• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

water pump seal replacement??

vtskier

vtskier

Husqvarna
AA Class
My oil is a bit cloudy and smacks of coolant mixing in. I did just replace a worn impeller so I am keeping a close eye on things.

Can I replace the seal behind the impeller with out removing the shaft? Or do you need to take everything out to press the seal out and in?

Also, how much damage would a small amount of coolant cause mixed in the oil? Is this something that could wait until winter to fix?
 
vtskier said:
My oil is a bit cloudy and smacks of coolant mixing in. I did just replace a worn impeller so I am keeping a close eye on things.

Can I replace the seal behind the impeller with out removing the shaft? Or do you need to take everything out to press the seal out and in?

Also, how much damage would a small amount of coolant cause mixed in the oil? Is this something that could wait until winter to fix?
Click to expand...

If it is the seal and not a head gasket then yes you have to remove the shaft to press out the seal. I did it about 3 months ago. It's a pretty easy job if you don't have to re do the timing. You would be better off making sure it definitely is the WP seel first though. If it definitely is the seal then get onto it sooner rather than later.

Is your overflow bottle putting out a small amount of coolant every now and then?
 
duggoey said:
If it is the seal and not a head gasket then yes you have to remove the shaft to press out the seal. I did it about 3 months ago. It's a pretty easy job if you don't have to re do the timing. You would be better off making sure it definitely is the WP seel first though. If it definitely is the seal then get onto it sooner rather than later.

Is your overflow bottle putting out a small amount of coolant every now and then?
Click to expand...
It might be spitting some out from time to time. Does that mean head gasket? uhgg!
 
vtskier said:
It might be spitting some out from time to time. Does that mean head gasket? uhgg!
Click to expand...
I don't necessarily think so. I had spitting/dripping coolant from the bottle and water in the oil and a compression test showed the gasket and bore/piston were fine. I found my old seal to be quite hard and didn't offer much resistance when rotating the shaft. I felt this was a sign of a poor seal. The new seal was softer in the middle and was very tight on the shaft.
 
Did you do a leak down or compression test? With auto decompression, I have always wondered if one can get an accurate compression test?
 
vtskier said:
Did you do a leak down or compression test? With auto decompression, I have always wondered if one can get an accurate compression test?
Click to expand...
Leak down, though I thought they were the same thing. Introduce compressed air into the cylinder and time how long it holds for basically. I think it held ~100 psi. A shop can do it for pretty cheap, its a simple operation.

Also, not sure if the auto-decompressor works like that, and you normally do the leakdown test at TDC/compression anyway
 
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