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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Unstable at 75 mph
- Thread starter Jono
- Start date
Kenneth Webb
Livin' It Up!
Just getting rid of the stock Karoo tires seems to have worked for me. I will not have a tire with a central groove on either my street bike or my dual sport. It seems like a small thing, but every time I had a tire like that, especially a front tire, there was some type of front wobble or weave somewhere up or down the speed scale. And, keep the wheels/tires balanced!
Jono
Husqvarna
B Class
What a great dealer I have here in Norwich, he said his tech rode it found nothing wrong with it, when I asked what speed he went up to he replied "60" I said the problem was at 70 as I had told them!!! his reply was well dont ride it at those speeds then................I was gobsmacked to say the least, I have forced the issue with them, saying I have paid nearly £6000 for a bike I can only ride up to 70mph and I want it tested to the speeds it is suppoed to do. This bike has been a nightmare new engine after 72 miles, new speedo after 300 miles, now this at 1000 miles. It may be up for sale soon as I am fed up with it..............
jtemple
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I have had my share of issues with the bike, believe me. I still love it every time I throw my leg over it. It's dirty, scuffed up, has slid down the street at 45 mph, and just keeps asking for more.
You can't be afraid to work on it yourself. Relying on a piss poor dealer won't do anything but cost you money and time.
I'd start by balancing the wheels. That's easy enough to do yourself. Spend a few bucks on some wheel weights, rig up a homemade balancing stand, and get to work.
You want the rear end to sag about 80-90mm when you sit on it. Adjust your rear shock preload until that happens.
Judging by your dealer experience, you dealer probably did not ensure everything on the bike was tight and greased well. Grease your bearings and set the steering bearing preload properly.
In the near future, I recommend getting your own iBeat from http://semcodesigns.com/
IMO, part of motorcycle ownership is knowing how to do your own wrenching. It'll save you time and money, and make you a man.
If you don't have the manuals you need for your bike, get them here:
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B87JGKEoBQdza3R1N19wVV92YWM
Run the forks down in the triple (make them longer), Loosen the rear sag (have someone help you set it). http://www.racetech.com/articles/suspensionandsprings.htm Make sure your tire pressure is good (and play with different amounts) and the wheels are well balanced. Put your bike on a stand and make sure there is NO play in the head stay. if you still feel it make sure your tires are good and you don't have one separating. These are good bikes that can become very lovable, stick with it. these are semi simple fixes. Learn to do stuff yourself so you dont have to rely on the dealer. There is more info / help here than at 90% of the dealers.
Don't assume anything until you do baseline setup on the suspension, it makes a huge difference.
__________________________
Spring Preload & Race Sag Overview
Setting the proper race sag (ride height) is important for competition use. Race sag refers to the amount of rear wheel travel used by your bike at rest, ready to ride, with you on the seat. As a general rule of thumb, the race sag dimension should be about one-third of the maximum travel. Ride height is changed by adjusting the rear suspension spring pre-load.
Spring Preload & Race Sag Adjustment
The following adjustment procedure establishes the correct starting point for any suspension tuning - the proper rear spring preload adjustment for your specific needs. Your bike should be at normal racing weight, including fuel and engine oil. You should wear all your normal protective gear. To calculate the proper adjustment, it's necessary to measure between two fixed points - from the top of the most rearward point of the sub-frame down to the machined edge at the rear of the swing-arm, for three different situations:
Unloaded (without rider): Bike on a stand with rear suspension fully extended
Loaded - with rider: Bike on the ground
Loaded - without rider: Bike on the ground
Calculate the Race Sag Dimension
Support your bike on a stand with the rear wheel off the ground. Measure the "loaded - with rider" and "unloaded" dimensions. Remove the stand, with two helpers available, sit as far forward as possible on the seat, wearing all your protective gear. Ask one helper to steady your bike perfectly upright so you can put both feet on the pegs. Bounce your weight on the seat a couple times to help the suspension overcome any sticking action and settle to a good reference point. Ask the other helper to measure the "loaded - with rider" dimension.
To calculate the race sag dimension, subtract the "loaded - with rider" dimension from the "unloaded" dimension.
Unloaded - 671mm (26.4")
Loaded w/rider - 568 mm (22.4")
Race Sag = 103 mm (4.0")
Adjust spring preload as necessary to obtain the desired handling results:
Decreasing the race sag dimension (i.e. 98 mm, 3.9") improves turning ability for tight terrain at the cost of slightly reduced straight line stability.
