• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc What's next?

rockdancer

rockdancer

Husqvarna
Pro Class
The 144 with wr ignition isnt cutting it at the moment
Would like more power everywhere
Jetting is good
still have 125 pipe
Whats my next step?
Pipe? Cr ignition? 165 kit? Head mods
Whats the verdict on the bigger 39mm carb?
Does it give more top end?
I like the 144 but it doesn't hit hard - maybe a few more hours on it will loosen it up
What sort of compression should a new 144 have?
Anyone have any go faster bits for sale let me know
(I have a spare 125 setup so if I sell the ktm I will get it to Walt)
 
just installed the new 144 cylinder on my wr/cr125, took it for a quick spin round the yard and has a load more bottom end.I will need to take it for a good ride on the weekend to sus out the top end after a couple of heat cycles, with 125 cylinder it had little bottom, smooth build up to power valve opening and then good power .i'll let you know how it revs out with the mods i have done.i will do a compression test on it as well, expect around 190 psi i run no base gasket.
 
Go with the CR ignition next. It's good jump and makes the bike run better everywhere. I was really surprised when I put it on.
 
I must admit the bike is much better on technical hills with the wr144 setup
I was king of he hills!
If I change to cr setup is there less luggability? I'd imagine so.
The 165 is inevitable and i was thinking fatty as well
Hear a few people saying no base gasket - is that wise??
I guess there isn't too much that it can do
 
never used a base gasket or the wr ignition so hard for me to do a comparison also run a noleen racing pipe from a kx125 which gives a throatier sound and pulls better than the pro circuit i had on seems, to be larger in diameter allround.I will play with the ignition running less advance for more top end and less bottom may have to lean out the jetting too.
 
CR ignition will make it hit harder, faster but it's still tractable in the tight stuff. It eliminates that delay in the throttle response due to the flywheel weight. Highly recommend sending your carb off to Ron at RB Designs to have the divider plate and jetting mods installed. Hits much harder off the bottom. :cheers:
 
I have the CR (08) so I can't say what a difference the CR ignition would make on a WR but ....I've been through the stock 125 phase. Then the more better everywhere high compression Walt 144 with Fatty phase, and now I've found pure power heaven with the WB165 and the KTM 200 Fatty :D. The tip on the RB carb is good one; something I may do this winter. I say go for the WB165.
 
bigger displacement is the best bang for your buck.

get a WB 165 and a fatty pipe it ads power on the whole range and its very controllable it doesn't scream as long in the revs as the original set up does.
you might have to use a different pipe for it if that is what you need.

for sure the WB 165 puts a grin on your face from ear to ear

Robert-Jan
 
ok finnished work early and went for a 40 minute ride, the 144 is way smoother with less noticable hit but still revs out well.
jetting is now way off requiring leaner pilot and main.going to go 370 main and 20 pilot.
one thing i did notice was getting to top speed alot quicker but it feels slower due to smoother transition.
need to sort jetting out before next test, i will try it with a bit more advance as i took it back to standard to keep the overev.all in all i think this capacity could be the go for the gravel, clay conditions around here.
 
Mine was also too rich from 125 settings and adjusted the needle to second from top slot and went from 30 to 27.5 pilot and kept 380 main . older TMX - same as jo 360. It ran a lot better but may still be too rich - checking the plug it seems to be blacker on one side of the plug than other :excuseme:
I would like to try a leaner needle - is that a 61 ? Maybe that will help with a bit more power

Not sure about 20 pilot - let us know jo360 .
Compression is around 150psi after 2 1/2 hours on new top end - maybe a bit more compression would wake it up a bit? Whats the norm for a head shave .3mm? maybe a simple mod
I also noticed gearing seems too low now - so will go to 14 front sprocket
P1020671.JPG
hey that was easy to do now
what are thoughts guys?
 
You should drop your 125 top end in the mail to me. By the time I get it and turn it around you will be wanting it. ;)
 
ive got a spare 27.5 and 25 pilot if you want to give them a try.i will try a fatter needle aswell.
 
ok settled on a 15 pilot and 350 main could not get another needle so i dropped the main to suit, compression is 190 psi stone cold after 5 kicks, advanced timing to 5mm infront of mark.pulled clean run uphill slope wheel spinning in sixth, wheel spinning made me think i had to adjust my clutch as it was spinning a lot lower in the rev range.did about 2hrs on and off with no fouling issues plug looks a nice tan and ignition mark is spot on bend of plug electrode.next step will be to change gearing to 13/48 and weaker spring in power valve governor might try a weaker main spring with a stiffer shorter spring inside hoping this might bring power band on sooner but smoother.
 
I recently installed a 2000 CR ignition in my '95 WR 125 & it was a big improvement.:applause:
Much quicker throttle response, more instant power, stronger bottom end & mid but not quite as much power up top, I may need to tickle the ignition timing a little to give it more power up top. The only drawback is no lighting coil, but that isn't that hard to overcome.
I had to guess the timing as I have no timing tool & the '95 WR didn't show marks on the cases for the CR ignition to line up with.
You could go to the expense of a port job & head mods but I don't think you could go past Walt's 165 kit with the CR ignition & the right gearing. That sounds like the bomb as many people here have said.
Not running a base gasket can interfere with your squish clearance & can cause air leaks between the cylinder & the cases. You need to set squish clearance to suit the cylinder/piston you have.
I just wish the '97 & earlier 125's could be bored out to accomodate the larger piston that is in Walt's kit, unfortunately the way the power valve is setup in these models won't allow that.:(
Or you could go to a 250 if the 165 isn't enough power for you, but as we all know the 125's platform is just so much fun to ride ;)
 
Thanks guys good to hear you still have the 125 ausky
If I could find a cr ignition I'd do that next but not sure if the 165 needs the cr ignition as Walt says it is a bit smoother with the wr setup and has enough power.bang for $ both seem to be the go
 
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