Vintage Restoration Tips and Techniques

[HuskyT]

Seeing some of the stuff that all of you guys do here in order to restore your vintage bikes is amazing.... HuskyDogg, Schimme, Warburton and his Mag250,Leftcoast, Picklito just to name a few.... and many many more not listed ....

Shared Vintage Restoration knowledge is invaluable and it is my aim ( with blessings of Management) to make this the best vintage and vintage restoration, technical and social forum for Husqvarna enthusiasts....

Take some time guys ...... post up some of your various restoration tips and techniques... include a title that would be searchable for someone looking for a specific process.... e.g. "Stripping and Restoring Engine cases" or Refinishing a 38 MM MIkuni

Detail detail detail and Pictures please****************************************

T

 

[Coffee]

Shared Vintage Restoration knowledge is invaluable and it is my aim ( with blessings of Management) to make this the best vintage and vintage restoration, technical and social forum for Husqvarna enthusiasts....

You all have my full support

I know there are a few 'use groups', a yahoo group, general vintage sub forums (like on TT), and several web pages - but I''m not aware of any other dedicated Husqvarna vintage forums.

Take it as far as you want to take it.

 

[fotosaurus]

Great idea T! Especially for those of us that are new and don't know a lot of the specifics or details of these bikes. I am just starting my first restoration so will probably learn more than contribute right now. I will add one basic tip though - for those looking for a budget paint option for their frame may want to try "bumper coat" type paint. It's made for car bumpers and is flexible and very durable. It's not an exact color match but is close and will hold up better than other spray can style paints. You may want to clear coat it when done as it's flatter than factory finish. A light colored primer may help lighten the top coat to get closer to the factory color.

Should we continue to paste to this thread or post each tip as a new thread??

Thanks,

Mark

 

[HuskyT]

Post each tip, technique and process in here!... I'll move stuff around and organize it where and when necessary.... When we start getting a lot of information , I will move it over into the Vintage Tech Ref area in an organized fashion.......

T

 

[HuskyT]

:a Especially for those of us that are new and don't know a lot of the specifics or details of these bikes. ............ I am just starting my first restoration so will probably learn more than contribute right now.

Mark: This was my very thought when Coffee and I discussed vintage.... a forum where a guy with no or next to no knowledge can come in here , learn quickly and effeciently and have fun with a great group of guys!

T

 

[pschiess]

In addition to any ideas to be posted here I would love to see active links to other pages on the internet that describe restoration techniques for vintage dirt bikes.

 

[HuskyT]

Good Idea Paul****************************************

 

[fotosaurus]

Vintage bike restoration site

Most of you I'm sure are familiar with the huskyclub.com website which has/had a lot of great husky references and parts for sale. There has been some discussion on this site about the status of huskyclub (does anyone know?). I tried to order some parts from him last summer and never got a response (even after following his "how to email people about huskys tips".

In any event, the owner of that site also restores vincent motorcycles and has a site called http://www.thevincent.com/ that offers great restoration tips geared towards those bikes that would also apply to a husky or any other bike for that matter.

Mark

 

[auto]

Crag(the husky club) is starting to phase out of the world of Husqvarna.He was at both York swap meets selling off his stock.It wasen't a fire sale,but he's letting alot of stuff go.You would probably have better luck contacting him at ebay.I don't know his sellers name.Do a search on Husky BMX bicycle.He just had one for sale.

 

[mud]

Craig (huskyclub) still does Ohlins work. I have been email him about it.

 

[Fattony23]

We have to get one going on brakes, like what to buy and not to buy. What modifications need to be made to make things fit. I had husky brakes in the back and leleu's (spelling?) in the front and it was a hassle getting everything to work. I got mine together but it wasnt pretty

I can write out what I had to do, but Id rather see what other people did first.

 

[HuskyT]

Ok, I've been meaning to do this for a while, so here are the 10 Laws of Braking:

1. Drums. Check the drum for wear, ridges, out-of-round and contamination. Anything less than a perfect drum reduces braking power. The right machine shop can help with this. Don't trust a new drum to be true. (make sure your spokes are in before truing)

2. Wheel bearings. You need new, sealed, high quality bearings. Any slop in the bearings compromises alignment between shoes and drum. Unsealed bearings contaminate the shoes with grease. Don't forget to check the axle to ensure it is perfectly straight.

3. Backing plates. Husky backing plates aren't great. Make sure the plate is flat and all appropriate surfaces are true. Check the bore of the axle and its bushing.(more detail please Steve!) Check the cam bore for wear. The brake cam soon wears out its bore in the backing plate and gets sloppy. If the cam is sloppy the shoes will not maintain alignment. Some new backing plates aren't great either. The solution is a perfectly fitted brass bushing that allows no play and allows the cam to turn smoothly. I also use a thin nylon/teflon washer between the cam and plate.( more detail Steve!!!)

http://

The pivot pin is also a weak point. The pins bend, break and get sloppy in their bore. They are peened/pressed on the outside to hold them in the plate and even new ones are sometimes loose. The solution is a pin with a larger diameter for a better grip in the plate and a flange to fit against the plate to prevent rocking. A 2-3 thou interference fit holds it tight along with a bolt from the outside for insurance. New and old pins below. More detail on how to remove Please

http://

4. Shoes. Friction materials have vastly improved since our Huskys were built. Buy modern shoes, not NOS. I like Ferodo brand. (Where Have you found Ferodos for DLS Husky's Steve??? source info????) Remove any casting imperfections from the shoes where they contact the pin and cam. Custom, oversize shoes are available from the brake specialists to match your drum diameter if it's beyond spec.
Upon contact, the arc of the shoe must match the arc of the drum. Patience and a steady hand with a file can get this done in the garage or send the works to the specialty guys. The shoes will need break-in time for maximum contact.

