• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Uh oh...I can't get my "11 WR300 out of 1st gear

MOTORHEAD said:
It goes in behind the "cup" of the ball ramp. The balls push the cup inward and move the arm.
Click to expand...

Thanks Motorhead. Just so I understand you correctly, the arm goes in behind the flat surface of the "cup" (i.e. the surface facing the engine, not the cupped side facing outward) that houses the two balls? That's what I thought, so what's the trick to get it there when reinstalling the left side cover? I know the lever that holds the black plastic control rod must be pointing inward (see photo taken when pv cover was initially removed), so I know how's it's supposed to look when the cover is on.

That leads me to a follow up question: does the angle of the gear need to be at a particular angle before reattaching the plastic control rod? I've heard it doesn't because the valve angle is already set when the gearing is installed, and that all you have to do is reconnec the control rod.

Thanks again.

powervalvelever&controlrod.JPG
 
Yeah, it needs to be on the inside or crank side of the cup. I was thinking there was a groove on the back side that it rode in, but I could be wrong or thinking of another brand.

If you twist the top of the rod clockwise so the follower or finger is all the way back you should be able to get it over the cup and get the cover on. If there is a groove, just get it in there and it should stay as the cover goes on.
 
It looks like the ones that are in my KDXs. On those I always install the valve advancer assembly (that's what they call it) into the case cover with the advancer rod in the groove, so that the whole thing goes back onto the primary drive side of the engine in one piece. I always have to make sure that the gears on the advancer assembly line up with the gears in the engine assembly, and everything meshes smoothly as the case slips together that last quarter inch or so. Haven't inspected my 300 yet, but can only imagine that it goes back together that way from looking at the pictures posted.:excuseme:
 
MOTORHEAD said:
Yeah, it needs to be on the inside or crank side of the cup. I was thinking there was a groove on the back side that it rode in, but I could be wrong or thinking of another brand.

If you twist the top of the rod clockwise so the follower or finger is all the way back you should be able to get it over the cup and get the cover on. If there is a groove, just get it in there and it should stay as the cover goes on.
Click to expand...

I think I now know the "grove" your talking about. I think it's the grove provided by the spacer between the two bearings of the valve drive regulator assembly (part #5). Is that groove the same one you're thinking of? The end of the counter shaft (the follower, part #6) extends nearly to the centerline of the regulator assembly and is aligned along that axis such that the follower seems to line up in that groove, so it makes sense to me that the end of the follower would go in there. Glad I took it off to have a look-see. I'll give it the ol' college try now and see if I can't get the friggin' thing on now.

Dirtdame, this valve drive regulator assembly did not come out when I originally removed the cover. It was still in place. I'll try removing the gear and try to slip everything in the way you described...

and my saga continues...thanks again everyone

valvedriveregulator_01.JPGvalvedriveregulator_02.JPG
 
All done! I was able to pull the gear from the case, reassemble the valve drive regulator (see first photo), place it in the cover (see second photo), and then the cover slid on so easily. :thumbsup: I'll fire it up tomorrow evening to make sure I can officially get out of 1st gear.

Thanks again!

valvedriveregulator_04.JPGvalvedriveregulator_05.JPG
 
Quick update: My intial repair failed after about 4 hrs of riding. I pulled it all apart again and found the same friggin' problem as before; a loose screw that fastens the shifting drum to the gearbox forks shaft. No sign of the blue threadlocker that I judiciously applied either. I even went a little heavy on the recommended torque spec. Perhaps I didn't give the thread locker enough curing time??? So this time I used red thread locker and increased the torqe by 3-4 times. I gave the thread locker about 2 hrs to set before uprighting the bike and submerging the clutch and shifting assembly in oil. It only took me about an hour this time around. I've got about 8 hrs on it since the second repair including a 1.5 hr race and have not had any issues...yet. Hopefully this time it sticks...
 
I hope it holds, but it is possible that there was some thread damage when the screw loosened up or that there was a thread problem since day one.
You are cleaning the treads real good with brake cleaner or other strong solvent first? It only takes a trace of oil to effect the locktite effectiveness.
Keep your fingers crossed....
 
I was having issues today getting into second while riding in the woods. I kept hitting neutral and thought I was just being a flounder. Well it's stuck in first now. Luckily I was only about 5 miles from the car, but it took a while riding in first. Hopefully, I'll have time to work on it tomorrow and it is the same problem as in this post.
 
My last ride I had a bunch of missed shifts from 1st to 2nd gear and seems like it popped out of gear to neutral once. I'm going in to see if I've got a problem. This forum is great for info, but I wanted to post some pictures to see if I've got my facts sorted.

Is the A arrow the location of the loosening hex screw?

StarShiftA.jpg


And lastly is this the power valve actuator groove?

PowerValveGroove.jpg

Thanks,
 
Thanks guys. Any issues with side cover and power valve gaskets? Are these reusable or are they fragile and will need replacing?
 
As careful as I could be, I still tore the PV gasket and clutch cover gasket. You might get lucky though.
 
Good job getting in there and tearing s!@t apart! I love to read about someones adventure into the "unknown". My 12 wr 300 did the same thing after about 20 miles. Apparently the shift drum star installer guy at the factory is slacking. Next thing you know youll be splitting cases in your sleep.
 
After looking thru the excellent five language manual I didn't see which way the nut unthreads. I did find the clutch section and it shows a nifty picture of how to use the tools, just not the loosening direction. If this nut is standard then its lefty loosey righty tighty. Is this nut standard or reverse threaded?
 
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