• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Txc 310 Questions New Owner , New To Cafe

N

Narcoholic

Husqvarna
B Class
First off Thanks for bringing me aboard. So I purchased a 2013 TXC310 a couple weeks ago. Extremely clean , original tires less then 300 miles on it. I took it out and noticed what I'm sure everyone already knows here is the starter does not like to work when hot. I have read you can buy the new gears and install them. Is this the way to go or just kick it when it doesn't work ? Also I noticed the fan was never coming on ever though it was hot so I ordered a new sensor. Of course when I took the tank off i broke the plastic fuel line off the fuel pump. I ordered on of those. What does the second had twist knob at the bottom of the tank do ? (Not the fuel shut off.) After my fourth ride I got a pretty good oil leak on the left side. I have no idea of where it is coming from. When I got back to the house after riding I cleaned the bike off and now i can't find the leak, nothing coming out. I can't ride it yet as I'm waiting for the other parts. The oil was in between the sprocket and the stator case. I assume the seal at the drive sprocket but i could be wrong. Last question. Does anyone make different color tank plastics besides the red and black ? A lot of questions Sorry and thank for any input given. I do love this bike so far. I use to ride KTM's and I'm just getting back into riding after a 15 year hiatus.
 
See decompressor issues for starting issues. Tightening of the left exhaust valve clearance/shim can aid the decompressor and allow to turn over. Your leak may be the grommet where the wires come out of the left stator cover. Smear some sealant around the grommet or lean the bike to the right, pop the cover and seal that grommet. Both of these issues were problems on my 13 TE I am running still. Also have a look at your radiator hoses and water pump, making sure the tank is spaced anough so doesn't rub the fuel like, hit the left petcock or wear through the radiator hose. Some 1/2" 3mm thick shims on the front tank mount on the frame can help with this. Round thumbscrew and right side are both petcocks. Right side holds the gas level sensor. As far as fan not running... The sensor on the right side rear of cylinder usually was a replaced item, but also check the radiator cap for any leakage. Not a high pressure cap and stock can be found. I got one from Bill's earlier this year. Starter gears are a possible but only very early '13's needed them. A good dealer should have the docs showing vin numbers of affected bikes. Lastly a EarthX or other LI battery can aid with the small starter. Just don't abuse it. Try a kick or a bump to move it before trying the button again. In all likelihood it is the decompressor not actuating. I had to go slightly tighter than spec on that valve to get it working well. Hope this helps. Have not been on here for a few months.

Also if your under tank does have clearance issues and uses the large hex head screws, you can replace the once that are interfering with allen button heads. I think I used 3mm allen head. Radiator hose - a tight fit... | Cafe Husky
 
"Sometimes it wont crank at all. It either cranks or it doesn't."

That's what mine does now after replacing the starter gears battery and start relay. when you hit the stop button and hear a clack, it wont crank. otherwise it cranks and starts pretty well
 
dougn said:
"Sometimes it wont crank at all. It either cranks or it doesn't."

That's what mine does now after replacing the starter gears battery and start relay. when you hit the stop button and hear a clack, it wont crank. otherwise it cranks and starts pretty well
Click to expand...

It's the decompressor. Valve adjustment fixes it.
 
Thank You so much i will check that out. i'm definitely interested in the decompression valve as this is what it seems when trying to start it. I notice that its close to top dead center when i use the kick starter to start when not working. Has anyone tried the plastics from a TC of the same year to see if it fits with the TXC. they appear the same in pictures.

