Well, I blew it

[MikeB]

Looking forward to getting the motor back from ZipTy. They tell me that all that happened was a piston seizure, of all things, and everything else in the engine looks perfect. I gave them a blank check to do what they do and will report on the results.

JAM - I really hate to hear it - hope you hurt the engine only a little (and you checkbook too)

 

[bmah]

Really glad to hear that it was not a seriously $$ failure!

 

[JAM]

Looking forward to getting the motor back from ZipTy. They tell me that all that happened was a piston seizure, of all things, and everything else in the engine looks perfect. I gave them a blank check to do what they do and will report on the results.

JAM - I really hate to hear it - hope you hurt the engine only a little (and you checkbook too)

Just got the bike back from the dealer. Thankfully, they covered all the cost to replace the cylinder & piston- only parts of engine damaged before it locked up. There was spot on the top of the piston near the exhaust port that burned, and scored the cylinder. Hope all is well moving forward...

 

[JAM]

Made new banjo bolts from steel. Hope this prevents another loosening... also wire tied, and used some blue Loctite. I still think that the design on other bikes, such as Kawasaki KLX300R is better. You don't need to disturb the banjo bolt to remove the oil filter cover on those type due to the small inlet hole allowing the oil to pass, and allow for a ridged (protected) oil line.

 

[MikeB]

Got my engine back yesterday afternoon
Crank oiling mod, clutch mod, porting with new valve springs, new rod and piston and re-nicasil the cylinder. My oil drain back kit and some misc little parts.
Had time to put the engine back in the frame last night. Hope I remember where everything goes

 

[Nick McCabe]

Is this a potential issue on all years?

 

[Kenneth Webb]

Can anyone explain the crank oiling mod in general terms? I am also thinking of the crank bearing mod, unless it is the same thing, as I will be dual sporting and more than average miles will be on pavement to and from the good stuff. Making sure the bike will live with twenty or thirty miles at speed would be a good move, if it can be done. If the bearing mod will let someone do some super-motarding on a 310 it would more than take care of me, and I wouldn't be opposed to tearing into a brand new (2013) engine to have it done.

First thing I did was Zip Ty's oil return mod, and SS filter waiting to go in on next oil change, along with 0-40 Mobil 1. Off topic, but some HDB guards are also here when I have time to put them on.

Does anyone have any gearing/rpm tables for this bike? Since there is no tach I'm unsure what kind of revs are going on at 55 mph with stock CSS and 47 T rear. Would like to know.

 

[Kenneth Webb]

Went to Gearing Commander and they have data for the '11 TE250/310. Not exactly the same bike but probably close enough for estimation. According to GC I'm at 50% RPM at 55 mph. Doesn't sound too stressful.

 

[Tinken]

As rpm increases, the rod bearing starves for oil as not enough flow increases to match the speed increase. Eventual seize occurs either at the rod bearing, wrist pin or cylinder wall. We have developed a new way of machining the galleries, the piston rod and the bearing it's self to allow more flow.

 

[Kenneth Webb]

Tinken, based on my post above, do you think I am at increased risk to seize the engine? No racing, just trail riding.

 

[Tinken]

That's a really tough question to answer. I would say if you are using 0W40 with an SS filter and you mostly do slow trail riding, you are okay. But if you ride at speed, commute to work or adventure ride on the tarmac for long periods, its probably a good idea. This mod is done all all bikes, not limited to the 310. Yamahas, Kawi, Honda, KTM, all bikes.

 

[Kenneth Webb]

Thanks. I may have to look at this seriously as insurance. I really like the way the 310 handles and would like the flexibility to ride a bit farther than usual without worrying about frying the crank.

 

[MikeB]

She lives

 

[Tinken]

Anxious to hear a ride report...

 

[MikeB]

Thsnks - break in advice?

 

[Tinken]

I like to ride in cycles, 10% first time, 20, then 30 then 40% etc of what you consider full output to be, letting the bike cool in between. Change oil at 30 miles, then 100, then every 300 miles as needed. Use 0W40 from the start if possible.

 

[Mike-AK]

Thanks. I may have to look at this seriously as insurance. I really like the way the 310 handles and would like the flexibility to ride a bit farther than usual without worrying about frying the crank.

A friend of a friend had a TE250 he was using as a commuter that grenaded the bottom end. No doubt due to the oil starvation we are reading about here.

 

[Kenneth Webb]

A friend of a friend had a TE250 he was using as a commuter that grenaded the bottom end. No doubt due to the oil starvation we are reading about here.

'Decided to get my bike fixed by Zip Ty before anything goes wrong. Off to California on Monday to drop off the 310R. Sounds like it's a do it now or do it later for me. They will do the oiling mod and replace the valves so they don't continually stretch. 'Should be plenty durable when they are finished with it!

 

[Mike-AK]

Anybody know what the total bill would be for the oiling mod, clutch basket mod, and porting for a 2012 TE310? Do the 2012's need the valve work?

 

[MikeB]

Anybody know what the total bill would be for the oiling mod, clutch basket mod, and porting for a 2012 TE310? Do the 2012's need the valve work?

Somewhere around $900 .... my understanding is that the 12's stand to benefit more from a little port work than the red heads.