• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

What enables the ECU to fire up the engine

ray_ray

ray_ray

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I'm posting this from another site in search of an answer to the guys question on how to enable the engine when out of the bike ...

I am a ME student at ERAU building an FHSAE car, we use a Husqvarna 08 TE 250 engine, and we have a brand new factory wiring harness. I am in the process of getting the engine to start while sitting on our work bench. I believe the thing holding me up is the lack of a fall down sensor. I know the sensor is a potentiometer, but I'm not sure what the ECU is looking for to start the engine. Currently we are getting no signal to any of the relays, so we get no fuel and no spark. We have the owners manual, the service manual, and the work shop manual, and I have yet to find any useful info on the sensor. My part manual says its part number 8000A6774, but the description is just "Plug". I believe I have every other switch bridged/bypassed per the workshop manual, but I've been working on this for a few days now and I'm stumped. Any help would be greatly appreciated as searching the forum for the past hour hasn't returned anything useful.
 
here is a link to the Owner's Manual 2008 TE/TC/TXC 250/450/510

Within it is the schematic- it is a much cleaner schematic than is in my 2009 Workshop manual. This should answer his/her questions really, I mean, they are students of this stuff. I know this sounds like when you ask your dad how to spell a word and he hands you a dictionary....but these guys should know how to read a schematic. For some of us its like looking at the "Matrix" but for a tech or engineer they should see "blonde, brunette, redhead........." in other words the solution....:thumbsup:
Respectfully submitted,
b
 
Yep ... he should be able to go from here ...

If both of the switches (clutch & fallover) are not his mockup, it sounds like it will not stop the bike from starting ... Or did I mis-understand what was said here ..
 
Well the "bike" 08TE250 would have had a plug instead of the fall sensor- otherwise it won't start and the speedo would blink error. Probably don't have a speedo hooked up to see fail codes... The clutch safety switch would have been in the te harness and would have to be hardwired to be a closed circuit. The problem is translating what is or isn't there now as its a motor on a bench... who knows what they didn't do or have connected.. like the coil needs to be gounded properly with all accociated wires- normally its grounded to the frame- there is no frame. So there are alot of things to forget or have go wrong. You really have to have hands on and know what you did or didn't do, exactly.
They should be able to figure it out from the schematic... kinda part of the project I assume. Sounds like an interesting build- I wish them luck.
 
Yes, I'd think one of those switches is giving issues ... He was looking at that plug ... Maybe that clutch switch also as he did not mention it at all ... All that other stuff with the coil should be alot more straight forward ... He has this link now and I told him to send us some pics :)

Thanks!
 
Hey guys, figured I'd post here due to the higher traffic levels.

HUSKYnXJnWI;116168 said:
here is a link to the Owner's Manual 2008 TE/TC/TXC 250/450/510
Click to expand...

The wiring diagrams in that are identical to the ones in our workshop manual. We don't have the speedo anymore. We originally bought the entire bike, I wish we still had it but the frame was sold 2 years ago. The engine rests on a steel stand currently, I have the grounds connected to the stand. I have bridged the clutch, ignition, and start switches as they are in the diagrams, I have also bought resistors to mimic the plug according to specs we got from a dealer, still no signal to the relays. I can fire the starter all day long, but I'm not getting any spark. The main culprit still seems to be the fall-down sensor. I'll be working more on the car tomorrow, so I'll see if I can make any progress.

As promised, here are some pics from 2009 competition, I'll grab some shots of the new designs tomorrow (mainly CAD files right now).

Adding finishing touches to the car the night before competition:
3516619741_5a3f2acf33_b.jpg


Close up of the Polaris rear diff, carbon flexure A-arms, and our electric motor. On this car, the motor was connected to the output shaft via a computer controlled CVT.
3517438208_f9daf461e5_b.jpg


Our team captain explaining our adjustable pedal assembly to a design judge.
3516634117_723ecb4a9f_b.jpg


The pedal assembly, carbon pads mounted on aluminum arms, mounted to the aluminum support frame.
3517452976_a656496e8e_b.jpg


Brake rotor, designed and machined in house, drilled for reduction of unsprung & reciprocating mass.
3517448090_264c2b7701_b.jpg


Tilt table test assures the car is capable of cornering at 1.2 Gs without over-turning.
3517462868_dbd01c26d6_b.jpg


Good shot of the exhaust, transaxle, and radiator. The transaxle was machined in house, it took over 24 hours to make each side.
3517488260_f9db735556_b.jpg


Front with body panels, reinforced fiberglass. You can also see the left capacitor bank. This car utilized 50 1500f capacitors at 1.2V each.
3516681113_ef510a785d_b.jpg


Flat spotting our slicks during the brake lock up test.
3516665675_8853ffd0be_b.jpg
 
Helipos;116309 said:
Are you getting the fuel pump to run?
I assume you still have the key barrel in use?

Cam
Click to expand...

No the fuel pump is not running, it is run by the same relay that powers the injector, the coil, and some other things as well. We do not have the key barrel, just the engine, voltage regulator, ignition relay, the smaller relays, ECU, and the factory wiring harness.

We do have a positive signal from the pump to the gauge cluster via the W/Y wire, which I had assumed was the low fuel light.



Also fixed the broken pic link up there.
 
I know this is pretty obvious, but have you checked the fuses?

I don't see it mentioned here, so it's worth a shot.
 
You got the old wiring for the key shorted correctly?

Yellow skyblue to Brown white
and
Brown to yellow black

What about the start stop switches?
One will be the handlebar stop switch but what the rear stop switch is I dont know.

Make sure the clutch switch is shorted out

You might want to also simulate neutral in the gear position sensor.

Cam
 
The transmission is in neutral, all fuses are good, all switches shorted correctly, including the clutch. I got some variable resistors and set them to the exact resistance for the fall sensor, no signal to the relays.

Whats the rear stop switch? That is not on any of my diagrams.
 
I take it that the engine did run before you started this sweet project ????

Not sure of the model but on the throttle side of the housing it has the starter button and a "KILL" button, also the bike could also have a neutral safety(gear seclector), clutch safety wiring circuits.

The pulse coil in the stator will be the unit sending up the power for the coil

Chow, Carl
 
Lol, yes the engine ran in the car we used last year, but the harness was a mess and we bought an OE one to start fresh. The two wires coming from the stator that don't go to the voltage regulator go to the ECU, but we noticed on the harness for last years car that they re-pinned that bit (Pin 6 on the wiring diagrams) and grounded it to start the engine.
 
FHSAE;116688 said:
The transmission is in neutral, all fuses are good, all switches shorted correctly, including the clutch. I got some variable resistors and set them to the exact resistance for the fall sensor, no signal to the relays.

Whats the rear stop switch? That is not on any of my diagrams.
Click to expand...

I think you should really take the time too look at the electrical diagram and the component numbering.

Page 183 and 184 of the link above. Component 4.

Cam
 
Those are the brake light switches are they not?

They receive power from the relay and send it to the tail light. I don't see how that could interfere with starting the engine.
 
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