Well I couldn't help myself - 1983 500 XC

[Motosportz]

Ordered some EBC grooved front shoes for it today, going to try and make the stock front brake work as well as it can. EBC 803G if anyone is interested.

Q. Might just replace the reeds because it is an old bike but do the Boyesen reeds work well / help running and power (not that I am looking for more :>)

 

[justintendo]

i feel the boyesens are a good oe replacement...i dont think they do anything for performance..
the forks are amazingly simple..its insane they work like they do when you look inside...they always feel like theres no damping when you sit on it or bounce it around...but when in motion they damp ok...you can start at 7-10 wt oil and go thicker if you need more damping...theres a long tool to take them apart, or you can make ur own...with the oil drained out and spring removed you can kinda see what you need..i bought one from phillip that works great. wouldnt be hard to make one tho

 

[Motosportz]

Thanks.

Did some more work on it tonight. The more I work on it the more I appreciate the design. The twin shocks, while making it a bit wide also make the airbox nice. Simple to take out and wash. I painted mine black real quick as I did not like the white. Looks good. Funny how you can see the simple Swedish engineering from simpler times. My single shock water cooled 86 WR400 seems complicated in comparison. So air box cleaned, correct filter and cage installed (what a simple design), exhaust hangers fixed / updated, pipe painted black, lots of fasteners fixed and upgraded. Cleaned the carb, put on flow hoses, new plug. Bike is now tight and complete. Already did the wheel bearings. Need to do the tires for a real ride. Got it kick started. Was not to bad. I choked it at first and I don't think it needed that. Took the choke off and got it started. Then when warm was a 1-3 kick deal. Some kickbacks. Funny bike. Rode it around in the night , saw my neighbor lady in her truck and she rolled down the window and yelled "that's illegal" and I yelled back and said "that's the fun part" and she gave me the thumb's up and drove in her driveway.

Oh, while I had the pipe off looked up the exhaust port (could have almost slipped my head in there :>) and the piston looks good and the bore looks great. Clean and crosshatch. When i had the carb off I could see what look like newer boysen dual stage reeds.

The carb slide looks just like my 125 piston

 

[rancher1]

thanks. Pretty stoked. I've had a lot of big bores (CR480, KX500, WR400, etc.) but this is my first air cooled husky big bore. Love the look of that menacing motor! The more I look at and mess with this bike the less I see it actually needs. Very intact. My air filter and cage should be here today or tomorrow. then I need to ride it and sort it. Would like a skid plate for it. Read you comment on my other post about Drew dialing the shocks, will probably do that at some point soon.

- how much oil do the forks require? Would like to swap the oil out as they feel like they have little actual damping.

- Any of the brake shoes better than others? Want the best ones.

- the swayback bar mounts seem odd. Any handling issues going to straight up (moving the bars well forward) fatbar mounts?

- Clutch actually seems reasonable but are there any cable levers that make it better?

- There is one loose wire under the tank, it is yellow with a connector, is this a 12v feed? IE do these put out power? If so how much?

- Feel like I will be swapping out the kicker for a straighter 610 type if anyone has one they want to let go of.

- going to ride it once for a baseline and then install a Lectron as I love them and want to test and understand them better for vintage applications.

- Rear rim looks like it has a split about half way across, crack or more like a seem split. Is this going to be an issue? Can it be welded successfully (not by me :>)

- anyone make a nice modern looking rear brake peddle?

- HVA-factory makes some really nice footpegs, would like that of something similar. Thoughts? might just mod the stockers but really like big modern pegs.

Thanks all.

Kelly, the yellow wire under the tank is you 12V power, just be sure to use a regulator. They put out good power for a light.

Terry cable made a clutch cable that improved pull (made it easier).

 

[troy deck]

Ordered some EBC grooved front shoes for it today, going to try and make the stock front brake work as well as it can. EBC 803G if anyone is interested.

