• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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two stroke oils

I bought out my local dealers original molded Suzuki oil tubing for oil injection. She was happy to get rid of it.
 
Ratio mixes.

As we go lower on the mix ratio were leaning the bike gas wise while adding more oil to the mix. We need to make sure the jetting isn't on the hairy edge of running too lean.
To run more in the upper area of the power band most of the time more oil is needed.

Since the left side of the crank bearing is lubed by the tranny gear oil and the right crank bearing is lubed by the 2t mix what can be done to give the right bearing more oil? Maybe the more oil the bearing sees it will allow the crankshaft to sling more oil around in the crankcase to lube the cylinder better?

Opening up the oil hole in the right case half and chamfering the top of the hole inside the case will allow more oil to the bearing. ???
 
do the swede huskies really have a problem with longevity with topends or bottom ends? it would be very hard to argue that the bottom ends have any issue, as the lower rod bearing and crank bearings often last a looooong time. making sure dirt doesnt get into the engine to harm these things may be a better use of time.
trying to improve the crank bearing life is trying to fix a problem that doesnt exist in my honest opinion...
 
Bigbill said:
Ratio mixes.

As we go lower on the mix ratio were leaning the bike gas wise while adding more oil to the mix. We need to make sure the jetting isn't on the hairy edge of running too lean.
Click to expand...

While this is true, the difference in fuel is so small it is insignificant to jetting.

justintendo said:
do the swede huskies really have a problem with longevity with topends or bottom ends?
Click to expand...

No, they dont.
 
Why not improve on it.

How many pump two stroke down the oil hole in the case before installing the cylinder to pre lube it? Do you pre lube the rod bearing and piston pin bearing?

I burnish a moly paste into the cylinder walls and piston skirt. Then I lube it with 2t oil during the assembly.

How about wetting the crank seals before installing the crankshaft. They need a pre lube too.
 
not doubting it but have never heard of the moly paste thing..but i figured it to be fairly automatic to put oil on the needle bearings and down the oil hole before assembly. i do the same to the transmission. i keep 2 small dropper squeeze bottles, one with bottom end oil and the other with klotz just to do this.
 
Moly.

Eliminates all wear
Reduces friction
Prevents galling
Fights corrosion
Doesn't attract dirt.

You burnish it into the mating parts so it's in the pores of the metal.

We put moly in my son's KDX220 on the refresh. A year later in checking it the piston and cylinder was still like new. I use moly in every application since 1970.
 
justintendo said:
not doubting it but have never heard of the moly paste thing..but i figured it to be fairly automatic to put oil on the needle bearings and down the oil hole before assembly. i do the same to the transmission. i keep 2 small dropper squeeze bottles, one with bottom end oil and the other with klotz just to do this.
Click to expand...


In my posts I try to educate our read only guys who are maybe just getting into repairing bikes and engines. Or the younger ones trying to dop his repairs. It's good that we exchange ideas but we have to pass the torch of knowledge to the new guys too.
 
these are the 3 main oils i use on my engine table, amsoil mc 10w30/10w40....klotz supertechniplate...and tapmagic
the tapmagic is awesome stuff for tapping, threading, or drilling. we drill alot of stainless and do alot of larger holes as well as tapping at work. this stuff rocks. the squeeze bottle are 30ml and a nice size for applying to bearings or fingertips to coat a part or even a cylinder wall without using too much.
i have been using rotella t6 5w40 in place of the amsoil due to availability/cost.
Photo670.jpg
 
Kartwheel68 said:
While this is true, the difference in fuel is so small it is insignificant to jetting.
Click to expand...

Yep.


I have found different oils more problematic than ratios. Lucas is much thicker than Amsoil for instance. Redline and Silkolene gave me fits. Spectro SX and Amsoil seem very tolerant and run well in everything. Simple observations of decades of trying stuff. Very non scientific feelings about shit :D
 
Bigbill said:
Moly.

Eliminates all wear
Reduces friction
Prevents galling
Fights corrosion
Doesn't attract dirt.

You burnish it into the mating parts so it's in the pores of the metal.

We put moly in my son's KDX220 on the refresh. A year later in checking it the piston and cylinder was still like new. I use moly in every application since 1970.
Click to expand...


Interesting. My only concern is I have been told over and over by engine builders how the very first run in of rings to a cylinder needs to be a bit rough for lack of better terms. The idea is you don't want the cylinder over lubed so the rings can "lap in" and you also want the motor to be under some load as to force them out towards the cylinder walls. You actually want a little wear right away to mate the ring to the cylinder and form a good seal. This happens quickly and test motors have shown the difference of compression depending on how you run them in initially. I realize there are MANY varying opinions about this subject but this makes sense to my small mind. I also feel you want a semi porous surface (hone marks etc) to hold oil on the cylinder. This is why you never see polished cylinders.
 
With the drag race engines as soon as the engine is up to temp and the timing is set it's 30 seconds of wide open to seat the rings. Never had a problem with moly.
 
Don't really think Moly Paste is intended for use in a live combustion environment. Moroso (high performance automotive suppies/ parts) specifically states NOT to use their moly paste on piston rings and cylinder walls. It may be a flash point issue, but not certain about that.
 
I'll make one more comment on oil injection ...It's nothing more than automation ... Automation flies jet airliners, controls anti-lock brakes, drives our cars, EFI is automation ...Oil injection is mechanical automation but still automation. The pump I supplied a pic of is a working pump, probably over a decade old. Many guys here never stopped using the injectors through all the years. :) ... I was knocked over to learn this. There was nobody standing there saying "The pump sucks so get rid of it".

Once automation is correct, it will do the correct thing every-time, forever pretty much. No time off, no pay raises, no sleep, no holiday pay. It just runs correctly. Git it? For the big wigs that were making bikes in Japan at this time, it had to be a huge huge huge step to remove that pump. Choosing to remove the one technical device on the bike that supplied life to the machine and giving that responsibility to the customer who knew much less or very little about what needed for oiling the engine, well, that was a gamble to say the least.

Water under the bridge but removing that device does not seem to be helping us today. Imagine EFI oiling (honda might have 30 yrs ago) ... Hard to do since you most likely have never run that thought between your ears. Emissions issues with GOVs probably played a hand with companies wanting to stop make 2t bikes ... They might would have stopped making 2t bikes anyway but you never know. We might have had better tools to wage the fight over emissions through the yrs with a modern device controlling the stuff (oil) everyone cries so much about.
 
Well Suzuki had the dual sport TS series 2t with oil injection in the seventies. At the same time there 2t TM dirt bikes were ratio mixed engines.
 
competition bikes do not have pumps as they are extra weight...why would they have them? as bill says the dual sport ts had them as they were not "performance" and the tm/rm bikes did not want to carry a full jug of premix around plus a pump. no mystery there! there are tons of snowmobiles running oil pumps with no problems for years in the states. most sleds are already heavy, use alot of fuel, and have the room, so they have injection pumps and reservoirs.
 
oil pumps were an advertising add on to remove peoples "issues" with mixing fuel. a survey showed that 4 bangers were becoming popular again cos they didn't need fuel mixing. so the two strokers simply thought.. how do I remove this hassle and sell more bikes....something like that.
 
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