• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Want more power from your 2010 TC250 and a surprise from the Husky factory!

mxer74;65338 said:
Well, I guess I should pick up an Oring so I can install when I get the bike. Could you please tell me what size/# Oring I am suppose to use? Thanks!

Blake
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I'll need to pull mine to get a measurement. Will try to tonight after work.
 
Yes Krieg the O ring size when you get a chance would be great, thanks. Maybe we should start a 2010 TC250 mod section where we could keep jetting, O ring, exhaust, etc.
 
Actually, mine is 1/4" ID, 3/8" OD. Mine's a bit tighter than the one Blake described, but not by much. Either should work, Blake's would provide a bit less "hit" under load, provided the carb is jetted correctly.
 
Sorry Dean... not to pee in your Wheaties... but My hand is always forced forward on the throttle when I start my 4 strokes. I've got too many years of experience to do otherwise. This ain't my first Rodeo on starting 4 stroke bikes.

In fact, I've been starting my '10 TC 250 virtually every night, multiple times, with various jetting and fuel screw and AC pump linkage settings, just to see how it behaves. Tonight, for instance, I kicked it hot and cold, intermittently over a 2 hour period. I'm anal like that. Based on many weeks of doing the same things to figure out the TC's starting preferences, I'm about 99% sure the TC is sensitive to pilot jetting and fuel screw adjustments.

To say that the AP comes into play by "simply breathing on it" is WRONG no matter how tight the AP linkage is... and especially when dealing with people who've got experience and know what they're talking about. I don't care if the AP linkage is superglued to the rider's arm... that rider would have to be a complete idiot to not understand how to keep from opening the throttle while starting. That may sound self righteous on my part, and I'm sorry if you think that of me, but I know for a fact that the AP WILL NOT move if the throttle remains motionless.

I'd really be interested to see factual evidence to the contrary.
 
My reference was to herpindo's bike with the AP screw setting set the way it is. I did not follow this thread in extreme detail and do not know what your AP screw setting is. Of course the AP linkage could be different with the 2010 TC250, those things change all the time esp on Hondas a few years ago.

krieg;65468 said:
I'd really be interested to see factual evidence to the contrary.
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Pull off the carb and have someone look at the squirt while you are kicking it. If it is set below a certain distance you may see something. You could in fact confirm the chart in the thread where at a certain AP screw setting it starts to squirt - or let us know something has changed.

Even if you are skilled, others may not be.
 
Ok I somewhat understand what you guys are talking about but my question goes to the OP's thread heading question: "Want more power from your 2010 TC250 and..." I still don't know what he did if anything to get more power. Can someone shed some light on that part of his post please? Thanks, John
 
I did not follow the first post very well, mostly because the products mentioned I am not intimately familiar with.

But if I had my AP screw set like that, and I have, then the bike would load up with fuel and die, especially when slowing down for a turn or approaching the top of a hill, especially on a warm day regardless of how large a leak jet I had in it. And the easiest way to deal with it would be to wait 30 seconds then before trying to start it.
 
According to Coffee a bigger leak jet is more effective for the faster the rider and the more on off on on the throttle there is. This is why we maybe experiencing more power well at least a much better throttle responce. We ride mainly supercross where the throttle is getting snapped on and off the whole time so it looks like the 60 leak jet is helping. Aside from that I also think the Boyesen AP cover may help with the general responsiveness of the bike....one thing is for CERTAIN we have 3 riders here including myself who have all felt the difference!!
 
Coffee;65498 said:
I did not follow the first post very well, mostly because the products mentioned I am not intimately familiar with.

But if I had my AP screw set like that, and I have, then the bike would load up with fuel and die, especially when slowing down for a turn or approaching the top of a hill, especially on a warm day regardless of how large a leak jet I had in it. And the easiest way to deal with it would be to wait 30 seconds then before trying to start it.
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I did the wire thing on the TXC just to try it. I got similar results. When I would just start to crack the throttle after coasting it would richen things up too much and sputter. I changed to an O-ring and things were about perfect for my style. I think what the OP is experiencing is better throttle response and not more top end. I think if he used an O-ring instead of the wire, he could probably go down on the leak jet. As for the starting, unless he's flaming out after the AP squirts too much fuel, I still can't see how anything but the pilot and fuel screw are in play, unless he's turning the throttle while kicking hot.
 
This is some good reading guys and things are clearing up a little. So Krieg does your TC keep pulling at the top?
Man I wish our friend wouldn't have sold his YZ250F I would love to do some side by side pulls across my back field. Right now everyone's on 450F's we ride with and my son pulls them hard on the MX track but that has more to do with rider bike combo IMHO.
 
krieg;65561 said:
I did the wire thing on the TXC just to try it. I got similar results. When I would just start to crack the throttle after coasting it would richen things up too much and sputter. I changed to an O-ring and things were about perfect for my style. I think what the OP is experiencing is better throttle response and not more top end. I think if he used an O-ring instead of the wire, he could probably go down on the leak jet. As for the starting, unless he's flaming out after the AP squirts too much fuel, I still can't see how anything but the pilot and fuel screw are in play, unless he's turning the throttle while kicking hot.
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100% agree. If you are experimenting you could pull the carb, measure the AP linkage as shown in the other thread and see if that matches the graph in the other thread. :)

It should only take a couple of minutes and would be quite helpful. I do not have your model of bike available or I would do that.

herpindo;65568 said:
We increased the idle speed and the bike seems to start much easier now!
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Fully expected, more idle speed = throttle plate open more & more air. Turning the fuel screw in would also do the same thing (sorta) cause that would reduce the amount of fuel in the pilot circuit compared to the amount of air.

I watched a national enduro a while back which was on a really cold day for this area and they all had their idle speeds up in the 3000+ range (:eek:) on the larger displacement bikes.
 
Coffee;65586 said:
100% agree. If you are experimenting you could pull the carb, measure the AP linkage as shown in the other thread and see if that matches the graph in the other thread. :)

It should only take a couple of minutes and would be quite helpful. I do not have your model of bike available or I would do that.



Fully expected, more idle speed = throttle plate open more & more air. Turning the fuel screw in would also do the same thing (sorta) cause that would reduce the amount of fuel in the pilot circuit compared to the amount of air.

I watched a national enduro a while back which was on a really cold day for this area and they all had their idle speeds up in the 3000+ range (:eek:) on the larger displacement bikes.
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Good point on the idle as well. All the 4T's I've ever owned I set to 1900-2200 on idle.

One of the reasons I've been experimenting almost nightly with hot and cold starts on the TC 250 is to find the "sweet spots" on fuel screw adjustments at various temps. One thing I'm learning with the TC is that it is very sensitive to the screw adjustments. 1/8 to 1/4 turns in some cases meant the difference between 1 kick hot starts and 3-4 kicks.
 
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