• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TXC310R since ZipTy Racing work completed (back story)

robertaccio

Husqvarna
Pro Class
A much used word that applied here. amazing. game level raised, fatigue level reduced, speed up, all good. Bike is now seriously dialed in motor wise and suspension wise. ZipTy did a full rebuild, with new rings, replated cylinder and all the seals and other bits needed, of course a full head cleaning and valve exam too, did the clutch basket bushing mod, crankshaft mod, remapped the ecu and installed full FMF system with enduro sound safe dB-S/A plug installed.
I did not make big issues concerning this big time fail of my 2013 TXC310R that I bought for a stud deal fresh from the factory demo thrash fest, shtuff happens and I was racing her in a tough course HS...... she was working good until that local HS in Mexico when we finished second 45+ open, but with some ugly engine noises heard during the race.....I even rode the bike the following weekend as well( can you say zero oil pressure.
Prepping for the Idaho City qualifier to be with my Cafe Husky PNW bros....I found a major load of metal on my mag plug.
fast forward. tore the engine down to find that the crankshaft mounted oil pump gear and its mating idler gear had stripped all the teeth off, both gears were discs... the oil pump shaft gear was fine. After teardown it was decided to bring my basket case up to the race shop for a full rebuild and complete reassembly to race ready condition.
I recieved the bike back from ZipTy drove back to SD rode up and down the block dumped the break in oil and put fresh oil in then promptly went down to baja for a 2 day trail ride with zero issues about 200 miles total, most was good break in riding, some was ugly single track. changed oil again and have 3 more rides on her now. Still getting more confident with the upgraded suspension, springs and valve job, the rear is not as noticble to me as I all ready had my perfect sag spring installed but the front with the spring .48 and valve stack change is phenomenal.
Also note I used one ring projection on the fork the fork sag fits right into the vinduro spec (as does the rear).
Another note I use 13/52 final drive on my 310s and when I put the TXC back together I had a mismatched (13/52 cut for the 2011 310) chain that drove my axle about full forward, the bike felt a little strange and I knew I wanted more axle to axle wheellbase length. I grabbed a new chain and cut it to get the axle as far back as I could @ 3/4 at best back on the adjustment, I really wanted more but thats where I could go------big differnce in weight/suspension leverage transfer handling into corners. Thats an FYI.
also Im using those RK thin series gold chains, DID makes one as well, great stuff, low drag. does not tear into the guides as much (only downside $$ but you get what you pay for).
 
Great stuff :) can I ask why your running the fork legs with 1 ring showing? From what I have read a lot of guys run 2 rings.

Cheers
 
No more than a few mm (degree change/weight loading) for me no matter where I ride. balance between, rear/front front/rear personal preference
 
He's got more 'sag' in the front and more weight on the front with the axle slid back a little - so 1 ring makes sense.
I'm almost ready to pull the trigger at ZipTy for the same treatment on my 12 model.
 
Cool thanks :)
Just to confirm, 1 ring showing so the second ring is flush with top of triple clamps?

Cheers
 
no I ride on the the first ring so what is it i never measured 5mm (@?) we just rode a very twisty like no more than 10 yards between 90 degree or more corners and the bike is just flowing now, very very good
 
Russ,
With the FMF pipe she does feels more free...is that a good term? For my skill level and what we ride, but honestly I did not really need the FMF pipe.
#1 I had ZipTy install the plug- dB-S/A quiet plug so she passes enduro sound checks.
If I run the pipe "open" I am sure the thing will flat MX style riiip.

But like I stated, for the rocky, tight stuff that I prefer (read slower speed trails) where torque and easy ridability is what I want, the stock pipe would have been just fine and was. Also the FMF pipe as I installed it does not even save much weight, just a little bit. (Not like the weight savings I got on my 2011 TE310 by using the TC250 muffler @ 4lbs lighter).
So for most the stock Leo Vince pipe is a more than good option. And the ECU can be tuned for the open map and the dB plug can be removed for max power setting if thats what you want.
I really got the FMF because I won a super good sales price FMF contingency award deal from my 2012 Tecate HS podium. Which got me the system for less than my sponsor shop could get it to me for, so I went for it.
My current set up is LeoVince open ECU map with the FMF powercore/powerbomb sytem with the dB/S/A plug installed, 34 turns out on the Idle adjust per the OEM owners manual.
Answer yes the FMF pipe does make a difference, if I had to buy it at retail, no I would not have bought it the OEM LeoVince is more than sufficient for us 99% riders. RN
 
Cool beans. I'm about to pull the trigger on fork/ shock springs and valves myself. The stock set up is bottoming out pretty bad with my 6'2" 210lb frame.
 
