• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st Which Coolant for my WR 300 that I just blew up

I feel like I hijacked this thread but I thought my issue was relevant. The tough part is this bike never overheated previously but after I crushed my radiators in a crash and had them rebuilt it has been an ongoing issue.

I did have to run it after the crash for about 8 miles without fluid that circulated.

I will check the jetting.

Just want my good running bike back!
 
zilly said:
I feel like I hijacked this thread but I thought my issue was relevant. The tough part is this bike never overheated previously but after I crushed my radiators in a crash and had them rebuilt it has been an ongoing issue.

I did have to run it after the crash for about 8 miles without fluid that circulated.

I will check the jetting.

Just want my good running bike back!
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no worries about over running this thread. all of this is useful to me as well since i never really figured out what caused me to lose all my fluid and overheat thus causing my top end dilemmas. all of the remarks have clued me in to things i need to check once i get this puppy back together. Thanks for contributing to my solution.
 
Bryan M said:
My wr300 has never overheated but my 449 boils alot in single track. I switched to maxima coolanol, seems to help. I would tell you tho to make sure you check jetting as others have mentioned, also give you impeller a check to make sure there is no issues, and also were you low on coolant when you drained it? The wr seems very resistant to boiling so I would make sure I checked everything! Goodluck
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yes i was nearly bone dry once i took the hoses off in preparation to remove the top end. That is what clued me in to a possible coolant failure that caused this whole fiasco. I have a few things that have made me scratch my head. The first was the bad O-ring in the top of the cylinder cover - this may have caused me to leak out all my fluid and overheat. Also, the V-force Reed boot appears to be cracking around the square part and this makes me wonder if I have a vacuum leak there somewhre also. Crazy stuff as this motor only has 342 miles on it.
 
JDJ said:
yes i was nearly bone dry once i took the hoses off in preparation to remove the top end. That is what clued me in to a possible coolant failure that caused this whole fiasco. I have a few things that have made me scratch my head. The first was the bad O-ring in the top of the cylinder cover - this may have caused me to leak out all my fluid and overheat. Also, the V-force Reed boot appears to be cracking around the square part and this makes me wonder if I have a vacuum leak there somewhre also. Crazy stuff as this motor only has 342 miles on it.
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Yes, keep a sharp eye on the reed/intake boot. It cracks easily and deteriorates quickly. I had to replace mine on my '11 wr300 after about 1.5 years (or 41 rides, 1,100 miles, bought new). Replace ASAP if its condition is suspect.
 
Brian Scott said:
Yes, keep a sharp eye on the reed/intake boot. It cracks easily and deteriorates quickly. I had to replace mine on my '11 wr300 after about 1.5 years (or 41 rides, 1,100 miles, bought new). Replace ASAP if its condition is suspect.
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thats crazy, I had a season on my wr300 and I just replaced the boot. I noticed it while the bike was in tbe bed of my truck and attributed it to taking the carb on and off a few times. It seemed kinda hard on the boot. I think the PWK is a hair longer.
 
My boot was cracked also after only a year of riding. I finally replaced it for good measure, but none of the cracks went through the boot that I could see. There was a thread on Thumpertalk where a guy took Engine Ice and tested it and was pretty positive that it was 60% polypropylene glycol and 40% water. I went to Napa bought a gallon of Sierra Low Tox which is polypropylene glycol and mixed it with 40% distilled water. I used to have issues with 50/50 ethylene glycol and water on steep slow hills. Water wetter helped, but it would still push steam out of the overflow. I haven't had an issue since switching over, even in nasty stuff where my buddies' bikes are steaming. This is my experience, yours may vary.
 
I am going to check that boot on the reed cage tonight.
My bike is an 09 and has some miles on it. I have read multiple times on here about issues with the reed cage and some leakage issues around it so I will check it out.
Does anyone have an idea of how to check for leaks there other than the visually obvious cracks?
Forgive my ignorance please.
 
zilly said:
I am going to check that boot on the reed cage tonight.
My bike is an 09 and has some miles on it. I have read multiple times on here about issues with the reed cage and some leakage issues around it so I will check it out.
Does anyone have an idea of how to check for leaks there other than the visually obvious cracks?
Forgive my ignorance please.
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many on here have recommended to put gaskets on both sides of the reed cage - one on cylinder side and one where boot meets cage. Factory gasket was not sufficient apparantly.
 
