• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Warp9 rims for TE630

N

NVR2L8

Husqvarna
AA Class
OK so I ordered the warp9 rims for my TE 630. I made the purchase through the aprts department at Malcolm Smith. Here is what i found out after recieving them.
Lessons Learned
1. Warp9 does not make a TE 630 specific wheel set
2. Warp9 rims for Husky's do not support the magentic speedo set up. Warp9 recommends purchasing a rare earth magnet and gluin it to the rotor.
3. Because they do not mak a TE 630 specific set, the rear rotor they send is 250MM and does not fit on the bike, the rotor strikes the caliper and the axle won't line up.
4. Not sure about this but when I called Warp9 they new already they had sen the wrong front brake adapter which goes back to LL #1.
5. Customer service for Warp9 is pretty good when I called they immediately offered to send the correct adapter. We'll have to see about the rear rotor, I've given them the correct sizing we'll have to see how they handle.

I'll post more tomorrow.
 
Frustrating, to be sure. Hang in there...you'll get it sort outed and you'll love riding the TE with SM wheels.

But...let us know if you get the front end wobblies at 75+mph. I've tried lots of things, but my front end gets very skittish at 65-70, and goes into full-on tankslap approaching 80. Not that I ride around at 80, but I was thinking of doing a track day. Can't do it with the thing handling like this. And, even a little lightness at 65 can be hair-raising on choppy freeway, or in the rain or crosswind. If I can't settle it down, I think I'll re-lace the front with a 19" rim.
 
ContraHusky said:
Frustrating, to be sure. Hang in there...you'll get it sort outed and you'll love riding the TE with SM wheels.

But...let us know if you get the front end wobblies at 75+mph. I've tried lots of things, but my front end gets very skittish at 65-70, and goes into full-on tankslap approaching 80. Not that I ride around at 80, but I was thinking of doing a track day. Can't do it with the thing handling like this. And, even a little lightness at 65 can be hair-raising on choppy freeway, or in the rain or crosswind. If I can't settle it down, I think I'll re-lace the front with a 19" rim.
Click to expand...

Yes ... I had that wobble! Tried everything. `Phoned the importer (Zupin) and they at one time and another advised the exact opposite. So tried lifting the front forks and then the rear shock. Changed the tyre pressure etc. etc. etc.

Then went to a tyre specialist and had the wheels very carefully balanced. That worked!! Wobble gone (well practically gone although I can still sometimes feel it minutely over certain types of road surface at higher speeds). Have come to the conclusion that the bike´s geometry is ideal for what it was designed to do ... but not for high speed motorway cruising ... which I don´t do much of anyway. At high speeds (max), the air flow takes my head off after any length of time.
 
I've had my SMS into the triple digits and it was still stable, but with no fairings and a dual-sport helmet you don't wanna keep that up for long...
 
The SMS has a different geometry than the TE (ride heights front and rear are different). That would solve the problem.
 
RDTCU said:
I'm aware, but dropping the rear with SM rims should help fix your problem, right?
Click to expand...
Dropped it as far as I dare...120mm of sag. It's downright droopy. Then I would need to crank the preload back up when I put on the TE wheels...starts to be too much trouble.

I think I'll just go with the 19. It will handle up to the limits of my skills anyway, and I'll get the more stable highway manners.
 
Just got back from my first ride with the SM set up, for those of you that know the SD area I'm in Carmel Mountain. I took Highland Valley Rd. off pomerado to Bandy Canyon across to the 78, up the 78 into Ramona where I caught the 67 back to Archie Moore Rd. then back to Highland Valley and back to Pomerado all together it's a 52 mile ride. Good times. The bike handled perfectly while I was not cruising at these speeds I did hit mid 70's several times and 83 once. I never felt any wobble or unstablness (sp?). Cruising up the 67 at 65-70ish is no problem at all bike is very stable. The bike was set up at Malcolm Smith and has felt fine with both the dual sport set up and now the SM set up. The SM wheels were mounted and balanced by GP Motorsports. I'm 6'1" 230 pounds (BAN). Before the ride I took the time to tighten all the spokes, then about 15 miles into the ride wepulled oof and I tightended them again and thn again once I got home. At home I thnk there was maybe two or three front spokes that had not seated themselves but the back was fine. Warp9 says to tighten to 60 inchpounds bu I don't have or knw anyone that has a torque spoke wrench, they're very expensive. The differnce between the two types sof tires and rims on the street is night and day, even with all of the issues I'm happy with my decision to purchase the SM set up but I would say for my type of riding the SM rotors is not necessary. Here's some ppics of the bike with and without the SM set up.

SDC11756.jpg
SDC11757.jpg
 
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organ donor said:
Yes ... I had that wobble! Tried everything. `Phoned the importer (Zupin) and they at one time and another advised the exact opposite. So tried lifting the front forks and then the rear shock. Changed the tyre pressure etc. etc. etc.

