TXC310R it gets no better. Zip Ty Racing spa treatment.

[robertaccio]

You can shim the front tank mount. The TXC I believe has phillips head screws, and while lower profile than the TE's hex heads, both can be replaced with a 3mm button allen head. 1/2 ID hardened washers or Zip Ty's 5mm spacers will get you some spacing. I am contemplating grinding the top of the water pump to offer better clearance for the left side petcock fule line barb.

Hey all ZipTy Racing has smooth edged alloy (washer like) Fuel Tank spacers that add @ 8mm space for clearance.I attached them (3) over all the posts then glued the rubber washers on top. This got the entire deal clear of all chafes.​

 

[robertaccio]

13/14 TXC310R is in stock form the best hare scramble enduro bike for me period,.....after some tuning/set-up it's just freaking phenomenal! About the only complaint is the proximity of fuel pump access plate to the water pump output,....eats hoses like crazy but I don't feel like toting a 3gal aftermarket tank. Strongly considering dunking that lobe in a large boiling vat and re-shaping it,...but it's a gamble.

Other then that I can't see making it any better short of dropping 5-10lbs with exotic Ti fasteners and true works treatment.

Hey all ZipTy Racing has smooth edged alloy (washer like) Fuel Tank spacers that add @ 8mm space for clearance.I attached them (3) over all the posts then glued the rubber washers on top. This got the entire deal clear of all chafes.​

 

[Johnrg]

After looking all over last night... I also may add some spacers to the rear mounts as Robert mentioned. As far as spacing and plastics that's an issue for me as my right side barely slots into the upper tank plastic. Strange one shroud has a longer tab than the opposite side but it is what it is and why I shimmed just shy of not fitting. Now if Husky had done their fitting and spacing prior to production..... Maybe tanks were designed before final top end engine work was done and then they all left on holidays while all went into production.

 

[oregonsage]

Another cheater trick. Put a hose clamp around the hose right where the screw touches and cinch it down a bit, now any contact is screw to clamp and doesnt rub the hose.

 

[Bobby]

Another cheater trick. Put a hose clamp around the hose right where the screw touches and cinch it down a bit, now any contact is screw to clamp and doesnt rub the hose.

Been there done that,........the problem is the area that gets impacted is right where the ribbing/barb is on the water pump outlet. So instead of a pin hole from impact,...there will be a nice slice if you try to put a hose clamp as a buffer.

The real OEM fix would be to make a new water pump cover and re-index the outlet to get the necessary clearance from the fuel pump plate. I pitched it to Zip-Ty and he seemed to think it was a great idea but I'm afraid that's as far as it went. If more folks complained to the DOT on the TE models there would be a recall but spacing the tank up is not a fix, just a work around and not a good one at that.

 

[Bobby]

After looking all over last night... I also may add some spacers to the rear mounts as Robert mentioned. As far as spacing and plastics that's an issue for me as my right side barely slots into the upper tank plastic. Strange one shroud has a longer tab than the opposite side but it is what it is and why I shimmed just shy of not fitting. Now if Husky had done their fitting and spacing prior to production..... Maybe tanks were designed before final top end engine work was done and then they all left on holidays while all went into production.

The first "redhead" developed was the 2012 TC250 which had a 1.5gal tank and therefore a boat load of clearance from the fuel tank to the water pump housing. Then they integrated the Redhead into the TE and TXC line up, problem is they were racing them with either 1.5 gal tanks in WEC or 3 gallon tanks in extreme enduros/harescrambles. Not all Redhead TE/TXC's have a real big problem with the tank to radiator hose interference but the bikes that have just the right tolerances in frame and tank variances do have an issue. It's more of a problem for me because I always seem to take a dirt sample here and there, if I never crashed the lobe wouldn't probably flex enough to make contact with the waterpump outlet, but so far I'm on my 3 CV4 lower hose ;-(

 

[oregonsage]

Been there done that,........the problem is the area that gets impacted is right where the ribbing/barb is on the water pump outlet. So instead of a pin hole from impact,...there will be a nice slice if you try to put a hose clamp as a buffer.