Increasing the race sag dimension (i.e. 108 mm, 4.3") may improve stability on faster terrain with less turns, but will reduce turning performance slightly and may upset the balance between the front and rear suspension, producing a harsher ride. This will happen if the adjustment shifts the effective wheel travel toward the more progressive end of its range.
The ideal race sag (ride height) is 103 mm. This is the center of the recommended 100-105 mm range. Individual preference may produce a race sag from 85-115 mm. It is important to know your ideal race sag measurement before changing spring preload. Different abilities, riding styles, and measuring techniques will vary the ideal race sag among individual riders.
Unloaded - 671mm (26.4")
Loaded w/o rider - 651mm (25.6")
Free Sag = 20mm (0.8")
Calculate the Free Sag Dimension
Free sag indicates the distance the rear suspension should sag from the weight of the sprung portion of your bike. To calculate the free sag dimension, subtract the "loaded - without rider" dimension from the "unloaded" dimension. Do this with your bike set at the standard race sag.
With the spring preload set to obtain the proper race sag, the rear suspension should sag 10 to 25 mm (0.39 to 0.98"). If the rear of your bike sags less than 25 mm (0.98") from its own weight, the spring is too stiff for your weight. It's not compressed enough, even though you have the proper race sag adjustment. As a result, the rear suspension will not extend as far as it should.
Spring Rate
If you are lighter or heavier than the average rider and cannot set the proper ride height without altering the correct spring preload, consider an aftermarket spring.
A spring that is too soft for your weight forces you to add excessive spring preload to get the right race sag and, as a result, the rear end is raised. This can cause the rear wheel to unload too much in the air and top out as travel rebounds. The rear end may top out from light braking, or kick sideways over lips and square-edged terrain. It may even top out when you dismount your bike.
Because of the great absorption quality of the shock bumper rubber, it may be difficult for you to notice when your bike's suspension is bottoming out. Some riders may think the damping or perhaps the leverage ratio is too harsh and in reality, the problem is most likely insufficient spring preload or a spring that is too soft. Either situation prevents utilizing the full travel.
Keep in mind that a properly adjusted suspension system may bottom slightly every few minutes at full speed. Adjusting the suspension to avoid this occasional bottoming may cost more in overall suspension performance than it is worth.
A spring that is too firm for your weight will not allow the rear tire to hook up under acceleration and it will pass more bumps on to you.
Suspension Adjustments
Suspension Adjustments for Specific Terrain - SOFT SURFACE (Sandy, Loamy)
Typically large rolling bumps will develop which may require an over all stiffer setting.
On soft ground, sand, and especially mud, consider increasing compression damping front and rear. Sand often requires a bit more rebound damping to minimize rear end kick. Although sand bumps are usually larger, there's more distance between them, giving the shock more time to recover. You may want the front suspension a little stiffer for sand tracks to help keep the front end up and improve straight-line stability.
In a muddy event, stiffer aftermarket springs front and rear may help, especially if you are heavier than the average rider. Your bike may be under-sprung because of the added weight of the clinging mud. This additional weight may compress the suspension too much and affect traction.
Front Suspension - SOFT SURFACE
Test harder compression damping in one-click increments
Test harder rebound damping in one-click increments
Increase spring preload in 1½ mm increments
Raise the oil level by adding oil in each fork leg in 5 mm increments
Rear Suspension - SOFT SURFACE
Decrease race sag (by increasing spring preload) in 5 mm increments. Usually, one complete turn of the spring adjuster nut will produce a 5-6 mm change in race sag.
Test harder rebound damping with each increase in spring preload, in one-click increments.
Test harder compression damping in one-click increments.
Suspension Adjustments for Specific Terrain - HARD SURFACE
On harder ground you may want to decrease compression damping. When an overall softer setting is achieved, the fork may have a tendency to bottom on jump landings. If this occurs, consider raising the fork oil level to make the end of fork travel more progressive so it resists bottoming.
Front Suspension - HARD SURFACE
Test softer compression damping in one-click increments
Test softer rebound damping in one-click increments
Check for dirt in the dust seals
Check the fork oil for contamination
Check fork alignment, following proper front wheel installation procedure
Check for air in the fork legs. Release accumulated air pressure by opening the air bleed screw on each fork cap.
