• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

two stroke oils

Bigbill

Bigbill

Husqvarna
Pro Class
www.klemmvintage.com/oils.htm Please read lots of info that could explain seezing and what extends engine life. The rpm your running at changes the protection of your oil.
The 20:1 I plan on using with maxima 927 sounds good now.(a blend of synthetic/castor)

Please read this article.
 
At let's say we use a 40:1 mix. If you ride at full throttle the oil ratio and lubrication effectiveness lowers. A recommendation of 20:1 ratio if your at the high rpm most of the time. If your in the middle of the rpm range then 40:1 might be ok.
The pre-mix ratio we use can effectively extend the engine life. Or less engine life if we use the wrong mix ratio for our style of riding.

I'm learning too. The ratio of 2t oil we use is a science.

When the rpms go up the amount of lubrication goes down.

Jetting correctly helps but this high r p m gremlins is still there.

Ask why did my engine seize? The answers are in this article.
 
I built a 1985 Honda 125cr for my son two decades ago. It had porting, port timing changed, roost boost, reed box spacer. I leak tested it, crank bearings, seals/gaskets.
The engine was perfect every time we freshen it. We ran it at 40:1 using maxima super M. We seized the engine a few times while trying to figure out what's wrong. It would eat 250crs. He ran it wide open most of the time. This problem has haunted me all these many years. The 40:1 wasn't rich enough oil wise. It needed a 20:1 mix for his style of riding.

Everybody I asked about jetting years ago back then and what oil ratio they said pick a ratio number and jet it. This article proves that wrong. You need to adjust your pre-mix ratio to your style of riding and reject to that mix.

Lessons learned.
 
All I'm saying is you haven't any air leaks, the bearings, seals, gaskets and piston are new, it's bored correctly. It's jetted correctly(40:1). With everything brand new. Then why did it seize ?

High rpm less oil, no lube=seize. Simple when everything else has been double checked.
I beat my self up on this one for years. This has haunted me with the Honda. This bike wasn't for a beginner.

There's no chart for calculating what oil ratio to use to what rpm your running at.

This is why the old husqvarna factory says a 20:1 ratio is needed. Now we have better quality 2t oils today. But it reads like the 20:1 is still needed if your constantly running at the upper r p ms.

This is one reason for a seize.
 
so you are going to use 20:1 so you can run your husky like you are at willow springs? guys have a hard time flogging 130 horse bikes hard enough there.
how long are you planning on keeping your swede in the upper third of the rpm range?
 
There will be so much spooge coming out of your pipe at that ratio that there will be a puddle under your muffler. lol
 
Maxima used to have a good explanation of this along with a drawing showing oil migration on their site, but it's gone now. Their mix recommendations are based on engine speed and load, and it's more oil for higher RPM applications.
 
That's why you jet properly!

Main upper rpms

Pilot lower rpms

Your needle/ taper also designates how these over lap. Slow tapered needles give good steady power band.
Braaaaaaaaaaaaaap!

The thicker the needle the leaner.

The thinner the needle = richer.

Step taper needles usually have a hit in powerband. Bahhhh Wahhhh!

Slide based on airflow to fuel mixture. That's why when your limited to some Mikuni needles. You cut the slide for more air.

I have had great luck with Maxima 927 and also Amsoil Dominator. I've had a lot of bikes and proof is in pudding when you tear stuff down and everything is well oiled, but not your pipe/silencer full oil.
 
927 is my first choice, but I use Dominator now because it's less than half the price. It doesn't seem as oil covered on tear down, but I'm getting good ring life, so it must be working. Despite what Amsoil says, I'm mixing 32-1
 
I run 50:1 in my '70 Husky 400. This was based on conversations I have had with John at Vintage Husky. I trail ride and race in the western Nevada desert. Primary elevations range from 4500 to 6500 ft. jetted for that altitude. I use Yamalube and I have never had any issues with that fuel mix in the almost 2 years since I built the bike. Burns really clean and no splooge.
 
troy deck said:
danm watch the timer nobody in site in a Minuit and a lap in under 2:30 i know the track a little shorter an easier than the regular national track but DAMN just listen and watch the roost:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
scott burnworth is aptly named! former factory mx racer
 
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