• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Twin Leading Shoe Cam Ajustment

1982 XC 430

1982 XC 430

Husqvarna
AA Class
Last Winter I built my 83 250 CR works replica. The one thing I just threw together was the front Brake. On the two rides I have ridden the bike the front proves to be totally worthless. The Steel Drum is badly pitted and will probably need to be replaced. I hope to ride it this weekend and plan to work over what I have. I will check the wear pattern on the shoes and drum and sand them in as necessary. The one thing I'm not sure about is the adjustment of the Cams. I just adjusted them so that they were parallel when I put them together. How else would one do it ?
 
back off/ take off the linkage/adjuster rod . wind the cable adjusters untill the one shoe starts to drag . back it off till it doesnt . then adjust the linkage rod till the other pad does the same .

then you know both pads are same distance from lining / both getting used .

i just made that up right then . makes sense to me . no doubt others might have other ways

aside from truing the drum and arcing the pads etc .

my cr500 only has a sls front brake . really need to give it some tlc to make it the best it can be
 
The twin shoe is really worth having . Once it set up just has a great feel. It progressive and just helps
make the bike stop.

If needed there is a shop that puts an insert/ sleeve in the hub itself to restore to better than new.
 
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It also is imperative to have the backing plate sleeved for the cam actuator. Play within that in itself impairs the braking effectiveness
 
It also helps a lot to have a larger linkage rod between the two cam arms, the stock rod can flex making all your delicate adjustments worthless.
 
What brake shoes do people find work the best? I use the EBC from Phil in U.S. Is there a better supply?
 
Think I will end up using a different Hub that has a better Brake Liner in it. I assume that the Hub stayed the same as the single arm brakes of the same era. If not who would I send the Hub to to have a new Liner installed ?
I have the EBC Grooved Brake Shoes. What other brands are available ? I realize that people have good luck with these Shoes. I however have not. Back in the day I had a 82 Suzuki 175 and I would put a new set of Shoes in and they would work fine until the first water crossing then I would have no brakes till I replaced them. When I restore a Vintage Bike I consider a good deal when the original Shoes are in good enough shape to use again so that I don't have to buy replacements that won't work as well.
This bike was a very low hour Bike that still had the original rear Tire on it. The Bushings on the Brake Plate are in very good condition. On tear down one of the only parts that had any wear at all wear the front Brake Shoes. They were completely gone just about down to the Backing Plates.
 
No, the hubs are different. One has a slightly smaller brake drum ID than the other but I cant remember which is which. The backing plates have a lip on the outside that goes on the outside of a raised ridge on the hub, if you machine off the lip on the backing plate you can use either backing plate with either hub, but it is not a direct bolt together.
 
Anybody know what the Steel Liner inside the Brake Hub is made of besides Mild Steel ? I have a Lathe and I could make my own. That is unless its some sort of real hard material.
The Front Brake deal is no longer the big deal. Seized the Bike up today on the back Straight at Riverdale Washington. I think its a Piston Seize as the Bike acted as if it was running out of Gas and didn't just lock up the rear Tire.
 
Woody Graves of Woody's Vintage GP replaces liners using engine cylinder liners and turning them down to fit each application.
 
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