• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Where do you adjust the chain on these old beasts?

Yep, brakes are the issue..... you need to constantly work on them, cleaning and greasing pivots and checking the balance rod hasn't moved. the trick with lining the drum with wet and dry to match the shoes is worth doing too.
 
I just rode in a heap of soft deep sand and it seems to have done a good job! she's a lock up with ease brake now... beats sanding with emery!
 
Looking at your brake photo and if thats how they came out of the wheel then they are adjusted just a tiny bit wrong.
The shoes should sit on the cams flat , the top one is not the same as the bottom one.
You have only one shoe working there.
Then if you extend [ lengthen ] the top [ longer ] brake arm until the cable bracket is almost touching the brake stay you will have the max leverage.
When assembling have someone pull the brakes on hard before you do up the axle [ this centralizes the backing plate ].
My DLS's are as good as a disk.
My 85 has DLS's and my 86 has a twin spot disk setup from a later model so I can judge between them.
Cheers
 
When assembling, have someone spin the wheel backwards then pull on the brakes before tightening the nut (without letting go of the brakes. also note the funny husky method of centralising the forks and wheel. check your not pulling the fork sliders in toward each other when doing up the nut. if you are you will notice an increase in apparent stiction in the forks.
 
I believe the extra swingarm lug started on the 83 510's, because of all the torque, it probably helps keep the chain from loosening , even when slowing down.

My 84 510 got it Husky John
 
I did adjust it some the other day to get it more balanced shoe to shoe but my actuation arm is still a lot lower then yours.
 
The arm needs to be lengthened to get more force applied to the brake shoes. Dukkmans photo shows the max length possible.
 
I did adjust it some the other day to get it more balanced shoe to shoe but my actuation arm is still a lot lower then yours.
Moto
The arm position is related to the thickness of the shoe lining and as yours are new that's what I would expect to happen.
Mine are worn and the cable is adjusted up for minimum free play to get max braking.
My brake lever [ handle bar end ] only travels a short distance before my brakes start to work.
Cheers
 
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