What's this stuff on my screen filter?? (TE310R)

[268fords]

That Mobil 1 0W-40 is some great oil. My clutch became so much smoother when I switched over years ago. All my bikes, and engines get it now except for my diesel. Makes a great gun lube too. Tinken had saved me so much money over the last few years on oil changes its not even funny.

 

[MotAd]

Nice Trenchcoat, nice.

Yeah I'm riding motocross & enduro tracks at the mo so a bit quicker than the lanes. We're lucky where I live and there is an abundance of off road tracks. One thing the UK does get right!

Good advice on the filter changes etc. They're pretty cheap here but the oil I use is quite expensive (silkolene 10/50). Probably works out to be twice as expensive as yours.

Gonna sort the bike on Saturday and take her for a spin so if there's any problems with it, I'll be sure to post up here for some sympathy!

I think that's a reasonable plan. But I average 20mph so that would be every 100 miles (lotsa of single track here).

BTW, if it were me, I'd alternate the screen cleaning and the filter change; might allow you to catch something earlier. And you could still just do the drain plug every other time.

I do a filter change at every oil change- but it's right before 500 miles for me so you're being more aggressive. Here in the US, I can get a HiFlo 116 delivered to my home for under $4, so I always have one on the shelf. When I use one, I hit eBay up for the next one. And the zero-40 Mobil 1 I use is $24 for 5qts... so each oil change is under $10 (guessing €9, £8).

 

[MotAd]

Sounds interesting. Is this the oil you need to run a stainless filter with due to initial oil flow?

That Mobil 1 0W-40 is some great oil. My clutch became so much smoother when I switched over years ago. All my bikes, and engines get it now except for my diesel. Makes a great gun lube too. Tinken had saved me so much money over the last few years on oil changes its not even funny.

 

[268fords]

Sounds interesting. Is this the oil you need to run a stainless filter with due to initial oil flow?

No. Standard Hiflo filters work fine.

 

[MotAd]

wait 'till you try the drain bolt- I doubt you'll be using the oil-return nipple/bolt thingy much.

Hey Trenchcoat. What torque setting do you use for the drain bolt? Can't find any reference to it in the manual and online!

 

[Trenchcoat85]

Hey Trenchcoat. What torque setting do you use for the drain bolt? Can't find any reference to it in the manual and online!

CRS- does it have the copper washer or aluminum? I'd guess 17lbs (~22Nm?). I just go by feel.

 

[MotAd]

Looks like a copper washer on there. Will just mark its current position with a pen when I drop the oil next to avoid any dramas but that 22nm sounds about right. Switched the filter round, bike seems totally fine. Lesson learned!

 

[Trenchcoat85]

cool. IIRC, my drain bolt was really in there.

Actually, this was a problem with a lot of fasteners on my bike (I go over them constantly on a new bike, for the first few months, to learn which fasteners are good and which are gonna give me problems... and I think the tank retaining bolt was the big loser here; it took about 5 months before it took a "set").

Anyhow, you might try breaking the torque on the drain, then (at the very next moment) re-tightening to the original spot to get a feel for the torque.

 

[Johnrg]

One note on that sump drain bolt of the 13/14. They do break. Being sunken in, it will fracture in time, right in that area. I broke one about a year ago and replaced with a magnetic 7602 bolt w/normal hex. Luckily the screw had loosened just prior to it breaking. Good to have a spare in the toolbox.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

Johnrg- sounds like your drain bolt head broke off right at the junction between the flange and the hex recess? Thanks for the heads-up.

BTW, you don't have any pics do you? (I'm a fiend for images now in the digital age).

 

[Johnrg]

No pics, just tossed it out. Yes walls were thin in the recess. A large flat area where it seats and then cupped and thin where the allen head is. Would have been fine if they didn't recess it.

 

[MotAd]

interesting to know this – what size was the bolt if you can remember? might get something pre-ordered as i don't want anymore downtime on this bike. planning to do a lot of riding over christmas!

cheers

One note on that sump drain bolt of the 13/14. They do break. Being sunken in, it will fracture in time, right in that area. I broke one about a year ago and replaced with a magnetic 7602 bolt w/normal hex. Luckily the screw had loosened just prior to it breaking. Good to have a spare in the toolbox.

 

[Johnrg]

14mm maybe.... I don't see them on 7602 Racing's web site any more. I wonder if another make like Ducati might use a similar sized drain bolt. If you find one post the results since even the 7602 Racing bolt head is soft and can strip/round the hex, if not careful in use.

Just searched and while Zip Ty had one listed... It's no longer but from searching it appears
M14 x 1.5 x 14 may be the size.

