• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc what is the torque of the nut that holds the water pump pinon on..

eric125

eric125

Husqvarna
A Class
2002 husky wr125 the nut inside the case was loose when i removed it.. i checked the shop book it says 35 foot lbs but not sure if this is the correct part. i posted a picture. if anyone can help me out , unless its just suppose to be finger tight.. its the one i am pointing to in the pictures..

and secondly...underneath the carburetor on the crankcase there is a tube almost like a breather.. what is that for...and should air be-able to move freely in an out of that. i blow air into the tube and it feels like it has resistance..IMG_9229.JPGIMG_9228.JPG
 
First the nut

stick with the torque as described in the book.

I did also put some locktite 242 (The blue one) on this one when I overhauled my engine.

better be sure then sorry.:o


other thing I see is that you have some wear in the fingers of your clutch basket.

not so bad as I had but it does effect the engage and disengage behavior of your clutch.

what you can do at this stage is to file a bit off (but you have to do that carefully that all fingers are the same amount have reduced) till you get a smooth surface on all the fingers. (Be precise if you do this) :oldman:


The hose on your engine block under the carb is to equalize the pressure in your engine and the outside world.

as long it is open its OK

you do need to have a hose on it as that is the protection from water entering your engine this way when you submerge you bike in a ride.

not having it and water enters, you will get in no time white milky troth sputtering out of this hole (not good) :naughty:

then you're up for a complete clean out of the engine and fill it up with new oil.

Robert-Jan
 
R-J van Hulst said:
First the nut

stick with the torque as described in the book.

I did also put some locktite 242 (The blue one) on this one when I overhauled my engine.

better be sure then sorry.:o


other thing I see is that you have some wear in the fingers of your clutch basket.

not so bad as I had but it does effect the engage and disengage behavior of your clutch.

what you can do at this stage is to file a bit off (but you have to do that carefully that all fingers are the same amount have reduced) till you get a smooth surface on all the fingers. (Be precise if you do this) :oldman:


The hose on your engine block under the carb is to equalize the pressure in your engine and the outside world.

as long it is open its OK

you do need to have a hose on it as that is the protection from water entering your engine this way when you submerge you bike in a ride.

not having it and water enters, you will get in no time white milky troth sputtering out of this hole (not good) :naughty:

then you're up for a complete clean out of the engine and fill it up with new oil.

Robert-Jan
Click to expand...


Do you know where I can order a whole new clutch set up? And or get a cheap basket.. The cheaper the better.. Running out of cash. And one of the fingers is broken off of the basket.. (previous owner). So I'm assuming that's not a good thing... Does it still make it rideable, if my fingers aren't to worn down?
 
clutch baskets are in general not cheap.

one finger of it means that the others have to share the same load so each finger will get more pressure and will wear out faster and the risk on damaging another one is bigger.

i would not know what the safety factor would be when designing these baskets but if I would design one, one finger less should still be ride able.

normally you don't loose the fingers with running the engine its more done with handling it wrongly (not using the proper tools to tighten things in the engine and use the basket as a leverage point) or drop it.

if the worn fingers are to bad the plates doesn't disengage completely or smoothly so it means that the clutch is hard to regulate (which can be an annoyance in a very slow technical part of the ride) in case it is still dragging even when you pull it it adds wear on your plates accompanied with extra heat in the engine so spoiling the oil quicker and in very severe cases problem with shifting to neutral.

Probably E bay is the best place to get it for a cheaper price than that they are worth.

Robert-Jan
 
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