5. Lube. Ultra high temp brake lube only(Brand you use Steve???), used VERY sparingly on the cam and pivot.

6. Brake stay arms. Make sure the brake stay arm fits perfectly flat against the plate so that it doesn't mess with the alignment.

7. Brake rods and pedals. Any slop in the connection between your toe and the brake shoe = loss of feel and performance. There's lots to improve here.

8. Stock Husky cables are pretty good. A common aftermarket brand has so much stretch and flex you might as well use a rubber band for a brake cable. Get the heaviest cables you can find or make. ( Has anyone used the stainless sheathed cables from Phillip?)

9. Levers. There are better levers available with more leverage and less friction. (Ok Steve... you have my interest now... where, what and how much???) You will notice the difference. I use Maguras just for the authentic look, not performance. You can work on the Maguras and make them pretty smooth.

10. Alignment. You've always been told to apply the brakes while tightening your axle nut. If you have looked after every possible mating surface, there should already be perfect alignment.

11. Maintanence. Keep brakes clean. Dry the brakes after you wash your bike. Lube those cables, levers, pedal pivots, etc.

Nothing secret or tricky here, just pay attention to details and you will have brakes that work very well.
Steve

Ok Steve... You get mucho rep points on your USER CP for this post.... It however raises many more questions for me... see above...I am rebuilding my front DLS next week .........got any extra machined pins and pivots laying around your shop for an 83 DLS???

Great post Steve....

T

 

[Moody390]

Huskydoggg,
On the rear brake plate, there is a bushing that a bolt goes through to hold the brake stay arm. Mine was originally rubber but melted out for the powder coating. When i put the brake stay in place there is alot of movement (2-3mm) between the brake stay and the plate. should the bushing make contact with both sides of the brake plate?

I can get a picture if you don't understand what I'm saying.
Thanks.

 

[Leftcoast leftkicker]

Huskydoggg- that my friend is,as the disaffected yutes say, "da bomb"! Surely you have a doctorate in Husky-osity? My 2 cents worth (I guess between fearless leader & the economy I should be saying 2 millions worth?):
- If you're building race wheels (Excels & Buchanan ss spokes) save some $ up to send the wheels to Woody in FL at Woody's GP. He machines/replaces the liner (you'd be SHOCKED how much is worn which impacts the amount of brake cable free play) & trues the wheels. I can now finally say that my bike stops as good or better than a Honda or Yamaha. Downside is, he's not cheap but worth every penny.
- DLS requires an entirely different set up for max contact and almost everybody's is set up wrong. I had George show me once years ago & then I forgot it but recently had a Team Husky mechanic from back in the day show me and LORDY! the shoes bite hard. The trick is with the adjuster arm, you have to get both shoes to expand at the same rate (usually one engages before the other). After you've eye-balled the set-up off the bike, remount the wheel and with the bike on the stand slowly spin the wheel until you think it's about perfect. What you're looking for when you apply brake pressure is for the wheel to stop then slowly spin backwards.
- I use the metal-wrapped cable from HusqvarnaParts for my front brake and love it!
- I'm way anal about levers and with small hands (compensate elsewhere) the Magura's were tough so I use modern lever assemblies. You'll have to make spacers to take up the slack plus re-adjust the clutch throw but it's worth it IMHO. Currently running ASVs for both.

 

[HuskyT]

Huskydoggg- that my friend is,as the disaffected yutes say, "da bomb"! Surely you have a doctorate in Husky-osity? My 2 cents worth (I guess between fearless leader & the economy I should be saying 2 millions worth?):
- If you're building race wheels (Excels & Buchanan ss spokes) save some $ up to send the wheels to Woody in FL at Woody's GP. He machines/replaces the liner (you'd be SHOCKED how much is worn which impacts the amount of brake cable free play) & trues the wheels. I can now finally say that my bike stops as good or better than a Honda or Yamaha. Downside is, he's not cheap but worth every penny.
- DLS requires an entirely different set up for max contact and almost everybody's is set up wrong. I had George show me once years ago & then I forgot it but recently had a Team Husky mechanic from back in the day show me and LORDY! the shoes bite hard. The trick is with the adjuster arm, you have to get both shoes to expand at the same rate (usually one engages before the other). After you've eye-balled the set-up off the bike, remount the wheel and with the bike on the stand slowly spin the wheel until you think it's about perfect. What you're looking for when you apply brake pressure is for the wheel to stop then slowly spin backwards.
- I use the metal-wrapped cable from HusqvarnaParts for my front brake and love it!
- I'm way anal about levers and with small hands (compensate elsewhere) the Magura's were tough so I use modern lever assemblies. You'll have to make spacers to take up the slack plus re-adjust the clutch throw but it's worth it IMHO. Currently running ASVs for both.

LeftCoast ,

Can you post up images of your ASV set up.... I for one am interested... especially in the spacers ... assuming you used the stainless cables from Phillip?

Maybe start a thread called "ASV levers for Vintage Husky " just an idea.....

Sorry but can't make it on Sunday.... taking the kids to the desert very early a.m. for a kid only ride****************************************

 

[HuskyT]

huskyT,
Ferodo DLS shoes are available from Vintage Brake. FSB813, $37.95.
I just ordered a set.
Steve

Cool. For quite awhile he did not have any!