Q. Might just replace the reeds because it is an old bike but do the Boyesen reeds work well / help running and power (not that I am looking for more :>)

i'v put'em in every husky i'v ever had but the 12 144 thats 5 huskies and several ricers nuttin but some fancy ez pull clutch lever setups and GOOD cables and adding about 12mm to the length of the levers @ the wheel and engine will help the clutch and the brakes alot theres a guy on marks vintage swapmeet that makes super KOOL brake pedals foot pegs and chain guides that look like art

 

[suprize]

You will probably need some damping washers for your forks, they cr*p out at every opportunity, couple of plastic jiggers, get from phil before you tear it down in case they are stuffed. if your 80 - 90 Kg, start at 7.5 weight oil, bottle of 5 and a bottle of 10 mixed. plush on the little impacts but may rebound a bit if your getting high off the ground... if so 10wt will damp it a bit better. there is a thread in the tech section about lining your front hub with sandpaper and lapping in your brakes....I couldn't get the shoes and hub back in once I had the sand paper in...need thinner grit paper... sounds like she is ready for a flogging

 

[troy deck]

i remember a story along time ago in dirtbike about an outfit in NJ called Aljo they relined brake shoes bd used a husky for the test said they were awesome in the wet stuff anybody ever try'em or know if there still around? seem like i read on here about some guy who relined the hub and made the brakes killer too.. or do i need to put the pipe down? oh and the lectron

 

[Motosportz]

The Lectron is a no go for right now as I need to get a different one built. I underestimated the size of the carb. Good lord that thing is huge. The slide looks like the piston out of my 125. It measures 46.7mm

 

[firecrackerkid]

The Lectron is a no go for right now as I need to get a different one built. I underestimated the size of the carb. Good lord that thing is huge. The slide looks like the piston out of my 125. It measures 46.7mm

Most everyone says us a 38mm. You have probably already seen this post, but in case not, check this out.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/38mm-carb-swap-to-500xc.29940/

 

[Motosportz]

Most everyone says us a 38mm. You have probably already seen this post, but in case not, check this out.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/38mm-carb-swap-to-500xc.29940/

Interesting, why is a 38 better? Lectron is building me a 44 But I can't change that as it is not built yet.

 

[Motosportz]

BTW my stock carb has a 320rd main (no ited what RD means) and a 45 pilot. Seems to run OK.

Carb dimensions for anyone that cares is...

Length - 103mm
intake side dia - 52mm
Airbox side dia - 70mm

 

[troy deck]

where d that other lectron thread go that was up there a bit ago i didnt get to it now cant find it??

 

[Motosportz]

where d that other lectron thread go that was up there a bit ago i didnt get to it now cant find it??

there are lots of them, can you be more specific?

Q. Is anyone currently running a Lectron on these old air cooled bikes? Seems like it would be a great upgrade but have not heard much about it.

 

[troy deck]

there are lots of them, can you be more specific?

Q. Is anyone currently running a Lectron on these old air cooled bikes? Seems like it would be a great upgrade but have not heard much about it.

it was up in the little withe box like 20 mins ago your name was on it thought youd slaped a tron on your 500 aready? like you started a new thread on this bike check your content

 

[firecrackerkid]

Interesting, why is a 38 better? Lectron is building me a 44 But I can't change that as it is not built yet.

I got an 84 500xc from one of my brothers. It had a 40mm and a bad intake manifold. I started doing some research and found much of the good info here on this site, go figure . I rounded up a 38 and a bought a billet manifold from Phillip. Upon further inspection I found the case was cracked at one of the head studs so I sent most of the bike to members here. I have some jetting info somewhere but sounds like you are going to be the guinea pig again . Looking forward to the results. Round up an extra head and do the comp release mod. I was lucky enough to fine a 2 hole head for my 390 and it makes a world of difference.

 

[oregonsage]

Interesting, why is a 38 better? Lectron is building me a 44 But I can't change that as it is not built yet.

Hang on to that 38...I may want it for my 84 250 CR

 

[Motosportz]

but sounds like you are going to be the guinea pig again . Looking forward to the results.

A big part of the reason I bought this bike was to do vintage bike Lectron testing first hand. We are now building a 40mm Lectron and i have a pile of metering rods to test.

Round up an extra head and do the comp release mod. I was lucky enough to fine a 2 hole head for my 390 and it makes a world of difference.