Rear Suspension - HARD SURFACE
Set ideal race sag. Avoid making a major change in race sag in this situation.
To reduce the impact of small bumps - test softer compression damping in one-click increments.
To better absorb the impact of big jump landings - test one-click harder compression damping. If necessary, test two-clicks harder compression damping, followed by a ½ turn increase in spring preload. Repeat if necessary.
To stabilize the recovery of the rear wheel after jump landings (reduce a spongy feel) - test harder rebound damping in one-click increments.
__________________________
Spring Preload & Race Sag Overview
Setting the proper race sag (ride height) is important for competition use. Race sag refers to the amount of rear wheel travel used by your bike at rest, ready to ride, with you on the seat. As a general rule of thumb, the race sag dimension should be about one-third of the maximum travel. Ride height is changed by adjusting the rear suspension spring pre-load.
Spring Preload & Race Sag Adjustment
The following adjustment procedure establishes the correct starting point for any suspension tuning - the proper rear spring preload adjustment for your specific needs. Your bike should be at normal racing weight, including fuel and engine oil. You should wear all your normal protective gear. To calculate the proper adjustment, it's necessary to measure between two fixed points - from the top of the most rearward point of the sub-frame down to the machined edge at the rear of the swing-arm, for three different situations:
Unloaded (without rider): Bike on a stand with rear suspension fully extended
Loaded - with rider: Bike on the ground
Loaded - without rider: Bike on the ground
Calculate the Race Sag Dimension
Support your bike on a stand with the rear wheel off the ground. Measure the "loaded - with rider" and "unloaded" dimensions. Remove the stand, with two helpers available, sit as far forward as possible on the seat, wearing all your protective gear. Ask one helper to steady your bike perfectly upright so you can put both feet on the pegs. Bounce your weight on the seat a couple times to help the suspension overcome any sticking action and settle to a good reference point. Ask the other helper to measure the "loaded - with rider" dimension.
To calculate the race sag dimension, subtract the "loaded - with rider" dimension from the "unloaded" dimension.
Unloaded - 671mm (26.4")
Loaded w/rider - 568 mm (22.4")
Race Sag = 103 mm (4.0")
Adjust spring preload as necessary to obtain the desired handling results:
Decreasing the race sag dimension (i.e. 98 mm, 3.9") improves turning ability for tight terrain at the cost of slightly reduced straight line stability.
Increasing the race sag dimension (i.e. 108 mm, 4.3") may improve stability on faster terrain with less turns, but will reduce turning performance slightly and may upset the balance between the front and rear suspension, producing a harsher ride. This will happen if the adjustment shifts the effective wheel travel toward the more progressive end of its range.
The ideal race sag (ride height) is 103 mm. This is the center of the recommended 100-105 mm range. Individual preference may produce a race sag from 85-115 mm. It is important to know your ideal race sag measurement before changing spring preload. Different abilities, riding styles, and measuring techniques will vary the ideal race sag among individual riders.
Unloaded - 671mm (26.4")
Loaded w/o rider - 651mm (25.6")
Free Sag = 20mm (0.8")
Calculate the Free Sag Dimension
Free sag indicates the distance the rear suspension should sag from the weight of the sprung portion of your bike. To calculate the free sag dimension, subtract the "loaded - without rider" dimension from the "unloaded" dimension. Do this with your bike set at the standard race sag.
With the spring preload set to obtain the proper race sag, the rear suspension should sag 10 to 25 mm (0.39 to 0.98"). If the rear of your bike sags less than 25 mm (0.98") from its own weight, the spring is too stiff for your weight. It's not compressed enough, even though you have the proper race sag adjustment. As a result, the rear suspension will not extend as far as it should.
Spring Rate
If you are lighter or heavier than the average rider and cannot set the proper ride height without altering the correct spring preload, consider an aftermarket spring.
A spring that is too soft for your weight forces you to add excessive spring preload to get the right race sag and, as a result, the rear end is raised. This can cause the rear wheel to unload too much in the air and top out as travel rebounds. The rear end may top out from light braking, or kick sideways over lips and square-edged terrain. It may even top out when you dismount your bike.