Johnrg said:
See decompressor issues for starting issues. Tightening of the left exhaust valve clearance/shim can aid the decompressor and allow to turn over. Your leak may be the grommet where the wires come out of the left stator cover. Smear some sealant around the grommet or lean the bike to the right, pop the cover and seal that grommet. Both of these issues were problems on my 13 TE I am running still. Also have a look at your radiator hoses and water pump, making sure the tank is spaced anough so doesn't rub the fuel like, hit the left petcock or wear through the radiator hose. Some 1/2" 3mm thick shims on the front tank mount on the frame can help with this. Round thumbscrew and right side are both petcocks. Right side holds the gas level sensor. As far as fan not running... The sensor on the right side rear of cylinder usually was a replaced item, but also check the radiator cap for any leakage. Not a high pressure cap and stock can be found. I got one from Bill's earlier this year. Starter gears are a possible but only very early '13's needed them. A good dealer should have the docs showing vin numbers of affected bikes. Lastly a EarthX or other LI battery can aid with the small starter. Just don't abuse it. Try a kick or a bump to move it before trying the button again. In all likelihood it is the decompressor not actuating. I had to go slightly tighter than spec on that valve to get it working well. Hope this helps. Have not been on here for a few months.

Also if your under tank does have clearance issues and uses the large hex head screws, you can replace the once that are interfering with allen button heads. I think I used 3mm allen head. Radiator hose - a tight fit... | Cafe Husky
Click to expand...
 
mine wont start when close to TDC also. I'm going to shim the valves .05mm tighter. yes the plastics from a TC will work
 
This video I made may help.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKZjIt-vMV8


The issue with my bike was the worm and ring/spur gear. It was a known issue with the hard facing wearing out and the subject of a recall.
The upgraded parts now have a DLC (diamond-like carbon) coating for improved durability and wear resistance. I bought the newer versions from Hall Cycles (https://www.halls-cycles.com)
  • Starter Ring gear part# 8539628
  • Starter worm gear part# 8539629
I would also order new woodruff keys for the flywheel and starter bevel drive as they are likely to be sheared. You will also need the special flywheel puller (8000H2146) to access the ring gear.
If the one-way clutch needs replacing you can find them cheap on eBay. Search for a "starter clutch for 2005 Honda". The Honda part number is 28125-MT7-004. They are a common unit in many different manufacturers bikes.
 
Update, I got the new plastic fuel piece back on the tank and the new fan sensor and the fan is working Yeah. I pulled the side cover and silicone'd the electrical wire that comes through it hopefully this ends the oil leak. How hot does your guys exhaust pipe get. I was letting the bike sit and get hot enough for the fan to come on and I was revving the motor to get it hot and noticed the exhaust pipe getting red hot. I know its hot but is it light glowing hot ? Seems lean to be that hot no?
 
Narcoholic said:
Update, I got the new plastic fuel piece back on the tank and the new fan sensor and the fan is working Yeah. I pulled the side cover and silicone'd the electrical wire that comes through it hopefully this ends the oil leak. How hot does your guys exhaust pipe get. I was letting the bike sit and get hot enough for the fan to come on and I was revving the motor to get it hot and noticed the exhaust pipe getting red hot. I know its hot but is it light glowing hot ? Seems lean to be that hot no?
Click to expand...
Yes - they get hot, red hot. It's normal.
 
To replace these parts do you have to split the cases ? Or can you replace them from pulling off the side cover ? I really have no want to split the cases. I would rather kick then do that. Great video and TY

hhdwtmtw said:
This video I made may help.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKZjIt-vMV8


The issue with my bike was the worm and ring/spur gear. It was a known issue with the hard facing wearing out and the subject of a recall.
The upgraded parts now have a DLC (diamond-like carbon) coating for improved durability and wear resistance. I bought the newer versions from Hall Cycles (https://www.halls-cycles.com)
  • Starter Ring gear part# 8539628
  • Starter worm gear part# 8539629
I would also order new woodruff keys for the flywheel and starter bevel drive as they are likely to be sheared. You will also need the special flywheel puller (8000H2146) to access the ring gear.

If the one-way clutch needs replacing you can find them cheap on eBay. Search for a "starter clutch for 2005 Honda". The Honda part number is 28125-MT7-004. They are a common unit in many different manufacturers bikes.
Click to expand...
 
Narcoholic said:
To replace these parts do you have to split the cases ? Or can you replace them from pulling off the side cover ? I really have no want to split the cases. I would rather kick then do that. Great video and TY
Click to expand...

No need to split the cases. Just remove the flywheel cover and undo the 4 bolts holding the stater motor and 90 degree bevel gear.
 
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