The real OEM fix would be to make a new water pump cover and re-index the outlet to get the necessary clearance from the fuel pump plate. I pitched it to Zip-Ty and he seemed to think it was a great idea but I'm afraid that's as far as it went. If more folks complained to the DOT on the TE models there would be a recall but spacing the tank up is not a fix, just a work around and not a good one at that.

Hmmm...I get what you are saying, however it is a solution Ive been using all year with no ill effects yet.

 

[AndrewS]

Hey all ZipTy Racing has smooth edged alloy (washer like) Fuel Tank spacers that add @ 8mm space for clearance.I attached them (3) over all the posts then glued the rubber washers on top. This got the entire deal clear of all chafes.

Interesting... I wondered why there were 3, but figured it was to allow for adjustable spacing. I used 2 under the front mount. Now I wonder if it would be better to have one on each...

 

[Johnrg]

Just pulled my tank to check out the spacer options and replace my fuel sensor/petcock. I replaced my stack of (3) 2mm spacers with 1 Zip Ty 5mm spacer and put one of my 2mm on each peg on the rear with a couple of drops of shoe goo to keep them in place (each have the stock rubber washers under the metal. Spacing roughly the same as I had at the petcock, but right schroud fits 1 mm better. Note that the seat may or may not fit as easy since the spacers will lift the rear of the tank off it's rear most bumpers a bit, so try the front alone at first and then modify to suit. Your mileage will vary.

The spacers I am using... Zip Ty on the right and hardware store option on the left to fine tune.



2mm and 5mm.

 

[scratchpad]

Pulled my tank to put radiator braces on (PITA) and find the top left side of the cylinder head chewed up and a heavy divit on the water pump hose. The top bolt on my water pump has already been changed out on recall it appears.

Looks like i need a tank spacer kit in addition to the rubber washers. And then aligning the plastics will be another issue.

Will changing out the fuel and radiator hoses with silicone hoses and getting rid of the braided shit on the oem hoses help????

 

[Johnrg]

Someone posted a few weeks ago about his silicone hoses being fatter and more prone to damage. I would space as much as you can on the front tank mount keeping an eye on how your plastic fit on the front of the shrouds. I could only raise it 6mm or the shrouds no longer reached the slot on the right side (much shorter tab than the left for some bizarre reason???). Since rear tank height never changed, alignment to plastics in back improved due to angle of the tank when spaced. I did change spacers adding thinner ones in back to see what others were doing and if that might improve fitment (-1mm in front and up 2mm in back). Not really... made the sidepanel alignment worse and raises the rear tank bumpers 2mm from frame, making seat fitment worse. OK, but worse. I ended up with same 2-3mm spacing above petcock barb and more over the hose.

So grab a bunch of spacers as well as a 3mm button head allen screw for the underside of the tank and possibly smooth the hard plastic edge over the hose wirh something so any possible impacts won't chafe it. Another poster, maybe the one with the hose issue mentioned also countersinking the hole for the screw but the button head 3mm is nicely rounded and low profile.

 

[robertaccio]

you guys are way too surgical, just install the zipty spacers (one per mount spot (3)) or get some spacer washers at the hardware store and lift the tank a little for clearence. easy. plastic is light and flexible shrouds are light and flexible plastic warps gets misshapen no biggie . also note after installing the tank and matching the shrouds I always put some gorilla tape at the split line between the rad shroud and tank shroud, it keeps brush out and holds the pieces together, just consider it pre ride/ race bullet proofing. PS like it or not these x-lite platforms are a dead line, unless the Indians and Chinese continue to make them (looks like they are)

 

[robertaccio]

PS glue the spcers onto the frame mounts with the rubber washers glued on top.

 

[scratchpad]

Went to the hardware store and bought different thickness of stainless, nylon and rubber washers with identical inner and outer diameter measurements. With the front raised slightly i noticed the rear of the tank doesnt even touch down, even with the rear spaced. I buttoned everything up anyhow figuring with weight on the seat that'll change. Plastics didnt align that well, however i was still able to button them up. The worst fitment was the seat. It was tight fitting but leaves a gap towards the rear showing the tabs underneath. I'll probably take the rear spacers out and re-check. Even with the added spacers it didnt net much clearance for rubbing parts. Maybe a couple mm's and that also depends on how much the top tank bolt is torqued down.