Because of the great absorption quality of the shock bumper rubber, it may be difficult for you to notice when your bike's suspension is bottoming out. Some riders may think the damping or perhaps the leverage ratio is too harsh and in reality, the problem is most likely insufficient spring preload or a spring that is too soft. Either situation prevents utilizing the full travel.
Keep in mind that a properly adjusted suspension system may bottom slightly every few minutes at full speed. Adjusting the suspension to avoid this occasional bottoming may cost more in overall suspension performance than it is worth.
A spring that is too firm for your weight will not allow the rear tire to hook up under acceleration and it will pass more bumps on to you.
Suspension Adjustments
Suspension Adjustments for Specific Terrain - SOFT SURFACE (Sandy, Loamy)
Typically large rolling bumps will develop which may require an over all stiffer setting.
On soft ground, sand, and especially mud, consider increasing compression damping front and rear. Sand often requires a bit more rebound damping to minimize rear end kick. Although sand bumps are usually larger, there's more distance between them, giving the shock more time to recover. You may want the front suspension a little stiffer for sand tracks to help keep the front end up and improve straight-line stability.
In a muddy event, stiffer aftermarket springs front and rear may help, especially if you are heavier than the average rider. Your bike may be under-sprung because of the added weight of the clinging mud. This additional weight may compress the suspension too much and affect traction.
Front Suspension - SOFT SURFACE
Test harder compression damping in one-click increments
Test harder rebound damping in one-click increments
Increase spring preload in 1½ mm increments
Raise the oil level by adding oil in each fork leg in 5 mm increments
Rear Suspension - SOFT SURFACE
Decrease race sag (by increasing spring preload) in 5 mm increments. Usually, one complete turn of the spring adjuster nut will produce a 5-6 mm change in race sag.
Test harder rebound damping with each increase in spring preload, in one-click increments.
Test harder compression damping in one-click increments.
Suspension Adjustments for Specific Terrain - HARD SURFACE
On harder ground you may want to decrease compression damping. When an overall softer setting is achieved, the fork may have a tendency to bottom on jump landings. If this occurs, consider raising the fork oil level to make the end of fork travel more progressive so it resists bottoming.
Front Suspension - HARD SURFACE
Test softer compression damping in one-click increments
Test softer rebound damping in one-click increments
Check for dirt in the dust seals
Check the fork oil for contamination
Check fork alignment, following proper front wheel installation procedure
Check for air in the fork legs. Release accumulated air pressure by opening the air bleed screw on each fork cap.
Rear Suspension - HARD SURFACE
Set ideal race sag. Avoid making a major change in race sag in this situation.
To reduce the impact of small bumps - test softer compression damping in one-click increments.
To better absorb the impact of big jump landings - test one-click harder compression damping. If necessary, test two-clicks harder compression damping, followed by a ½ turn increase in spring preload. Repeat if necessary.
To stabilize the recovery of the rear wheel after jump landings (reduce a spongy feel) - test harder rebound damping in one-click increments.
mnb
Husqvarna
Pro Class
FWIW, most shock manufacturers recommend a sag of 30-33% of total unloaded suspension travel, which for the 630's rear suspension is 96-105mm.
Of course, 103mm is in that range, but I'm curious how you arrived at that number. Is it what Husky recommends in the manual?
Fast1
Husqvarna
AA Class
you also need to loosen the axle if you do this and then retighten it after moving the front suspension to properly center the forks/axle.
I'll bet it is all a result of the rear sage being set too stiff. Loosen it ... so the rear of the bike sags in the back more with your weigth on it. 100 mm if you measure
You can try the same thing without doing anything to the bike by having a passenger ride on the back and see what happens at 70 mph.
CJBROWN
Husqvarna
AA Class
Mine did this really bad at first too. Tightened the head bearings, added a little more sag, and got the tires worn in. Getting the Karoo off the back seem to have been the best move of all.
These are big dirtbikes and as such are susceptible to this type of wobble or headshake. Common on SE's, Dakars, F8's, bunches of them. Going to a road tire fixes all of it. You trade offroad traction for road stability.
I just got back from an 800 mile trip, about 80% dirt, loaded with camping gear. It was rock steady on road up to 80mph, even carved some mountain passes with it and it did great. Also rock steady on gravel up to 70mph. It does get a little dicey if you have to stop though, starts to do the rear end fish tail thing.