Ebay shows some that may universally work though many are M14 x 1.25

 

[MotAd]

That's awesome thanks for taking the time to do that John. As luck would have it that's the same size sump bolt as I have on the Daytona, and I bought a magnetic one for that as a spare so I'm set. Will see how it matches next time I drop the oil. Here's the link for it anyhow... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282146959526

 

[Trenchcoat85]

yeah, I confirmed in the WSM that the drain bolt is M14x1.5 (and MotAd: 25Nm, 18ft-lbs.... I wasn't far off; actually, I like to go a bit light in aluminum anyways). [edit: the manual is wrong for my 2014 TE310R- the bottom drain bolt is M16 x 1.5 (and 22mm deep including the magnet but not the washer). see post below]

Anyhooooo, On eBay I stumbled across some green anodized drain bolts with a rare earth magnet for $0.99 USD delivered with a nice copper washer and a safety wire hole. Or I can splurge for a $1.77 and get a nice red one to go where no one will see it. hmmmm. This would be easier than adding my own magnet to the stock bolt- which I like because I can stick it on the end of my allen and insert fairly easy.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/M14X1-5-Eng...ot-With-Crush-Washer-1pcs-green-/271985690935
http://www.ebay.com/itm/M14-x-1-5-R...da-Acura-Mazda-Mitsubishi-Suzuki/252218182491

oh yeah, Johnrg- I came upon the torque spec for the CS sprocket nut and it was 100Nm like you said. Then on the next page it said 90Nm for the same nut (so 74 and 65 ft-lb). those italians are all over the map with their torque; but always kinda high IMNSHO.

here's an image from a year ago (~2500 miles total) and the weak-assed composite magnet is still managing to hold some ferrous stuff

 

[MotAd]

top work trenchcoat

 

[Johnrg]

Excellent pricing..... I could have bought a case of them compared to the race shops. Maybe Cafe Husky should open a online store and sell drain bolts.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

yeah, I confirmed in the WSM that the drain bolt is M14x1.5 (and MotAd: 25Nm, 18ft-lbs.... I wasn't far off; actually, I like to go a bit light in aluminum anyways).

Anyhooooo, On eBay I stumbled across some green anodized drain bolts with a rare earth magnet for $0.99 USD delivered with a nice copper washer and a safety wire hole. Or I can splurge for a $1.77 and get a nice red one to go where no one will see it. hmmmm. This would be easier than adding my own magnet to the stock bolt- which I like because I can stick it on the end of my allen and insert fairly easy.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/M14X1-5-Eng...ot-With-Crush-Washer-1pcs-green-/271985690935
http://www.ebay.com/itm/M14-x-1-5-R...da-Acura-Mazda-Mitsubishi-Suzuki/252218182491

oh yeah, Johnrg- I came upon the torque spec for the CS sprocket nut and it was 100Nm like you said. Then on the next page it said 90Nm for the same nut (so 74 and 65 ft-lb). those italians are all over the map with their torque; but always kinda high IMNSHO.

here's an image from a year ago (~2500 miles total) and the weak-assed composite magnet is still managing to hold some ferrous stuff

View attachment 74668

Shit. forgot to update this (I'm ordering another drain bolt. grrrrrrr)

Anyways, on the my xlite with a bottom drain plug, the frikken thing turned out to be M16 x 1.5 ...and I rechecked the manual- it says the wrong size too (pg X.2)

Well, that's $1.55 down the drain (I had ordered the red one with saftey wire holes). I guess I'm gonna hafta splurge and order this $2.29 plug http://www.ebay.com/itm/M16X1-5-Mag...hash=item58ed1e19e9:m:m2JdoDp2JzE-fslPDRqJSFA

On the bright side, member Caferacerman, who no longer rides a 310, sent me 4 new K&N oil filters free (he paid to ship 'em!) this past March. What a great community.

And the 5 qt. Mobil 1 Euro 0W40 price dropped down to $22 at Wally World. So I guess I am way ahead.

 

[Johnrg]

Scott.... So this red M16x1.5 is the right one? Link still works at $2.52. Height with that long magnet still OK? I need to get a spare.

 

[R_Little]

yeah, the drain bolt makes things easy (it uses an 8mm allen wrench)... but I'm wish the magnet wasn't such a weak-assed composite magnet; I wanna put a rare earth on it some day. Glad I could help.

My "hose-nippled-screen-bolt" was insanely tight (100 lbs/ft?) from the factory. I totally fvcked the hex head up, even while using a 12 point box wrench, trying to loosen it. I ended up using a torch, chisel and refrigerant spray to get it out- but I was scared it was gonna stay in there. The bolt metal was so soft I thought it was aluminum; I was totally blown away to find, by using a magnet, it was steel.

I bought a 6 point box wrench for it (14mm??) and a new nipple/bolt (obviously). The next few oil changes I just loosened the hose clamp (I forget what you English call 'em... "something" clip), removed the hose and took the nipple/bolt off. Putting it back together was a pain and I ended up putting the hose on first (IIRC) then tightening the bolt; later the hose clamp. Finding that drain plug was a relief (and it also irritated me that it wasn't mentioned)

I want to replace the nipple/bolt and screen with one from a TC, and reroute my breather return line into the head... so I can use the EE skid plate I've had on the shelf for more than a year now. But the damn bolt and TC screen is semi-expensive; I'll probably just end up brazing the stock nipple bolt solid.

The factory did that to my cam bearing caps!

Those 5mm bolts were tight as all heck and one came out with the threads when I finally got it out.
Had to remove and helicoil the head with 28 miles on the bike!