• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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What Oil Are You Using?

boxofish

boxofish

Husqvarna
A Class
Please note the title of the thread, I don't want to turn this into the age old debate as to what's better. My dealer uses Agip Synthetic 10w60 but I'm not sure if that's the route I'm going to take...

What are you using?
 
My dealer user Motorex 10w50 when I last had it service there. This weekend I did a service and used Motul 5100 10w50.

I am interested to know what others are using too. I have been debating whether it's worth spending the extra on some Motul v300, but it only seems to come in 10w40 or 15w50. With the temps here in Sydney (Australia) I would prefer the 15w50, but not sure if that viscosity is going to be good for the engine or not.
 
I got the Full Synthetic Motul 10w-50. I drove to 4 different dealers, but no one carried a 60 like the manual recommended. Works fine, shifts easier.
 
I was using Millers 10W60 synthetic after the tech said it was wet clutch safe. The engine felt good on it but as it doesn't get much above 20 degrees C here very often I've been using Motorex 10W50 synthetic 'cos my local bike shop carries it.

Not terribly scientific, but there you go. :lol:
 
I used Agip 10W60, but had the oil analysed during my last change. It lost viscosity to a low 40, high 30. Fuel dilution was 1.3% and cST viscosity was 13.09 instead of the expected range of 19.2 - 22.9. Flash point was low as well, the oil did 1,100 miles. For an oil to stay in grade with such a large stretch 10-60, they need to really use the best viscosity polymer additives available, which adds costs. The fuel dilution is not enough to make such a big effect. I changed while waiting for the analysis, so currently it is again AGIP 10W60, about 700 miles and I will have this analysed again when I change. Next change will be something else though, not AGIP.

I used the same AGIP 10w60 on my Harley, which is due for a change at 3,000 miles on the oil. Soon as I do that, I will post the analysis also for comparison. Harley gearbox does not run in the engine oil, so there should be less shear, we will find out soon.
 
I'm a big fan of diesel engine oil due to the anti-shear additives. I use Shell Rotella T6 Syn 5-40. I went to it at 600 miles after my second oil change. Shifts easier, easier to find neutral and the clutch action is better. I have used it in all my street bikes with positive results. I'm not too worried about the 5-40 since it rarely gets over 80 degrees and I only see 5-10 minutes of slow traffic on my commute. $13 dollars a gallon at Walmart.
 
Yep Rotella T dino in the tranny & Rotella syn in the oil compartment on my MTK 400 & Rotella T dino in my SM610... Change it regularly & still save money
 
I put Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic in everything (cars, motorcycles, lawn mowers, etc.) except 2 strokes. :)
 
jellyrug said:
I used Agip 10W60, but had the oil analysed during my last change. It lost viscosity to a low 40, high 30. Fuel dilution was 1.3% and cST viscosity was 13.09 instead of the expected range of 19.2 - 22.9. Flash point was low as well, the oil did 1,100 miles. For an oil to stay in grade with such a large stretch 10-60, they need to really use the best viscosity polymer additives available, which adds costs. The fuel dilution is not enough to make such a big effect. I changed while waiting for the analysis, so currently it is again AGIP 10W60, about 700 miles and I will have this analysed again when I change. Next change will be something else though, not AGIP.

I used the same AGIP 10w60 on my Harley, which is due for a change at 3,000 miles on the oil. Soon as I do that, I will post the analysis also for comparison. Harley gearbox does not run in the engine oil, so there should be less shear, we will find out soon.
Click to expand...
Holy smokes, this is the kind of feedback I was hoping to find! Just out of curiousity, do any of the guys using T6 have any used oil analysis reports. I thought I read somewhere that Rotella shears very quickly...
 
The new 630 comes with Castrol 5w40 full synthetic not 5w50(oops) The 449/511 is Castrol 10w50 full synthetic, motorsports oil, not the automotive stuff. I have no problems with it, good stuff. Automotive oils, Except for the RACING specified oils have the zink additives (ZDP) removed for environmental reasons. This is the stuff that adds the "shear" strength to oil. Today's automotive engines do not need this any more due to the use of rollerized valvetrains. Motorcycle engines still rub the cam on the bucket or follower to lift the valve, also motorcyle oils have additives for the wet clutch.
 
boxofish said:
Holy smokes, this is the kind of feedback I was hoping to find! Just out of curiousity, do any of the guys using T6 have any used oil analysis reports. I thought I read somewhere that Rotella shears very quickly...
Click to expand...
I've never read that.... But I change my oil every 3rd ride (about 12 hours) no problems for many years now.
 
Good thread!
I bring this up cuz my engine builder (ex Canadian Superbike mech) says we shouldn't use 10-60, he stresses 5W30/40. Our ambient temps aren't high enough (10W60 is meant for +40'C/ 100'F temps). He suggests Motul 5-40.
I use the AGIP 10W60 cuz I can get it, but like to see what others run.
 
boxofish said:
So does anyone see a problem with running a 5w40(rotella) oil in a bike that's spec'd to run 10w50?
Click to expand...
I'll be using 5W40 or 10W40. Just make sure it's oil with the JASO-MA specification (ie, no added friction modifiers). I think that the Rotella spec'd for diesel engines is what lots of motorcyclists use. There are other bike-specific 40's out there.

Going to 5W means that it's going to come up to working viscosity quicker; absolutely no harm in doing that with synthetic. Going to 40 means that it will flow better, run cooler and lubricate better than 50. 10W50 is spec'd because some idiot might, in theory, run the bike at WFO throttle out in Death Valley in August for a couple hours, going slow, with plain water in his radiator. Don't plan on doing that? Run 40.

As always, let the bike idle for a coupla minutes before you go revving it up. It will thank you in a few years. Too many riders think it doesn't need a warmup because it has FI and will run just fine when it's cold. But, the oil is not warm and is not flowing through the motor yet. Let the thing get warm.
 
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