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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
TXC 250 main bearing failure, engine noise
- Thread starter macwood
- Start date
MC, do you know your bearings are bad? I got this noise while running under load around 3500-5000. It's louder with the skid plate on because it reflects the noise up at the engine. I have only had this bike for a short time, bought it used with 250 miles on it.
Toy Tech is my local dealer also
Toy Tech is my local dealer also
J.R.
Husqvarna
AA Class
I've just been reading through a couple of these posts.. Regarding main bearings between 250 and 450/510. In case there is any confusion, they use different size main bearings. I found that by looking at various engines I have torn apart and by looking at parts fiches for various models..
So which bearing is the "FAG 6206.2ZR.C3" for? Do we have pics of the machined/ready to use bearings?
So which bearing is the "FAG 6206.2ZR.C3" for? Do we have pics of the machined/ready to use bearings?
MChammer
Husqvarna
AA Class
Towpro...I do not know that my mains are bad as I am currently running the bike. When I had the bike in for inspection in December, Chris said he didn't like the noise coming from the case...said to check a few things externally (which I did) but he suspects crank or main bearing problems. I figured I'd pull the motor to save me a few $ and give it to him to do the rebuild...handing him George's main bearing to use. Scott and Chris are ok with this (Scott said if the bearing come from George, he'll use them). Even if Chris (the mechanic for those of you who don't know Toy Tech) gets in there and finds it's not the mains, I want them replaced. I do fear it is them though, because it is getting louder and just sounds "down deep" if that makes sense.
What has me disappointed with all this is that when the bike was 16 months old with 2,636 miles/131 hours as the original 250, the crank bearings went south and that's when I did the 310 kit - replacing the mains, oil pump, etc while in there. In hind sight, that was totally my fault because I wrung that poor thing's neck with high RPMs on the road - not realizing I was doing damage. Now 2 years later with an additional 1,000 miles and 60 hours on it, I've got bottom-end noises again, but this time it's not because of operator error....I've been off the RPMs since I learned my lesson. I'm thinking that when the rebuild was done, a set of these knock-off bearings got into my bike......
Do I also have to worry about knockoff bearings for the crank too???
What has me disappointed with all this is that when the bike was 16 months old with 2,636 miles/131 hours as the original 250, the crank bearings went south and that's when I did the 310 kit - replacing the mains, oil pump, etc while in there. In hind sight, that was totally my fault because I wrung that poor thing's neck with high RPMs on the road - not realizing I was doing damage. Now 2 years later with an additional 1,000 miles and 60 hours on it, I've got bottom-end noises again, but this time it's not because of operator error....I've been off the RPMs since I learned my lesson. I'm thinking that when the rebuild was done, a set of these knock-off bearings got into my bike......
Do I also have to worry about knockoff bearings for the crank too???
I understand. I need to make an appointment with Chris to get the ECM reprogrammed on my 08 TE 250 . When I have it there I will have him ride it to hear the noise. It's not at idle, but only when accelerating under load. I hardly ever ride it up above 6K rpm in the woods. It does seem to be getting worse in the 40 miles I have rode it.
Mine had 250 miles on it (but 20 hours) when I bough it 2 months ago. 250 miles divided by 20 hours is only 12mph. But I don't know if that 12mph was at 12000 rpm or not
The last owner was a flat track racer and this was his woods bike (that he hardly ever rode).
Mine had 250 miles on it (but 20 hours) when I bough it 2 months ago. 250 miles divided by 20 hours is only 12mph. But I don't know if that 12mph was at 12000 rpm or not
The last owner was a flat track racer and this was his woods bike (that he hardly ever rode).Hi MChammer thats right I bought the above mentioned bearings for $12 each and my mate machined the recess for the small retaining plate into outer housing, I think it was something like 1mm deep by 2mm wide but check against old ones to be sure. He didnt charge me for machining them but said it was simple to do, I think he used a harder than usual machining tip in his lathe.
The engine came apart a treat and I reused all the gaskets (which was only a few) with a smear of locktite gasket sealer to be sure except on the head gasket which is a multi layered steel one that when I cleaned it of oil looked as if it was new.
I think it would be a good idea about machining the bearings and marketing them as the OEM ones were over $100 and that would be all husqvarna would do and even there's fail. Yes I can see that the local shop would baulk at doing it especially when they can simply pass on the expense to you. I just got some swingarm and linkage bearings kits from "All Balls Racing " and they have good prices plus I saw they do sell crank bearing kits also but I didn't find any to suit what we are talking about but they would be in a great position to take on this bearing modification and market them.
ps check the keyway on crank that locks the timing gear as on mine it was loose and worn causing timing camchain noise, this gear is only held in place by a large spring behind the flywheel. Dont forget to locktite the bearing retaining plate bolts and there is a few others in there that you don't want coming loose.
The engine came apart a treat and I reused all the gaskets (which was only a few) with a smear of locktite gasket sealer to be sure except on the head gasket which is a multi layered steel one that when I cleaned it of oil looked as if it was new.
I think it would be a good idea about machining the bearings and marketing them as the OEM ones were over $100 and that would be all husqvarna would do and even there's fail. Yes I can see that the local shop would baulk at doing it especially when they can simply pass on the expense to you. I just got some swingarm and linkage bearings kits from "All Balls Racing " and they have good prices plus I saw they do sell crank bearing kits also but I didn't find any to suit what we are talking about but they would be in a great position to take on this bearing modification and market them.
ps check the keyway on crank that locks the timing gear as on mine it was loose and worn causing timing camchain noise, this gear is only held in place by a large spring behind the flywheel. Dont forget to locktite the bearing retaining plate bolts and there is a few others in there that you don't want coming loose.
and what about the plate that is removed from the bearing side? Which side is removed and does it just pop out?Thats what they cost me here in Australia, they are a very common size bearing, I dont know where they were made,
how can you tell and what do they cost you George.
I took off the inside seal off but I think the original bearing had no seals.
Before you split the motor you can look down and see some of the lhs bearing, try to see what the actual cage is like , mine was gone!!!
Another indicator is if you GENTLY lever the flywheel in different directions (up, down , left , right) checking for movement if cage has gone and all the balls are
sitting together movement at flywheel will be evident
how can you tell and what do they cost you George.
I took off the inside seal off but I think the original bearing had no seals.
Before you split the motor you can look down and see some of the lhs bearing, try to see what the actual cage is like , mine was gone!!!
Another indicator is if you GENTLY lever the flywheel in different directions (up, down , left , right) checking for movement if cage has gone and all the balls are
sitting together movement at flywheel will be evident
Genuine cost between $65.00-$69.00 + freight This is dist cost or below. Same sized bearings different grades for space shuttle like applications into the thousands per.
It's almost imposible to tell unless you can get someone at the bearing mfg to look at and disassemble them then test them.
I don't care about cost as I can no longer push my bike out of the Baja Desert. At my age don't like to kick them anymore either the magic button is the real deal.
Later George
It's almost imposible to tell unless you can get someone at the bearing mfg to look at and disassemble them then test them.
I don't care about cost as I can no longer push my bike out of the Baja Desert. At my age don't like to kick them anymore either the magic button is the real deal.
Later George
how many hours on bike and how hard do you rev it. My bike had 90 hours on it . The bearings are not very dear so I would be inclined to do them, the engine it really good to split. You may not see a lot of metal in oil or on plug, there is an area below crank and that is where my cage ended up. If it goes you will know about it as it will be fairly noisy / rattly especially at idle, I would not continue to ride, tow it or get the ute and a couple of bearings ++ and a bit of work and you are going again.
Looks fine, put them back in. The race was just slowing it down anyway. :>)