns out the white wire had snapped away from the spade inside the connector hope this helps..if your from the UK I got the resistor from maplins
 
Dude that is exactly what mine did except it was the brown wire! Spade connector had rusted apart! I just bought a ceramic 10W 27 ohm resistor too. Cost me $1.80! Husky wanted $155!!! Mate is soldering it up this week for me then good to go I think

The resistor is required I'm told by a highly qualified electrician/mechanic. It's a shunt path resistor that basically gets the reg/rec to 'idle' by drawing a little current continuously rather than boot up every time power is needed. Hence when the earth wire failed, extra current was pumped through resistor leading to overheating.
He also suggested to get a 25-50W type(dump resistor with integral alloy heat sink). Auto sparky mate said get an LED flasher type resistor. Both said maintain oem ohm rating
 
I'm guessing the resistor was for the original odometer. So if that was the case and you installed a 25-50W the odo would fry. Can't think of what else would want only 10W.
No resistor here, TrailTech odo plugs directly to yellow wire, so must have it's own resistor. :cheers:
 
I'm guessing the resistor was for the original odometer. So if that was the case and you installed a 25-50W the odo would fry. Can't think of what else would want only 10W.
No resistor here, TrailTech odo plugs directly to yellow wire, so must have it's own resistor. :cheers:
Yeah dunno Steve just going on what I'm told. Does your bike have a rec/reg?

The trailtech units are designed to work with mx bikes(no rec/reg) too & I'm sure can run AC or DC so you're probably right. They may well have their own surge protection
 
Maybe to protect tail lights/indicators as they'd be low wattage? I guess as long as your wiring doesn't fail like mine & fella from UK you'll be sweet. If it does then might melt ya speedo?!
 
Yeah dunno Steve just going on what I'm told. Does your bike have a rec/reg?

The trailtech units are designed to work with mx bikes(no rec/reg) too & I'm sure can run AC or DC so you're probably right. They may well have their own surge protection
Yes, both mine have rectifier so odo gets @ 12VDC. TrailTech poop sheet says input range is 9-55VDC/9-400VAC.
 
Mine has this yellow wire hangin on space and my reg is in a box! Works great with a number plate.
 
My bike died again today after sorting the spade connector unfortunately I couldn't get the right resistor and went for a 33ohm 10watt thought it wouldn't make to much of a difference due to running a extra led lamp although I've lost power again any ideas gents as I need my bike running :/
 
my '12 3hondo had the same little "pea pod" resistor. it didnt come on the bike. it was in the "gift box" with the head lamp and harness. i knew those got pretty hot so when i installed the headlamp and harness i ran it down under the tank and lock-wired it to the hose clamp "tail" on the coolant hose hose clamp on the head so it would cool better and be out from under the tank and not touching anything. looked fine barely could see it and it stayed cool. i posted a pic of it years ago here but i cant find it see ill if the bud i sold the bike to can send me a pic.
 
Righto it's all back together(as 125 again) & running sweet except it's a little blubbery/doughy right off the bottom. 1/4 turner leaner on rod sounds ok yeah? Figure the 165 would've liked a bit more fuel & 125 a bit less?

Also with the lectron slide do you guys put a bit if oil on it when installing? I usually do as feels dry when removed normally. Does the slide/spring/bottom of cable get any oil mist lube?
 
Is it idling right? 1/4 leaner shouldn't hurt unless it's already too lean. Both my red Huskys like to be a little lean on the bottom and a little rich on top.

I thought the slide was too dry also. Even greased it at first. Now I use a little premix oil on it and I lube the cable with spray silicone until a little drips out of the bottom which lubes the spring, etc too. Seems the slide is kinda high wear with Lectron. :cheers:
 
Idle ok but did have to turn it up a smidge which would indicate slightly rich. Could feel plug loading up in low rev tight single & had to clean it out with a good long WOT run. Will report back on how she goes tomorrow!
 
Ran much better with quater turn leaner on rod but still loading up & spooging more than it should(pipe silencer union dribbling onto swingarm & bit out exhaust). Will try quater turn leaner again & see
 
Oooh, getting nervous for ya mate. Have you measured the rod? Past 50mm makes me nervous. Which rod is it? Maybe you need a different rod instead.
Actually, theory is bigger bore has increased intake velocity and needs leaner jets/rod to compensate, so 165 rod would be lean on a 125.
Where's that thread where you siezed your 125? :cheers:
 
Oooh, getting nervous for ya mate. Have you measured the rod? Past 50mm makes me nervous. Which rod is it? Maybe you need a different rod instead.
Actually, theory is bigger bore has increased intake velocity and needs leaner jets/rod to compensate, so 165 rod would be lean on a 125.
Where's that thread where you siezed your 125? :cheers:

My understanding is that Australian fuel is not good and presents problems which require needles and jetting that differ greatly from what the rest of us use.
 
MS3 rod. Haven't measured but it's definitely too rich still. Squish at 1.2mm-1.3mm probably doesn't help but didn't have thinner base gasket
 
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