• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc WB 165 Kick starter ?

GARACERX

GARACERX

Husqvarna
A Class
I read somewhere that there may be a longer kick starter for a 125 which could make starting my
165 easier? I hesitate to modify (cut and extend) my stocker, If it failed it would ruin my day!
 
I tried an elongated kicker, and it didn't work out.

I sectioned a stock kicker vertically along the shaft for about three inches, removing the top. I did the same to a KX250 kicker shaft, removing the bottom. I filed the bejeebers out of both shafts to get them to mate with a minimum of gap. I took it to a guy with a TIG welder, who put them together. The end result was about three inches longer than the stocker. It came right up to the bottom of the tank.

It lasted 10 kicks, and it didn't even start the bike once!

Reasons for the disappointment? The weld job didn't really penetrate aluminum shafts very far. The broken section looked more like a solder than a weld. Second, the longer kicker wouldn't spin the motor fast enough to catch. My 165, a 2012 WR with a RB Designs modded TMXX carb, takes a FAST slap of a kick to get it to start. The long kicker wouldn't spin the motor fast enough.

My 165 has never been a very good starter, but my technique makes it start well enough.

1. Prop the bike against a tree
2. Stand on left peg
3. Put heel on kicker pedal
4. Kick hard, fast and rapidly 2 to 5 times

If starting a hare scramble, I bring a step stool for my left foot to stand on. 2 to 5 kicks and if I'm lucky, I'm not the last guy to the first corner.

If I don't have a tree or a foot stool, I fold out the kicker, raise my foot up, and SLAP the kicker with my heel. I literally start the kick motion several inches above/forward of the kicker pedal, landing my heel as square as possible on the pedal, and kicking down so the ball of my foot land on the peg.

My 165 almost never starts with just one kick. It's usually between 2 and 5, no matter if cold or hot. One of these days, I'll try a Lectron and see if it starts easier. I have used this 165 top end with a 38mm PWK on my previous 2008 CR 125, and it wasn't any easier to start. Reading into all the reviews of the 165, I have the feeling my case is somewhat isolated. I wonder whether it's just a lackluster leg, my amateur jetting (in)ability, or something else. Once running, my 165 runs superb, no stalling, with awesome power. But I do wish it were easier for me to start.

I guess what I'm trying to say here is don't bother with a longer kicker!
 
dfeckel said:
I tried an elongated kicker, and it didn't work out.

I sectioned a stock kicker vertically along the shaft for about three inches, removing the top. I did the same to a KX250 kicker shaft, removing the bottom. I filed the bejeebers out of both shafts to get them to mate with a minimum of gap. I took it to a guy with a TIG welder, who put them together. The end result was about three inches longer than the stocker. It came right up to the bottom of the tank.

It lasted 10 kicks, and it didn't even start the bike once!

Reasons for the disappointment? The weld job didn't really penetrate aluminum shafts very far. The broken section looked more like a solder than a weld. Second, the longer kicker wouldn't spin the motor fast enough to catch. My 165, a 2012 WR with a RB Designs modded TMXX carb, takes a FAST slap of a kick to get it to start. The long kicker wouldn't spin the motor fast enough.

My 165 has never been a very good starter, but my technique makes it start well enough.

1. Prop the bike against a tree
2. Stand on left peg
3. Put heel on kicker pedal
4. Kick hard, fast and rapidly 2 to 5 times

If starting a hare scramble, I bring a step stool for my left foot to stand on. 2 to 5 kicks and if I'm lucky, I'm not the last guy to the first corner.

If I don't have a tree or a foot stool, I fold out the kicker, raise my foot up, and SLAP the kicker with my heel. I literally start the kick motion several inches above/forward of the kicker pedal, landing my heel as square as possible on the pedal, and kicking down so the ball of my foot land on the peg.

My 165 almost never starts with just one kick. It's usually between 2 and 5, no matter if cold or hot. One of these days, I'll try a Lectron and see if it starts easier. I have used this 165 top end with a 38mm PWK on my previous 2008 CR 125, and it wasn't any easier to start. Reading into all the reviews of the 165, I have the feeling my case is somewhat isolated. I wonder whether it's just a lackluster leg, my amateur jetting (in)ability, or something else. Once running, my 165 runs superb, no stalling, with awesome power. But I do wish it were easier for me to start.

I guess what I'm trying to say here is don't bother with a longer kicker!
Click to expand...
One thing I have found that helps is to slow kick it through twice. Just fast enough to cause a couple of slow pulses through the carb. Now one solid fast stab and it is running first kick. This is my cold start method. When warm with the Lectron it is one simple quick kick everytime. I used to use the cold start method with my RB mikuni for all starting, and it was one or at most 2 kicks. I don't know, try it but if there is one thing I know about the Husky tiddlers is that no two are exactly the same.
 
cold start similar to Walt's, and I learned this from Kelly:

Check float bowl to make sure it's full of fuel (Love the lectron), or lean it if you don't have a lectron until it starts pissing.
Click it into second, get on it, and roll it forward and back a few times to get the fuel flowing, and one sharp kick and she's usually buzzing!
 
don't really see the need for a longer kick starter.

in 125 trim you could start it with your hand.
in 165 set up I can't do that anymore but with the leg is still a piece of cake comparing with other bike I had in the past.

Robert-Jan
 
Mine will start in second gear with clutch in. Great for dead engine race starts. Lectron works great but bike always did start great as 165.
 
Yes..if I stand up high its ok, if I stall while riding, everyone is long gone before I start it. jetting seems perfect while running.
It starts best hot with about 1/2 throttle. If i dont really stab it hard and fast , it only spins once and wont start. Wondering if lectron will improve starting, I do race HS and always get good starts with my other bikes..this one is so wonderful but still dont want to start from the back...
I only have about 5 hrs on the 165 kit, maybe it will improve with time?
off topic; what is spec on float level (and how to measure) stock carb float level ? Its diffrent than most..
 
Speaking on starting,my wb165 lites up one kick when hot and the only thing is I only need my choke on my Lectron for a second when cold but my choke knob wont stay up on it,s own.pops down each time,does anyone else have this problem?
 
Speaking on starting,my wb165 lites up one kick when hot and the only thing is I only need my choke on my Lectron for a second when cold but my choke knob wont stay up on it,s own.pops down each time,does anyone else have this problem?
 
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