• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Up-Tite Skid Plate. 99% Great

DavidB

Husqvarna
A Class
Received the Up-tite skid plate for my 2011 310. It is nice. But what is the deal with the rear mount? Whether I have to take that plate off once or every time I change the oil what would it take to send it with a little bracket with a nut welded on it? A little steel or aluminium channel/bracket that you just put on the frame that has the bolt on It so it doesn't spin while turning the bolt. Cost? $1.00. I have a welder and I will make my own bracket. Now in fairness to the owner of Uptite he did say if you want it to really stay on you should tap the sides of the frame and bolt it. Not trying to be an ass. In my opinion this is a great plate and people should by it. They should fix the rear mount bracket. I think it was George I ordered it from. He was honest and great. He trusts people enough to send the product ups cod(check) That is class. So now I feel bad. George everyone has an opinion this was mine. And yes I recommend Uptite. Be well everyone.
 
I like the bottom holes for the drain plugs, but the upper protection covers one of the oil filter cover bolts. That means removing the two front bolts and loosening the rear bolts on the plate. I might drill a hole big enough for a 8mm socket to get at it. Then the plate could just stay put during oil changes.
 
A little steel or aluminium channel/bracket that you just put on the frame that has the bolt on It so it doesn't spin while turning the bolt. Cost? $1.00..

You mean clip-on or speed nuts, you can get these at the auto shop or hardware store, my bike had them already from the stock skid plate.

Clip_nut_U_nut.jpg
 
When he changes oil he doesn't use the bottom plug. He's seen too many people put them back in and forget the washer and over-tighten them. Not to say he won't take the plate off if he has a reason to check the drain bolt.

disregard. Older bike reference via habit and poor reading ....
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I don't have a shop manual but how do you drain oil on 2011 TE 310? The owners manual says to remove nut and hose at bottom. Is there an easier way?
 
I like the bottom holes for the drain plugs, but the upper protection covers one of the oil filter cover bolts. That means removing the two front bolts and loosening the rear bolts on the plate. I might drill a hole big enough for a 8mm socket to get at it. Then the plate could just stay put during oil changes.
I take the skid plate off for every wash, and every oil change. It only takes a minute and makes the job a lot easier.
 
I don't have a shop manual but how do you drain oil on 2011 TE 310? The owners manual says to remove nut and hose at bottom. Is there an easier way?

I am not aware of an easier way. Remove the skid plate. Loosen the clamp on the oil breather/return hose. This hose is attached to the oil drain plug once it is loosened you can unscrew the oil drain bolt. Get an open end ratchet wrench it makes the job a lot easier.
 
When he changes oil he doesn't use the bottom plug. He's seen too many people put them back in and forget the washer and over-tighten them. Not to say he won't take the plate off if he has a reason to check the drain bolt.
You need to get beyond the legacy motors when giving advice. There is no other way to drain the oil correctly on a x-lite motor other than removing the 1 and only drain bolt (2010 250cc, 2011 250&310). Different plug location (pain in the ass) plus a screen behind said plug and different paper filter type (better design IMO) than the older motors.
 
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