When mine is unloaded it definitely will wobble or shake easier at high speed, like over 70mph.
Certain tires seem to do this more, the rubber firms up after a few heat cycles. I thought it was the bike too but now think it's the tires. It's worse with more air in the front. At 20-22lbs in the Rally it seems really stable now.
BTW, I did the fork realignment thing too and I think that also helped. Personally I don't think grip has anything to do with it.
These are big dirtbikes and as such are susceptible to this type of wobble or headshake. Common on SE's, Dakars, F8's, bunches of them. Going to a road tire fixes all of it. You trade offroad traction for road stability.
I just got back from an 800 mile trip, about 80% dirt, loaded with camping gear. It was rock steady on road up to 80mph, even carved some mountain passes with it and it did great. Also rock steady on gravel up to 70mph. It does get a little dicey if you have to stop though, starts to do the rear end fish tail thing.
When mine is unloaded it definitely will wobble or shake easier at high speed, like over 70mph.
Certain tires seem to do this more, the rubber firms up after a few heat cycles. I thought it was the bike too but now think it's the tires. It's worse with more air in the front. At 20-22lbs in the Rally it seems really stable now.
BTW, I did the fork realignment thing too and I think that also helped. Personally I don't think grip has anything to do with it.
My SM seems to be the same even with road tyres.
I think I need to get the wheels off an make sure they are balanced correctly as I haven't done much mileage on it since buying the bike.
When you guys are talking about setting the sag on the rear, this is adjusted by moving the spring and lock nuts isnt it rather than the dial on the side ?
i'm 5 9 and weigh about 170 Pounds
Is it possible to dial the bike in for such a rider ?
I think I need to get the wheels off an make sure they are balanced correctly as I haven't done much mileage on it since buying the bike.
When you guys are talking about setting the sag on the rear, this is adjusted by moving the spring and lock nuts isnt it rather than the dial on the side ?
i'm 5 9 and weigh about 170 Pounds
Is it possible to dial the bike in for such a rider ?
CJBROWN
Husqvarna
AA Class
I can't speak for the SM, but the TE shock spring is spec'd for about 250lbs. So it must have been intended for either a very large rider or 2-up. One of the things we've run into with the stock spring is that if you back off the preload enough to get proper sag then the spring is too lightly loaded and initial spring tension is too low.
You may very well need a softer spring set with the correct sag in order to get best performance.
And yes, the preload is adjusted with the two lock rings and a punch or similar tool. And yes, it's a pita to adjust. The dial on the side is for low and high speed compression damping adjustment, the rebound is on the lower leg of the unit under the swingarm - also hard to get to and adjust. The shop manual has instructions for adjusting the shock but really isn't very clear - they talk about braking performance in setting damping adjustment - ridiculous.
Kenneth Webb
Livin' It Up!
Not sure on the SM, but CJ is right about how the TE is set up. The springs are way too stiff. The stock rear spring is 6.4 kg, and after LTR reworked my suspension I wound up with a 5.8 kg. If you go to the Race Teck site you can get their recommendations, which is for a 5.4 on my TE. The 5.8 gets my rider sag just 2mm high when loaded with adventure gear. I weigh a 190 w/o gear on. Husky puts big springs on the TE. No wobbles any more after the suspension work and tire changes.
Jono
Husqvarna
B Class
A tab washer in the gear box which wasn't secured properly and the nut unwound and caused engine to sieze solid luckily I was only do 30mph at the time only a few minutes before i was doing 60ish!!!
Jono
Husqvarna
B Class
Thanks for the advice I do love the bike I just thought after spending nearly 6k I would get a properly sorted bike, I am used to using a spanner I own a Lambretta **************************************** I was foolish to think as it was new I wouldnt need to start messing with it, Italian bikes hey.................
Fast1
Husqvarna
AA Class
The rear pre-load is much easier to adjust when the bike is on a stand and the rear tire is off the ground allowing minimal spring compression.
Every dirt oriented bike including allot of pavement bikes should have the suspension adjusted by the owner based on their weight and intended ride environment. To think the bike would come off the shelf all set for your weight and ride terrain is foolish thinking.
Every dirt oriented bike including allot of pavement bikes should have the suspension adjusted by the owner based on their weight and intended ride environment. To think the bike would come off the shelf all set for your weight and ride terrain is foolish thinking.