A much used word that applied here. amazing. game level raised, fatigue level reduced, speed up, all good. Bike is now seriously dialed in motor wise and suspension wise. ZipTy did a full rebuild, with new rings, replated cylinder and all the seals and other bits needed, of course a full head cleaning and valve exam too, did the clutch basket bushing mod, crankshaft mod, remapped the ecu and installed full FMF system with enduro sound safe dB-S/A plug installed.
I did not make big issues concerning this big time fail of my 2013 TXC310R that I bought for a stud deal fresh from the factory demo thrash fest, shtuff happens and I was racing her in a tough course HS...... she was working good until that local HS in Mexico when we finished second 45+ open, but with some ugly engine noises heard during the race.....I even rode the bike the following weekend as well( can you say zero oil pressure.
Prepping for the Idaho City qualifier to be with my Cafe Husky PNW bros....I found a major load of metal on my mag plug.
fast forward. tore the engine down to find that the crankshaft mounted oil pump gear and its mating idler gear had stripped all the teeth off, both gears were discs... the oil pump shaft gear was fine. After teardown it was decided to bring my basket case up to the race shop for a full rebuild and complete reassembly to race ready condition.
I recieved the bike back from ZipTy drove back to SD rode up and down the block dumped the break in oil and put fresh oil in then promptly went down to baja for a 2 day trail ride with zero issues about 200 miles total, most was good break in riding, some was ugly single track. changed oil again and have 3 more rides on her now. Still getting more confident with the upgraded suspension, springs and valve job, the rear is not as noticble to me as I all ready had my perfect sag spring installed but the front with the spring .48 and valve stack change is phenomenal.
Also note I used one ring projection on the fork the fork sag fits right into the vinduro spec (as does the rear).
Another note I use 13/52 final drive on my 310s and when I put the TXC back together I had a mismatched (13/52 cut for the 2011 310) chain that drove my axle about full forward, the bike felt a little strange and I knew I wanted more axle to axle wheellbase length. I grabbed a new chain and cut it to get the axle as far back as I could @ 3/4 at best back on the adjustment, I really wanted more but thats where I could go------big differnce in weight/suspension leverage transfer handling into corners. Thats an FYI.
also Im using those RK thin series gold chains, DID makes one as well, great stuff, low drag. does not tear into the guides as much (only downside $$ but you get what you pay for).



Hi i have a TXC 250 2013 and im 175 lbs without gear and have had a issue with the front forks and posted on here but need to try another thread as no reply on last. After stripping and replacing the bad 'thick' oil in the forks i have a new found confidence in the front end, BUT the standard forks are 4.6 and ive read that i need 4.2 as i have VERY little sag, ive also been advised upon the Merge Racing small spring and a re-valve.

So the question is WHAT re-valving is needed and is the 4.2 the best direction with a Merge spring also?

Thanks in adavance
 
Are you sure you have 46 rate springs? Are they stamped? A little birdy told me that Husky started putting 48 rates is all their forks for 13 and 14 model years. Might explain the lack of sag for your weight.
 
Are you sure you have 46 rate springs? Are they stamped? A little birdy told me that Husky started putting 48 rates is all their forks for 13 and 14 model years. Might explain the lack of sag for your weight.


Hmm no havent checked if stamped will enquire, seems strange to fit them so heavy when i know KTM use the average rider as my weight!

Anyone else know anything with regards best set up thanks
 
Robert's 310 engine has had complete ZipTy mod overhaul. Updated clutch and crank mod with a full head rebuild. The Head was rebuilt with new valve, spring and seat kit with a flow tech ported head and machined burn chamber, +43HP. Suspension allows you to keep it under control no matter how far you twist the throttle. Reminds me of a Husky chainsaw, you can beat them and they just keep going.
 
Ive been informed fitting 3w oil and 320ml in the outer plushes it up, as im in the UK obviously its colder here! Anymore ideas people? Thanks
 
Robert's 310 engine has had complete ZipTy mod overhaul. Updated clutch and crank mod with a full head rebuild. The Head was rebuilt with new valve, spring and seat kit with a flow tech ported head and machined burn chamber, +43HP. Suspension allows you to keep it under control no matter how far you twist the throttle. Reminds me of a Husky chainsaw, you can beat them and they just keep going.

How much HP does the stock 13 TXC 310 put out ?
 
So the question is WHAT re-valving is needed and is the 4.2 the best direction with a Merge spring

The needed revalving depends on the rider, the terrain, and what the rider wants the bike to do. That's really only a question you can answer, not one that someone else can answer.

I've done a TXC310, and I can say that they are set up for GNCC/Scramble/Desert racing at a relatively fast speed, in my opinion. The one I did was for a casual trail rider, and I went quite a bit softer on both ends.
 
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