• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Why do i have to keep adjusting my chain?

DirtyKid

Husqvarna
B Class
Like the tittle says. i find that every 3-4 weeks of daily riding, i have to make the chain tighter and i don't know why. i have tried to tighten the axle nut more, in-case that might help but it hasn't. Any suggestions?
 
Are you locking out the adjuster nuts against each other after tightening the axle? Is the chain new? Are you checking the tension with weight on the seat, off the seat, bike on a stand, bike on a sidestand, etc..?
 
Chains usually require very little adjustment during most of their lives. If you are adjusting a lot it'is a sign that your chains life is near its end.
OEM chains aren't generally of the highest quality.
 
Are you locking out the adjuster nuts against each other after tightening the axle? Is the chain new? Are you checking the tension with weight on the seat, off the seat, bike on a stand, bike on a sidestand, etc..?

i am locking the lock nuts. the chain is not new but the rear sproket is. it has the same number of teeth as the last one. and i check the tension when the bike is vertical without putting weight on the seat.
 
Thats odd. Its an o-ring chain?
Front sprocket tight?

Yes it's an o-ring chain. the front sprocket is tight. i honestly have no idea why it keeps loosening. the chain may just be at the end of its life, that's the only reason i can think of.
 
It is not a good idea to replace a sprocket and not a chain. They wear out together. Your chain is likely at the end of it's service life, and damaging the new sprocket trying to match.
 
It is not a good idea to replace a sprocket and not a chain. They wear out together. Your chain is likely at the end of it's service life, and damaging the new sprocket trying to match.

Hmmmm. ok. i suppose i should go pick up a new chain soon then.
 
Yeh thats a rule of thumb with bikes. Do the sprockets and chain together. If theres not much life in the chain id put a new one on 'er
 
I'll be honest, i have no idea what your talking about.

A high compression thumper has extreme firing impulses that need to be absorbed somewhere. Riding in the dirt they are absorbed to a great degree, but on hard packed or pavement not so much, so basically everything between the piston and the rear tire need to do it.. Countershafts, sprockets and chains are the first to show extreme wear.
I just put a second generation Kush sprocket on my TE610 and I can feel the difference, but a cush hub (like Norman says) is the real answer.. They used to be OEM on the 610s....
 
A high compression thumper has extreme firing impulses that need to be absorbed somewhere. Riding in the dirt they are absorbed to a great degree, but on hard packed or pavement not so much, so basically everything between the piston and the rear tire need to do it.. Countershafts, sprockets and chains are the first to show extreme wear.
I just put a second generation Kush sprocket on my TE610 and I can feel the difference, but a cush hub is the real answer.. They used to be OEM on the 610s....

ok. makes sense.
 
you ensure your chain is at the correct tension, you need to compress the suspension so the countershaft, swingarm pivot, and rear axle are in line with each other. this is when your chain is at its tightest. here is where you set your tension, ensuring its not too tight or too loose.
 
you ensure your chain is at the correct tension, you need to compress the suspension so the countershaft, swingarm pivot, and rear axle are in line with each other. this is when your chain is at its tightest. here is where you set your tension, ensuring its not too tight or too loose.


This. My guess is that you are over tightening, and when you load the suspension, you're stretching the chain. There should be slack through the full suspension travel. It will appear "too loose" sitting on the side stand..
 
This. My guess is that you are over tightening, and when you load the suspension, you're stretching the chain. There should be slack through the full suspension travel. It will appear "too loose" sitting on the side stand..

i suppose that is possible. when i get a new chain, im going to check the bike manual to make sure i do it right.
 
I'm off road only on the 610 and I leave my chain on the loose side. I can make it touch the swing arm where the plastic chain guide ends at the bottom. I also had a 50 t rear sprocket, with a smaller one ( 45 t ) it would touch easy. If your pulling the chain tight, that's no good!
 
Back
Top