Future mod for sure.

 

[oregonsage]

Should help for actual ride-ability, unfortunately Vintage Racing rules tend to frown on these sorts of modifications....


AHRMA Vintage MX (pre 75)
c) CARBURETORS: Flat-slide or Lectron-type and injection-type carburetors are
not permitted. “Power Jet” and “Pumper” type carburetors are not permitted unless
such mechanisms are disconnected or removed. Fuel injection is not permitted.
Period carburetors are encouraged. Smoothbores with concentric float bowls are
not permitted, except where they were fitted as original equipment or supplied as
factory kits on that model motorcycle. Modern replacement smoothbore carburetors
are not permitted.

Post Vintage MX
c) CARBURETORS: Flat-slide or Lectron-type and injection-type carburetors are
not permitted. “Power Jet” and “Pumper” type carburetors are not permitted unless
such mechanisms are disconnected or removed. Fuel injection is not permitted.
Period carburetors are encouraged. Smoothbores with concentric float bowls are
not permitted, except where they were fitted as original equipment or supplied as
factory kits on that model motorcycle. Modern replacement smoothbore carburetors
are not permitted.

 

[troy deck]

Should help for actual ride-ability, unfortunately Vintage Racing rules tend to frown on these sorts of modifications....


AHRMA Vintage MX (pre 75)
c) CARBURETORS: Flat-slide or Lectron-type and injection-type carburetors are
not permitted. “Power Jet” and “Pumper” type carburetors are not permitted unless
such mechanisms are disconnected or removed. Fuel injection is not permitted.
Period carburetors are encouraged. Smoothbores with concentric float bowls are
not permitted, except where they were fitted as original equipment or supplied as
factory kits on that model motorcycle. Modern replacement smoothbore carburetors
are not permitted.

Post Vintage MX
c) CARBURETORS: Flat-slide or Lectron-type and injection-type carburetors are
not permitted. “Power Jet” and “Pumper” type carburetors are not permitted unless
such mechanisms are disconnected or removed. Fuel injection is not permitted.
Period carburetors are encouraged. Smoothbores with concentric float bowls are
not permitted, except where they were fitted as original equipment or supplied as
factory kits on that model motorcycle. Modern replacement smoothbore carburetors
are not permitted.

can you still get the old style lectrons they shoud be legal as you could get one way back in the day remember Vinduro's story about not being aloud to use it on his PE back in tho 70s

 

[Kartwheel68]

there are lots of them, can you be more specific?

Q. Is anyone currently running a Lectron on these old air cooled bikes? Seems like it would be a great upgrade but have not heard much about it.

They are used on Vintage Cross Country bikes quite a bit, but the MX guys dont use them. Typically, bikes with poor low PRM response or with abrupt power delivery, especially piston port engines, are the ones most helped by adding a Lectron. Since Husky's have neither of those problems you dont see Lectrons on them very often.

Should help for actual ride-ability, unfortunately Vintage Racing rules tend to frown on these sorts of modifications....

AHRMA Vintage MX (pre 75)
c) CARBURETORS: Flat-slide or Lectron-type and injection-type carburetors are
not permitted. “Power Jet” and “Pumper” type carburetors are not permitted unless
such mechanisms are disconnected or removed. Fuel injection is not permitted.
Period carburetors are encouraged. Smoothbores with concentric float bowls are
not permitted, except where they were fitted as original equipment or supplied as
factory kits on that model motorcycle. Modern replacement smoothbore carburetors
are not permitted.

Post Vintage MX
c) CARBURETORS: Flat-slide or Lectron-type and injection-type carburetors are
not permitted. “Power Jet” and “Pumper” type carburetors are not permitted unless
such mechanisms are disconnected or removed. Fuel injection is not permitted.
Period carburetors are encouraged. Smoothbores with concentric float bowls are
not permitted, except where they were fitted as original equipment or supplied as
factory kits on that model motorcycle. Modern replacement smoothbore carburetors
are not permitted.

This ONLY applies to Pre '75, Lectron carbs are legal in all AHRMA Post Vintage classes, which is '75-up.