Then went to a tyre specialist and had the wheels very carefully balanced. That worked!! Wobble gone (well practically gone although I can still sometimes feel it minutely over certain types of road surface at higher speeds). Have come to the conclusion that the bike´s geometry is ideal for what it was designed to do ... but not for high speed motorway cruising ... which I don´t do much of anyway. At high speeds (max), the air flow takes my head of after any length of time.
Click to expand...

I had the wobble at 65 getting scary over 75. Dropped the tire pressure to I think 25/25 and it was fine to 75+ (it came with 32/32). Since then I had the tires balanced, they had no weights whatsoever when I picked up the bike. Because

I am short I had dropped the forks in front just over half an inch before I first rode the bike, so that definitely is not a cure. Funny thing about the geometry, I believe the 630 has a LONGER wheelbase than the 610 which should prove more

stable I should think. But I never had any headshake on my 610 regardless of tire brand, tire pressure, suspension setting or luggage load. Go figure. My KLR was stable at 98 MPH (107 indicated, WFO) fully loaded and stock tires. But

any other kind of semi-knobby tire it got the shakes at 80-85 loaded. Without luggage it was stable at any speed. So, maybe a higher rear suspension setting helps. But balancing the front seems important and higher pressure seems

to make the front bounce around more. On a new bike, head bearings should be in adjustment but might be worth looking at, I have heard too tight is as bad as too loose, ditto the front fork pinch bolts can cuase handling gremlins if too

tight, per the guy that preps Jonah Street's Dakar bike (SuperPlush, SF).
 
Code: 
... ditto the front fork pinch bolts can cuase handling gremlins if too tight, per the guy that preps Jonah Street's Dakar bike (SuperPlush, SF).
Which bolts are the "front fork pinch bolts?"

I believe they are the bolts that "pinch the triple clamps together against the front forks. I think though that over tightening the stearing head or providing to much/undertightening or not providing enough overtightening clearance in the stearing bearings would probably contribute to control issues.
 
Well, I can't for the life of me figure how the triple clamp bolts could possibly affect handling. That's not a moving part, like head bearings. It just holds the fork tubes in place, which is usually a good thing.
 
ContraHusky said:
Well, I can't for the life of me figure how the triple clamp bolts could possibly affect handling. That's not a moving part, like head bearings. It just holds the fork tubes in place, which is usually a good thing.
Click to expand...

That misconception comes from the belief that overtightening the triples to the fork will in some way pinch them and restrict the movement of the cartridge or stanchion.:rolleyes: It may have been a problem with the standard forks, and not with the UD forks these days...but that's pure speculation. I highly doubt "overtightening" the clamps would do any damage, aside from stripping the threads on the clamp itself.

Having said that, it has been proven on the track that looser triple bolts will allow slightly more flex if you have a very rigid frame. Some guys racing later model R6's had good results by doing that, and "tuning" their chassis so to speak. Then again it was purely an individual preference. But racing is racing and tenths count every where you can find them
 
Looking at the pictures, did you take the rotors off the TE wheels and put them on the Warp9? Everything else fitted fine?
 
Hi Guys, I've had my TE630 now for 1 year and 3 months and 14,000 k's on the speedo .I to have a sumo setup that I enjoy very much .I have to agree that the TE works great on the street tires . I am using the stock size front rotor and would love to put a bigger front rotor on the bike.Brake fade is scary with the stock rotor/caliper on the street. Has anyone found a supplier that makes a adapter to run a larger front rotor ?
Sorry for the thread hijack ....and oh ya , the warp 9 wheel set looks sweet !

KP
 
Finally got to go on another ride today. I had to stick with the stock rotors so far Warp 9 nor Malcolm Smith have made an effort to correct the error. Warp 9 sent me a new adapter but for the life of me I can't figure it out, unless I need to supply my own caliper bolts????? I'm going to call Warp 9 again tomorrow se if I can't get some satisfaction. I spoke to them last week and they said they absolutely do not make a set up for th 630 but they will if they can get all the specs they need. I offered to provide them but have not heard back from them.

Jumped on the freeway today trying to take it easy during break in but hit 80ish for awhile, at 75-85 it was hitting 4950 to 5300 RPMS with a 42 T rear sproket. Are those RPMS to high I'm thinking it's probably a little for long distance cruising??? I was only at that speed for a couple miles. Please any input is appreciated. I have 360 miles on he ODO. It's my first new bike I've been told keep it under 55 and I've also been told you can run it as fast as you like just try to very the RPMs, I'm trying a middle of the road approach. I go over 55 but only for short distances and I try as hard as possible to very the RPM ranges. Any thoughts??
 
For what its worth, I thought the owners manual said to keep it below 5K rpm for at least (I think) 1000 miles.

At least make sure you have changed your oil by now.
 
Owners manual says to (1) avoid long stretches at a single RPM; and (2) avoid high rpms in low gears. It says nothing about a 5k rpm limit...

5k rpm at 70mph -- this motor can do that for years and years...easy peasy...
 
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