• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

What Transmission oil?

Change oil as often as possible. Learned at very great session at Barber vintage - moisture can be in and around oil but not mixed in in it. The worst is someone who
never starts and runs bike and make it hot. A hot running bike burns off the internal moisture. As daily temp go up and down at night condensation from inside the crank case the condensate forms on the exposed metal of case, may even top of gears , top of exposed clutch etc. If you never drain like old bike tranny. or old fork oil - it looks like in has water in it or watery fluid. Gray in nature or just plain does not look like the oil you put in it.
Well that some bad oil there. Had to think about this for a while. They found in recovering old bikes, that the internal gears and metal parts even inside
a stored bike with oil in it can have damage. So now I am changing it in the running bikes - and changing in my bikes that don't get run much at all
 
I have the same problem with my tractors if I don't run them up to operating temps. I even find the water has formed in the hydraulics. I'm flushing one now. I read the color of the oils very carefully. Hydraulic oils turn a milky color. My point is if your using hydraulic oil in the tranny watch the color.

When I store all my four stroke engines it's with fresh oil and seafoam in the gas tank and crankcase. Seafoam loosens up stuck rings, cleans the carb and lubes the valve stems plus keeps the gas from going stale. On the tractors after the first application of seafoam the idle rpms actually pick up. The engines run smoother when seafoam is added. I buy used tractors that have been sitting for years.
 
Hi Bill,

When I had my 82 WR240, I serviced bearings and gearbox's in a industrial situation, we had a

base 15w/40 engine oil that was suitable for petrol and diesel engines, no friction modifiers!

Again I was in a situation to try different oils, straight 30w, ATF, 15w/40, I know others say they

have had success with ATF but I didn't.

I found after a full days ride using the 15w/40 there would be very little contamination from the

aluminum friction discs in the clutch.

Using lighter oils there would always be heavy contamination!

Using 15w/40 the 15w is one thinner than the recommended 20w when cold, but when hot the

40w is thicker than the 20w, should give more protection for those expensive gears.

But! change your oil regularly! I changed mine after every long ride or every race meet, enduro,

old time scramble,the oil won't have time to break down then.

In a gearbox with the friction between the gears the Hydrocarbon chains get cut and they cannot

join themselves back together!

So under use your oil is slowly losing its viscosity and needs to be changed!

Synthetics are better but more expensive! I would save synthetics for 4 strokes or new 2 strokes

not the old girls.

Remember we are talking about gearbox oil not 2 stroke oil that is a completely different

subject.

Regards, DaveM.
 
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