• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Water in oil

ks9mm

ks9mm

Husqvarna
AA Class
what are the possible ways for water get in to the engine oil on the 300? was changing oil after yesterdays ride and it's not looking good...


we did have some deep water crossing and I do wash my bike often...also, combined with yesterday overheat and low water in the radiators, I am thinking I might have a problem..
 
Head leak would not cause water to enter the transmission, but a leaking waterpump seal would.
 
Not terribly. I took a peek at the parts diagram. I would check the bearing behind the seal. just to be sure that it is not damaged. Looks like you would just need to replace the small o ring behind the spacer and the seal in front of the bearing in the case. You just have to make sure that you get the seal installed in the right direction.
 
I had (have?) the same problem, When I bought the bike I checked the oil and it was grey, changed it and in the next two rides or so grey again.... I've changed the rubber-seal from the power valve actuator arm and fitted the new one with some silicone. But I think the real problem was the plastic 'L' from the transmission breather hose, it was loose letting humidity in I think, I sealed it with some gasket sealer and now It's much better, checked the oil last day and it still has some himidity in, probably remaining from before.. I'm planning to extend this breather hose up to the tank and than back down, some water crossings can be deeper than that breather tube letting moisture direcly into the transmission.

What about simply plug that breather hole ? My other 2t bikes didn't had one ...
 
most likely water pump seal,just done mine yesterday.remember the impeller is left hand thread righty aint tighty lol. i heated my impeller up first was alot easier to undo.
 
My impeller came out very easy. Changed seal last night. Everything else looks new..

I am only missing gasket for left Powervalve cover to put it all back together. Can I use gasket maker for that one?
 
Also, while I am testing it, instead of putting expensive coolant, can I just put water in it? Or auto antifreeze?
 
ks9mm said:
Also, while I am testing it, instead of putting expensive coolant, can I just put water in it? Or auto antifreeze?
Click to expand...
Don't use standard auto antifreeze, because it contains silicates that can wear out your seals and o rings really fast.
 
so..replacing just Oring did not fix the problem it seems...after filling up yesterday, coolant level is down again, my guess its in the transmission again. will check later tonight. I called Halls for the actual Seal that rides on the top of the bearing and another oring and all the necessary parts and he said 6-8 weeks for those, backordered.

so, the question is.. what do I do now..just use water in radiator and change oil before and after every ride and ride as usual? I am switching to cheap Rotella T 15-40 as per Rekluse recommendation anyhow.. $12 per gallon..

any other dealer that's known to have large stocks of parts?
 
you could try getting the correct size seal from a bearing and seal shop? providing you still have your old one to measure up against
 
ks9mm said:
so..replacing just Oring did not fix the problem it seems...after filling up yesterday, coolant level is down again, my guess its in the transmission again. will check later tonight. I called Halls for the actual Seal that rides on the top of the bearing and another oring and all the necessary parts and he said 6-8 weeks for those, backordered.

so, the question is.. what do I do now..just use water in radiator and change oil before and after every ride and ride as usual? I am switching to cheap Rotella T 15-40 as per Rekluse recommendation anyhow.. $12 per gallon..

any other dealer that's known to have large stocks of parts?
Click to expand...

That's what I always did ... It's the power of a 2t over a 4t bike and just about any oil will work in the tranny on a 2t...

But I did not have a rekluse :( ... So you make the call.
--

Sorry but I can't quite follow your issue ... It is NOT the water pump seal?
 
When I took it
ray_ray said:
That's what
--

Sorry but I can't quite follow your issue ... It is NOT the water pump seal?
Click to expand...
ray_ray said:
That's what I always did ... It's the power of a 2t over a 4t bike and just about any oil will work in the tranny on a 2t...

But I did not have a rekluse :( ... So you make the call.
--

Sorry but I can't quite follow your issue ... It is NOT the water pump seal?
Click to expand...


I am really not sure what caused it at this time. When i took it all apart, seal and oring looked just fine. I replaced oring and have seal coming in next week. Also, I sealed plastic vent connector.

I put fresh oil yesterday and rode around for 10 min and then dumped the oil. It looked ok and coolant level did not drop.. So I will just ride and continue to monitor this issue..
 
ks9mm said:
I am really not sure what caused it at this time. When i took it all apart, seal and oring looked just fine. I replaced oring and have seal coming in next week. Also, I sealed plastic vent connector.

I put fresh oil yesterday and rode around for 10 min and then dumped the oil. It looked ok and coolant level did not drop.. So I will just ride and continue to monitor this issue..
Click to expand...

The dirt gods are favorable towards you today!

FYI: Sometimes my radiator fluid is a little low caused by the overflow hose spitting out water when I got the engine a little too hot ...
 
Kyle Tarry said:
Do cars not have seals and o-rings? I have always run auto antifreeze in my bikes...
Click to expand...
I've just read many articles and warnings not to use the standard old style green stuff in bikes. I heard that Honda had a problem with their seals and water pumps when people used car coolant in their bikes. I used to use the standard automotive coolant in all my bikes, and never had a problem with it, but now I use Honda Proline coolant in all my bikes. It looks like the car stuff, but claims to have no silicates in it.
 
Dirtdame, can you send links to some of these articles? I'd like to see if this is something I should be concerned about. Right now I am not too worried, as the cooling system components on cars and bikes are pretty similar, but it would be good to know if I was missing something...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top