• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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125-200cc WB165 auto clutch with LHRB, good idea?

Palito

Husqvarna
AA Class
I currently ride/race a 2009 WR300 with an Auto clutch. For the past 2 years I have been using a Left Hand Rear Brake (LHRB) control on the bars with the foot brake pedal removed. It took one race to get used to it, and I would never go back to a foot controlled rear brake again...way more control by hand than foot.

Last year I restored my old 1986 430 Automatic, again with a LHRB. It is totally awsome.

I am well into my mid-life crisis mode (I turn 50 next month) and I have raced and riden dirt bikes my whole life and have never owned a small bore race bike. I was thinking of a WB165, I can't see myself on just a 125.

I don't want to go back to a foot brake and have to adjust back and forth between my bikes.
Soo..my question is, (maybe it has been covered here already), can a WB165 be riden off-road with an Auto-clutch and LHRB without having to have a manual clutch? I realize gear selection will be way more criticle on a smaller bike than my 300, but is the clutch required coming out of corners, climbing hills, lifting the front over obsacles etc.??

Next question which Auto-clutch would be best for this application..Rekluse EXP or EFM? I currently run the EFM in my 300, it is the 4th bike this clutch has been in. I love it, I have never had to make any adjustments and it and has always worked flawlessly.

BTW, my type of riding is tight woods eastern Hare Scramble and Enduros.

Thanks for any input or comments.

Paul.
 
I have rode a setup with the Rekluse LHRB and the clutch lever and it seamed fine to me. That way you could keep the clutch lever if you want/need to.
 
Paul I have a rekluse out of my 165 that I will be happy to sell you. Not sure I should because I might be racing against you next year. Lol
 
I have ridden one setup like that. Works good once you get used to it. Thank said I dont really like Autoclutches on 125's based bikes, just takes away to much of the snap for me.
 
Paul I have a 2008 Husky CRWB165 with the EXP and love the combo. The 165 has so much power I went back to a 50 (had a 52) rear sprocket and could probably go to a 48/49 and be happy. I don't ride really big hills but I have never had to pull in and slip the clutch to climb anything around here. I can just putt right on up in 2/3 gears. Heck I sometimes forget the bike has a clutch. I've never tried the LHRB deal but think I would like it too. I'm 54 now and the power the WB165 has is more than enough for my 200+ lbs especially in the woods. I picked up my EXP new for $375.00 a few months back. It was an easy install and trouble free to date.
 
I just recently did the auto clutch + lhrb on my 165. Awesome, I question why I didn't do it sooner. For play/trail riding, can't beat it. I'm not the best rider out there and don't always make it up stuff on the first go. Being able to have both feet down and hold both brakes at the same time is amazing. Same for if you have fallen and are trying to get back up since the bike doesn't engine brake with the auto clutch any more.

It does sound like a side by side though :lol:


I'm using the old style lhrb system with the Magura master + clutch override. I don't really care for the mountain bike master, doesn't seem like it would be strong/tough enough to live on a dirt bike.
 
Paul I have a rekluse out of my 165 that I will be happy to sell you. Not sure I should because I might be racing against you next year. Lol
Nice to hear from you, Can't wait to go racing next year!

I take it that you see it as an advantage, that's good. I don't have a bike yet just considering it at this point.
The weather really sucked this fall, otherwise I would have liked to meet up with you to try out your 165 if it were possible. It's just that all the reports here make the WB165 really intriguing at this point in life.

Thanks,
Paul.
 
The drawback to the Rekluse clutch is that you have to remove plates from the stack and the EFM you don't. The 165 produces way more torque and horsepower so having all the plates is important. I had a RevLoc Dyna ring which is similar to the Rekluse and it slipped. I now have an EFM which works great.
I like my LHRB too.
 
Which lhrb did you use for your 300? Only one i found requires me to change my rear master assembly(sorry for hijack)
 
Which lhrb did you use for your 300? Only one i found requires me to change my rear master assembly(sorry for hijack)

Walt came up with a way to use the stock cylinder. He tapped the reservoir port for pipe thread and plumbed the handlebar MC to the port. I have that cylinder on my 610.
 
