• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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250-500cc What gives on 09 WR 250 ( help )

johnnyBgood

johnnyBgood

Husqvarna
B Class
Does anyone know what changes where made in 09 on the wr250 I still cant make mine run like buddies 08 wr250 bikes are exactly the same right down to the fmf powercore slip-on same carb , stock pipe etc... his bike revs so smooth from bottm to top with good over rev and sounds crips and clean , mine on the other hand is a gorilla gobs of down low tork and super fast right up till it runs out of rev,s and still cant get it to to over rev like the 08 wr I will say mine feels stronger . I,ve check for vac leaks , checked reeds , power valves opens cleanly , checked jetting all looks good float height checks good want gives
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. mine sounds like a brute at idle and has sort of a knocking sound sents new at idle and his sounds chirsp like a 2stroke . stock pipe part # is the same.--------- I know husky said they used new exh. in 09 to improve low speed operation is this the differents between the two i dont know or is this just the nature of the 09 a new WR,s any help would be great , I give up
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You perfectly described my 09, gobs of brute torque from the bottom through the middle but at the very top it acts like it runs out of pipe. I don't want to give any of that mid torque up but I am curious why they don't rev out.
 
WoodsRiderParts said:
Any updates on this? I will be toying with mine soon.

Luke
Click to expand...
As I lean mine out on the main it is pulling harder up high. I went to a race fuel pump fuel mix to keep the leaner mixture from pinging. There is still some power there and when I find it all I will post it on the 2 stroke jetting thread.
 
Does it not rev or does the power just flatten out on top? If husky changed the pipe for better low end then it will loose some on top. My KX250 gained a bunch on the low end with a FMF gnarly but it really flattened out the power on top.
 
I was surprised at how lean I had to go on the main to get good power on the top end. On an all stock 09 WR250 I had to go down to a 360 main at 6,000ft.
 
LawnDartMike said:
Does it not rev or does the power just flatten out on top? If husky changed the pipe for better low end then it will loose some on top. My KX250 gained a bunch on the low end with a FMF gnarly but it really flattened out the power on top.
Click to expand...

Mike, if your question is directed at me here is my observation. It does flatten out on top like a pipe when out of the power curve but mine was also turning plugs black and after a few rides would become so hard to start that I would have to replace the plug. The 380 main was close in OK at 600 ft. and cold air but I rode in central MO this weekend at 1200 ft in extremely humid conditions (misting rain) at wide open it was blubbering and missing on top. I think a 370 main is going in on the next trip and maybe even dropping the needle a step. I have not taken it to the point of being too lean on the main and every time I go leaner it gains more on top and the plug looks better. In utopia's earlier post I doubted that a 350 would work unless above 8,000 ft but after riding in MO at a much smaller elevation change I think he is on the right track.
 
Chances are your power valve is not adjusted correctly. A friend raced for Huskie a few years ago in Europe and the power valve was the first adjustment they made.
 
That be true , found my power valve was in the full down position from factory , raised it a few mm things got a little better might need ferther adjustment but I,m sick of messing with it ! I,m running the pwk carb and fuel mix at 50 to 1 and now I,m running a 180 main and it likes it I,m now running richer mains who knows dont make no sense should be going leaner on a 50 to 1 mix,s maybe its due to the exhust port being more open . The bike still runs up to the top of the pipe like a animal the sign,s right off , could be something husky did between 08 and 09 but I cant find it last thing I,m going to do is change to a different reed cage maybe that will help . If this thing didnt handle so well and ride even better it would be gone and back to GasGas , never had a two stroke motor I had to mess with so much change carb , adjust power valves , timing etc..... what the crap .
 
John - Any luck finding the new CDI? Any of the recent tweaks to the motor help out? We'll need to hook up and ride soon. I want you to test out my new suspension. I haven't touched it after Mark fixed me up. It's night and day better but I need another opinion of a few clicker changes... John H
 
This sounds like the same problem I am trying to work through with my '09 WR 250. I have a FMF gnarly with turbinecore 2, also ordered the HSQ jet kit from Hall's and am using that needle in the middle position. Main jet is currently the 430 and air screw is 2 turns out. Mixing at a 40:1 ratio.

Good response and power on the low end but it just seems like it will not rev out at all, acts like it just goes flat like it is running out of pipe and does not have much on top at all.

