robertaccio
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Kyle gave the correct answer its 100% based on what the rider wants and needs for the conditions and for his or her skill level base.
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
TXC310R since ZipTy Racing work completed (back story)
- Thread starter robertaccio
- Start date
Husqvarna
Ok rear static sag 30 and rider 100 so got near perfect, I took 2 off comp and put 2 on rebound n seems ok but still quite firm.
Front.. static 24 and rider 46 so wayyyy out according to Vinduro
Ive been told to try 3w oil but this wont help the sag I presume
Standard front spring 4.6 I think a 4.2 is needed!
Also at which point of travel do the Merge racing little springs work?
As for valving I race Uk enduro at a medium pace but im liking the firmer front compared to my 450exc!
Can I not just removed a shim to soften also??
Front.. static 24 and rider 46 so wayyyy out according to Vinduro
Ive been told to try 3w oil but this wont help the sag I presume
Standard front spring 4.6 I think a 4.2 is needed!
Also at which point of travel do the Merge racing little springs work?
As for valving I race Uk enduro at a medium pace but im liking the firmer front compared to my 450exc!
Can I not just removed a shim to soften also??
Kyle Tarry
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Yeah, you probably should go to a softer spring in the front.
With CC forks, the oil in the chambers serves different purpose. In the outer chamber, oil level effects progression in the last third of travel, and the oil weight has very little effect except for at the very end of travel when you engage the bottoming cones. In the inner chamber, lower oil weight will reduce damping, particularly at small valve openings.
Removing "a shim" will not have a very big impact on damping.
For enduro use, I increase the float on the mid a little bit, stage the base valve, and adjust the face shims and clamp to suit the rider.
Before you go in and reshim, you should play with the clickers to get a feel for what you want to accomplish.
With CC forks, the oil in the chambers serves different purpose. In the outer chamber, oil level effects progression in the last third of travel, and the oil weight has very little effect except for at the very end of travel when you engage the bottoming cones. In the inner chamber, lower oil weight will reduce damping, particularly at small valve openings.
Removing "a shim" will not have a very big impact on damping.
For enduro use, I increase the float on the mid a little bit, stage the base valve, and adjust the face shims and clamp to suit the rider.
Before you go in and reshim, you should play with the clickers to get a feel for what you want to accomplish.
Thanks for reply do u have any pics as to which are the parts u are talking about, i.e. "I increase the float on the mid a little bit, stage the base valve, and adjust the face shims and clamp to suit the rider." thanks in advance and i have tried the clickers and took 2 off compression and added 2 on rebound (same as rear) to get the best feel but going further on the fork compression i found it wishy washy and not so sure footed and didnt like
robertaccio
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Did a tough one ride last saturday, bike worked flawlessly. we did some uglies and she never skipped a beat, torque from that little motor is un believeable, I trying to ride a gear up and keep it smooth and she just pulls calmly and smoothly, very nice. This weekend I will do a couple of fork clicker adjustments, for the Tecate HS I took 2 clicks from fork comp and now after the sharp rock stuff we did I will try a couple more, small changes only. All else is as I got it back from ZipTy.
You might want to check this thread.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/im...ivers-on-my-02-cr250.39620/page-3#post-382380
OK i removed 2 comp shims and it made a huge difference maybe too much so im going to put one back, do i need to re-bleed or can i remove the inner chamber whilst forks still attached and place back in as the oil will be at correct level and any air will bleed out upon compression i presume?
ray_ray
Mini-Sponsor
Not sure but I'll be looking into my forks one of these days ... You should be doing a pic thread on just tearing the forks down if you have the time ... And include any bleeding process that is needed ... We already have a pinned method for the Marzocchi forks sold before the KYBs arrived ...
UPDATE. Ive found my front static goes from 25mm to 45mm with the 1st 2 comp shims removed and takes away the harshness, i added 1 back n didnt like so reverted back to this set up and will tinker with the clicks again!
Kyle Tarry
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Removing shims doesn't effect sag; something is funky with the measurements. Fork sag can be really hard to measure consistently, because they is so much more drag than in the rear linkage.
Yeh mate i think when i measured before the front spindle was sticking so forks not aligning and sticking slightly, ive bought some SKF seals and dust seals to fit shortly to aid stiction and ride.
Removing the shims worked wonders on the ride on small hits just smoothed them out like the Marge racing spring are supposed to do!
Kyle Tarry
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Cheers, that's good to hear!
For what it's worth, you can also make some nice changes to those forks by adjusting the midvalve, especially the amount of float. The TXC310 I did was fairly tight on the stock mid, so depending on your usage that can be a very effective place to make adjustments. Small increments here, it is very sensitive.
Also, I don't know what your bike's fork looks like, but a 2-stage base valve can be really helpful for woods work. You would just insert a crossover shim between the low speed stack (all the face shims) and the high speed stack (the tapered portion).
Or, you can just send them to ZipTy.
Those new seals and proper fork alignment will be a big improvement!
For what it's worth, you can also make some nice changes to those forks by adjusting the midvalve, especially the amount of float. The TXC310 I did was fairly tight on the stock mid, so depending on your usage that can be a very effective place to make adjustments. Small increments here, it is very sensitive.
Also, I don't know what your bike's fork looks like, but a 2-stage base valve can be really helpful for woods work. You would just insert a crossover shim between the low speed stack (all the face shims) and the high speed stack (the tapered portion).
Or, you can just send them to ZipTy.
Those new seals and proper fork alignment will be a big improvement!
Im in the UK so trying to sort myself as prefer to know whats going on.
The comp stack was my local suspension shops idea when they saw how many shims were there, i like the firmness after the initial travel also and the other options u suggest would be good to try but unsure of what i would need.
I race local enduros and go trail riding once a month but like the ability to go to the MX track also as my KTM EXC was too soft for that
The comp stack was my local suspension shops idea when they saw how many shims were there, i like the firmness after the initial travel also and the other options u suggest would be good to try but unsure of what i would need.
I race local enduros and go trail riding once a month but like the ability to go to the MX track also as my KTM EXC was too soft for that