• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Warp 9 rear wheel fits 2009 WR125 but not 2014 CR125

G

geastman

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have a 2014 CR125. I bought an 18" Warp 9 rear wheel from a forum member who used it on his 2009 WR125.

When I mount it on my bike, it is fine until I tighten the axle nut. When I tighten, something binds. Initially I thought it was too short a center tube leading to pressure on bearings. When I removed the chain guide and brake pads to look more closely, I realized the actual problem - the rear disk is binding on the caliper mount.

The disk should be centered in a channel in the caliper mount. There is not a lot of clearance - disk is 4mm thick, channel is 6mm. All is well with the OEM wheel.

With Warp 9 wheel and axle nut finger tight, there is effectively zero clearance on the inboard/left side of the disk. The full 2mm clearance is on the right side of disk. As I tighten the axle nut, the disk starts to bind on the caliper:

binding.jpg

The arrow in this photo more clearly shows the surface that binds against disk:

caliper2.jpg

And disk is straight; it binds all around.

Everything I have read suggests the wheels should be compatible, so I am puzzled. It looks as though the disk needs to be spaced 1 to 1.5mm further out for my bike.

I am working with Warp 9 folk but wonder if anyone else has seen this problem and has a confirmed solution.

I wondered if the caliper had changed between 2009 and 2014, which might explain things. From parts catalog at Halls it is the same part number for assembly. Oddly, the picture in catalog does not match reality. From catalog:

2014caliper.jpg

and the actual caliper;

actualcaliper.jpg

Not even close - catalog image has the slot on the caliper mount, while it is actually on the swingarm. I assume part number is updated and accurate, with image stale. But who knows...
 
2009 to 2014 125 stuff should be the same. 2008 and earlier would different as well as the WR 250/300. Sounds like you may have one of those.
 
You havent got the spacers in the wrong sides have you?
Looks like its too short on the left and is pulling the wheel into the caliper.
They maybe the same size if so see if you can get some made correctly, take disk off so you dont damage it, put wheel in measure off hub how out of center the wheel is and add that to the left hand spacer.

Better check sprocket side too as if thats out by more than a snakes eyelid then it will eat chains.
 
Check to see if the caliper is sliding freely on the two pins. Not common for them to seize behind the rubber accordion seal, but it happens.
 
Thanks for suggestion but this has nothing to do with brake parts that move. The channel that causes binding is part of the solid mount that the axle slides through (check enlarged view of second photo, arrow points to problem spot).
 
I stand by my previous comment, wheel spacers are incorrect so do as i say man and lets have no more of this nonsence.
 
So you will have to cut one down and extend the other to get the offset for the brake disc.
If the sprockets out well your stuffed only option thens to sell the sexy wheel, without the disk installed does it spin freely? And are the sorockets alinged?
 
You could grind out the caliper mount a bit but i do not recommend that as it will probably pull your caliper clean off its sliding pins.
 
Motosportz said:
then other than your wheel spacers I cant see how it does not work.
Click to expand...


1/32" is pretty well the tolerance in question (only 1mm max to play with).

But this measurement is not the most important one. It is the position of the disk relative to the right wheel spacer that matters. I wonder if things are at opposite ends of manufacturing tolerances (Warp 9 wheel, OEM caliper mount) and that's enough to eat up clearance...

I also wonder if an aftermarket caliper mount (like the one from enduro engineering with integrated disk guard) might have a bit more clearance. And I am considering a dremel...
 
There are various ways to make it fit:
  1. move the whole wheel to line up disk
  2. move the disk to line things up (possible, since the Warp 9 has a spacer between hub and rotor. Thickness could be adjusted as needed)
  3. increase clearance by grinding channel in OEM caliper mount
  4. (possibly) increase clearance with aftermarket caliper mount
2 and 4 are most appealing, 3 is most expedient.For 3, I have no concern either about weakening the part or causing other issues. We are talking about 1mm.
What is perplexing is why I am having this problem at all. i trust that the wheel fit a 2009 WR125 properly per seller. Web search suggests wheels are interchangeable between 2009 and 2014. Warp 9 shows same part number for 2009 and 2014.
But various other "bolt-on" parts in the past have needed help before they bolted on to my particular Husky (whether '04 TC450, 06 TC250, 08/09 TXC250, newer). One of the charms of the Italian Husky :).
 
Looks like options 3 and 4 are out. I spent way too much time this evening opening the channel about 1mm. This provided the needed clearance there (barely) but there are more issues. I botched my original description. It was actually binding on the outer edge of channel. Once channel clearance was provided, I could see it is also touching the aluminum anchor on the swingarm (the one with the slot that the caliper mount slides into).

A 2mm to 2.2mm spacer behind the rotor (as opposed to the current 3.5mm spacer) is the solution (option 2).

I will be riding with 19" wheel and worn out tire in the morning. At least it is dry :)
 
There was a spacer on the hub that you neglected to tell us about and you think the best option is to cut the bracket for the brakes before removing a disk spacer?
Did you remove the disk as i suggested? If so you would know how much clearance or spacing was needed.

I GIVE UP.
 
Seen the same problem on a rear Talon rear hub, In this case the sproket chain line was even over to the center slightly only problem is I cant remember how we got over it, Do remeber turning up a spacer from a old sprocket to pack the sprocket over to get that side lined up but the other side my mind is still a blank --- Will report back later as that said bike is still locked away in a container after I have a look at it and see what I did :doh:
 
There are some swing arm differences in those model years. I tried to swap a spare I had on to my CR and it was about 35mm longer. Didn't get as far as trying to put the brake on.
 
The spacer is part of the Warp 9 wheel assembly. If you read things more closely you would notice that the spacer is 3.5mm thick while the disk spacing is off by 1mm. Removing the spacer would make things worse, not better.

And you might also have noticed that I did not consider removing material the best option , rather the expedient option. It gave the only possibility of trying the 18" wheel today. Didn't work out in the end, but worth a try.

And I also give up for now. I wanted the 18" wheel (more specifically, the new Motoz I mounted on it) for a 2 day ride next weekend. I won't fight the Warp 9 any more before then. Instead, one of these possibilities:
  1. new 19" tire
  2. borrow 18" wheel from TE310 (assuming it fits :) )

juicypips said:
There was a spacer on the hub that you neglected to tell us about and you think the best option is to cut the bracket for the brakes before removing a disk spacer?
Did you remove the disk as i suggested? If so you would know how much clearance or spacing was needed.

I GIVE UP.
Click to expand...
 
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