Has anyone figured this puzzle out yet?
 
first: jet your bike the right way. READ the plug. it look like this?
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/cr-125-2011.16384/page-2
second: is it hitting the rev stop or???
third: gurgle/bulbber = rich. bog/stumble = lean.

don't go messing with PV setting unless you understand what they do and where. start with a stock bike, or as close to stock as possible, and it has to be mechanically perfect/race ready, then get the jetting spot on...then go from there. pipes and ignitions mover power around, more or less. rob peter to pay paul et al.
 
pvduke said:
first: jet your bike the right way. READ the plug. it look like this?
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/cr-125-2011.16384/page-2
second: is it hitting the rev stop or???
third: gurgle/bulbber = rich. bog/stumble = lean.

don't go messing with PV setting unless you understand what they do and where. start with a stock bike, or as close to stock as possible, and it has to be mechanically perfect/race ready, then get the jetting spot on...then go from there. pipes and ignitions mover power around, more or less. rob peter to pay paul et al.
Click to expand...

doesnt seem to be hitting a rev stop, just seems to quit pulling....i guess i need to start over with jetting if that is what i am hearing?
 
not nec start over, just check yer main...use a *new* plug after warming engine, 4-5fth gear, WFO, pull in clutch, chop gas and hit kill sw at same time. read plug that second. i dont know the diff's in port timing, pipe volumes, map diff's etc between those two years, if any. george might know.

after yer sure jetting is good etc...
try a top end pipe, and if that dont make mor over-rev you might not have the porting/timing for it. ignition timing checks to make sure it aint doing something weird too might eliminate a variable. im not sure at what RPM your complaint is so...it might be working as designed i all things are correct and to spec. (PV, map, restrictors removed etc)

it can be frustrating trying to compare two bikes. and if ya got tons of low/mid, good upper mid/ top rush then...what's to beef about?

he might be able to get you on top end, but, you will creeeeam him outta corners and short shutes, that's where the races are won mostly sans baja stuff.

just about every unrestricted mx based 250 i ever rode had at least some upper mid-top hit before it signs off, and, some rev-out more than others, some way more than others- that leads to more top end failures too.

my stock 03-04 Honda CR's had almost no over-rev. they just signed off after a healthy rrrip! and it was almost like hitting the brakes. PC pipes helped a LOT.... but it just moved power around, didnt make more or change my max RPM ceiling and all this over-rev stuff? that's normally used on the track as a cushion so ya dont gotta grab another gear before a jump or next corner. it aint making power there anyways so...grab another gear. braap. plus- if your bike's riddne less in the upper rev's than his, your top end lasts longer.

id be curious to see the difference is RPM/pull range on yours and his, if any. a tach on the bar can do this for you. if they both rev to the same approx RPM (3-400 rpm can seem like a LOT) then bob's yer uncle. his has a diff map, porting, pipe etc....and your's is probably ok. if it slams on the brakes 2-3000 rpm sooner then...well, yer box/map or maybe the PV adjust is off if everything else is as it should be and the factory dyno chart says hey- yer not revving out far enough!

if its making good power everywhere but signs off "too soon" compared to his, but not before it's prescribed RPM ceiling/dyno chart spec's then...i'd rather ride that one...i already got a small bore 125 that i gotta rev the piss outta. and short of having a 500 that pulls like a fighter jet everywhere, a small 2-stroke usually makes great power on one end of the scale or the other.
 
..think i might have found my problem, the arm on the powervalve was not connected (ie. snapped together). i found this after talking with service at halls cycles and he suggested i take the cover off just to make sure it was connected and when i removed the cover it clearly was not connected correctly. i am the first owner of the bike so i assume it has been this way the entire time i've had it. it was too wet this evening to give it a trial run in the yard, can't wait to see how it changes once i get a chance to ride it.
 
i also found out through talking with Hall's that i was actually running the wrong sparkplug. i was using the ngk br8eg, they said that the 'r' meant the plug was a restrictor plug and recommended that i switch to the b8es for better performance.

i havent had a chance yet to ride but am anxious to test out the changes
 
I tried the Hall's recommendation for the non "r" plug and didn't notice a difference. I think your main jet is too rich. Check out Lankydoug's settings!
 
utopia said:
I tried the Hall's recommendation for the non "r" plug and didn't notice a difference. I think your main jet is too rich. Check out Lankydoug's settings!
Click to expand...
I kept going leaner on the main which helped with the top until it got too lean and then it wouldn't pull anywhere past 3/4 throttle. Trust me you will know when it's too lean. I'm going back to the 380-390 range just because it pulls harder clear to 95% throttle where the power is more usable. Flattening out on top may very well be a pipe issue but since I don't get a chance to go 75mph in 5th gear in the woods I'm going to optimize the power where I can use it. Don't get me wrong it would be nice to rev it out like a 125 so if anyone figures out what the deal is wether it be power valve or something else I would like to know so please post it here. BTW I have tried both plugs in 8s and 9s with no noticeable difference.
 
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