I have been riding with the LHRB/auto clutch combination for years now and can't imagine not having it at this point. I have had it on the 165's since day one. I have tried the Rekluse exp and couldn't get it adjusted right for "Me". No matter what combination of springs it would either slip and be able to completely disengage or it would not slip but was essentially a standard clutch with no disengagement. It might just have been my particular unit and Rekluse was great by refunding my money. I have had years of flawless results and operation from my EFM auto clutches. Until Rekluse makes a core exp for the husky 125 clutch(probably not going to happen), I will stick with the EFM.

I was also skeptical of the Rekluse LHRB kit but it has been very good and taken a beating and worked flawlessly. I understand those who don't want to make the switch to an auto clutched bike because once you do get acclimated to the use of the LHRB, you will not want to go back. The rear brake/wheel control of the hand lever is just light years better than the foot pedal. I keep the foot pedal as at times it is usefull but as a rule it doesn't get used a lot.

There are quite a few riders out there with the 165/LHRB/auto clutch combination. It is definitely an easy bike to ride and for long periods of time without fatiguing. If you are a fast rider there are advantages to a normal clutch but I just feel that that time is made up with the better rear brake control. JMO
 
I showed up with my 144 Rekluse and LHRB (no foot brake) after riding my similarly equipped 250 earlier in the season. After the race, there were a few guys over to inspect my bike, wondering how I had got so fast. The bike worked great for me in the Ontario conditions.
 
Nice to hear from you, Can't wait to go racing next year!

I take it that you see it as an advantage, that's good. I don't have a bike yet just considering it at this point.
The weather really sucked this fall, otherwise I would have liked to meet up with you to try out your 165 if it were possible. It's just that all the reports here make the WB165 really intriguing at this point in life.

Thanks,
Paul.

+ 1

There will be a WB165 in my future sometime next year, I am also very intrigued.
 
I have been riding with the LHRB/auto clutch combination for years now and can't imagine not having it at this point. I have had it on the 165's since day one. I have tried the Rekluse exp and couldn't get it adjusted right for "Me". No matter what combination of springs it would either slip and be able to completely disengage or it would not slip but was essentially a standard clutch with no disengagement. It might just have been my particular unit and Rekluse was great by refunding my money. I have had years of flawless results and operation from my EFM auto clutches. Until Rekluse makes a core exp for the husky 125 clutch(probably not going to happen), I will stick with the EFM.

I was also skeptical of the Rekluse LHRB kit but it has been very good and taken a beating and worked flawlessly. I understand those who don't want to make the switch to an auto clutched bike because once you do get acclimated to the use of the LHRB, you will not want to go back. The rear brake/wheel control of the hand lever is just light years better than the foot pedal. I keep the foot pedal as at times it is usefull but as a rule it doesn't get used a lot.

There are quite a few riders out there with the 165/LHRB/auto clutch combination. It is definitely an easy bike to ride and for long periods of time without fatiguing. If you are a fast rider there are advantages to a normal clutch but I just feel that that time is made up with the better rear brake control. JMO
Walt, I think you got a bum one. We have three and they work perfectly. Switched to ATF though, not much slipping going on at all... they change engagement characteristics easily with two or three clicks on the cable adjuster knob. We like them set to come on quickly.

I have an EFM on my TM. It works great, too!
 
Walt, I think you got a bum one. We have three and they work perfectly. Switched to ATF though, not much slipping going on at all... they change engagement characteristics easily with two or three clicks on the cable adjuster knob. We like them set to come on quickly.

I have an EFM on my TM. It works great, too!

Interesting..
What kind of ATF?
 
Which lhrb did you use for your 300? Only one i found requires me to change my rear master assembly(sorry for hijack)
On my WR300 I have a Magura master on the bars with a custom hose directly to the rear caliper, I have completely removed the foot pedal and master down there. I just figured it would be too confusing having two controls for rear braking, so I went cold turkey on giving up the foot pedal completely. Also it was an easier install.
I also have a little shorty clutch lever under the LHRB lever, but only use it on dead engine starts to keep the revs up in 2nd gear. With the Auto clutch the 300 will easily pull 15/48 gearing giving the tranny more of a wide ratio=WR
On the '86 Auto I wanted the same setup, but they quit selling the Magura brake fluid master so I used a Brembo unit with the hot start lever as the Drive/nuetral control and I am able to get decent dead engine starts. I'm getting off topic here but the 430 Auto project developement took a huge leap forward with a 38mm billet Smart Carb installed. Hoping SC isn't forbidden to mention on CH.
 
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