• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Upper shroud breakage

CARL REHATCHEK

CARL REHATCHEK

Husqvarna
AA Class
Just a general question.. When most are in the Biz for a new upper shroud what is broken the most causing the want/need for a replacement ??

thanks, Carl
 
`For me, usually the tip that hangs on the limbs & such. Then also the thin strip where the bolt on the side of the gas tank, & sometimes the bolt hole at the top of the radiators. I have a collection! lol.
 
Same here, the very front edge of the shroud gets caught on everything and also the front tab thats attaches to the front of the tank is a weak point.
 
I'm in the habit of trimming the front inch off the upper shrouds to make it a continuous curve with the lower shroud, then drilling at least one hole in both the upper and lower shrouds and zip tying them together to prevent branches and leaves getting caught between them. It's helping, but I still break shrouds...
 
Good idea dfeckel. I often feel like a para military bike with camoflage where the shroud (of Touring and ST) just accumulates forrest.
 
Has anyone every tried to put a grommet , and bolt with washer in the front of the tank and cut a slot with ears in the small return flange of the upper shroud and pop it into place and then tighten the bolt for added pressure ..

On impact it should release like a jap number plate so to speak.. I'm working on a offset piece thats will bolt on the inside of the shroud to replace the "STRAP" so to speak and help in that nature.. Both should/would allow it to move without breakage... by now a 1 piece shroud would be great..

Chow, Carl
 
I have my uppers zip tied to my OFG radiator braces. I drilled two holes on each side. I should zip tie upper and lower together.

Here are a couple of pics of CH Racing WR300 (Seb Guillaume's bike). They appear to bolt the upper and lower together.....

Top photo shows red anodized button head bolt, lower gunsight logo on upper shroud.
http://www.m-svensson.se/album/Endu...27 - Paddoc Sign up plus misc/slides/010.html

Lower photo shows inside where upper and lower meets, but I can't make it out clearly.
http://www.m-svensson.se/album/Endu...27 - Paddoc Sign up plus misc/slides/011.html
 
I'm liking the zip tie ideas. Those shrouds appear to be made to scoop everything! Going to experiment with it to see what works without getting in the way of steering.
 
Norm,

Yes it looks like the strap is removed and bolted.. I'll set up pics once I get a chance for riders to see where I'm heading.. I'm looking for a less solid mount of not trying the tie the 2 directly together as it could tear out bolts thru the holes or bend and break rad tabs as some have noted in other post.

Still allowing it to popup and out of it's natural spot without damaging anything else and then you lift it back and set it in the resting spots again..

Time will tell

Chow, Carl
 
I used a heat gun to bend mine in right at the crease near the front bolt that is on the inside (above the radiator). After bending them the tips of the shrouds faced perfectly straight forward, parallel to each other. That seemed to work really well as I used these plastics all season long until the very last race where I snagged a vine and snapped right off. This being a full season of enduros, most tighter than NEPG.
 
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