I think it was around $100 but it was worth it to me, was going through to many OEM ones. I have noteced my wr125s doing the same
 
Almost an easy answer could be "Anything but the stock junk would be an improvement"....

When I needed the water pump seal replaced due to the milky oil syndrome, I made the mistake of ordering the parts at 3am after a night out with some old friends, a few pints of Guinness, and a couple shots of Patron, needless to say when looking at the parts diagram (it should have been diagrams) I forgot to include the seal itself and just ordered the sleeve and o-ring. So since I wanted to ride I replace them only and have had no issue with milky oil since. The sleeve was pitted and corroded on the coolant side.
 
Ok, I looked at my reed cage last night and it looks like there is a small crack on the exterior but I am not sure if it is just a little imperfection in the plastic or a crack. I am going to look closer at it tonight and try to snap a picture or two.

I don't have mikly oil that I have noticed but I have been suspicious that I may have a water pump issue.

I will check my specs on my rings and piston to see if that is out of whack. I think the more I hear and read I may have an air leak.

Bout ready to give up though and send it someone I have to pay...darn.
 
Joedints said:
Almost an easy answer could be "Anything but the stock junk would be an improvement"....

When I needed the water pump seal replaced due to the milky oil syndrome, I made the mistake of ordering the parts at 3am after a night out with some old friends, a few pints of Guinness, and a couple shots of Patron, needless to say when looking at the parts diagram (it should have been diagrams) I forgot to include the seal itself and just ordered the sleeve and o-ring. So since I wanted to ride I replace them only and have had no issue with milky oil since. The sleeve was pitted and corroded on the coolant side.
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I drained my oil last month and it was white, but I wasnt down on coolant. When yours was leaking how fast did you lose coolant?? Several people said I probably just got water through the breather tube from some very wet rides and deep creek crossings. Hoping I dont have the same issue as you.
 
Bryan M said:
I drained my oil last month and it was white, but I wasnt down on coolant. When yours was leaking how fast did you lose coolant?? Several people said I probably just got water through the breather tube from some very wet rides and deep creek crossings. Hoping I dont have the same issue as you.
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It never was actually leaking to my knowledge. The leak must have been internal. I usually check my coolant regularly but i haven't even really had much time to ride this year. So what I think happened was that once the O-ring in the top of the cylinder went bad, the coolant began leaking then. I do recall seeing some real white smoke out the silencer so i think it kind of all happend at once and then it overheated and here I sit. I just got it back from Halls today. Im anxious to put it back together but a bit nervous not knowing if any further issues are down below. I just do not want to split the case if I can help it..
 
Bryan M said:
I drained my oil last month and it was white, but I wasnt down on coolant. When yours was leaking how fast did you lose coolant?? Several people said I probably just got water through the breather tube from some very wet rides and deep creek crossings. Hoping I dont have the same issue as you.
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I changed the tranny oil two weeks ago and it was also white (for the very first time) and less viscous than normal, but my coolant level was normal. I then noticed the crankcase breather tube and union missing and I had previously been on some very wet rides, so thinking I sucked in some water...great. Haven't noticed any adverse effects though.
 
Bryan M said:
I drained my oil last month and it was white, but I wasnt down on coolant. When yours was leaking how fast did you lose coolant?? Several people said I probably just got water through the breather tube from some very wet rides and deep creek crossings. Hoping I dont have the same issue as you.
Click to expand...

Well 2 times I changed the oil it was milky but the rad was full, per say, I was through a few puddles and though maybe it was getting in thru the breather. 3rd time I changed it it was slightly below the cooling fins so I topped it off. We were a week from our Enduro so I just wanted to nurse it through as I had a section I needed to work. Then it overheated and was really low. So I was pretty sure it was the pump seal. But as I said the sleeve was the problem. I was figuring I would be replacing it anyway but needed the bike so was willing to wait till after the event. But I would replace it anyway if your going to do it and not just the sleeve. It's to cheap of a part not to.
 
I am ordering the new intake boot. Thanks for the link. I looked closer last night and I definitely have a crack there.

I am really hoping that was/is my issue.
I am also going to get two new gaskets for either side of the reed cage. Are those something I could cut from gasket material or do I need to order the premade ones?
 
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