• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Tuning the 50mm TC fork

N

NWRider

Husqvarna
AA Class
I recently purchased a 09 WR150 and it has the twin chamber 50s on it(like some TXC and TC models).

I’ve ridden another bike with these forks with a LTR revalve and they were real nice. But before I send them off I am wondering if the valving is the problem or just the assembly.

I read the thread on bleeding the inner chamber and another on adding some preload. If the stock valving is decent I might work on them first.
Has anyone done all they could (bleed inner chamber, different weight oil, correct springs, etc) to these forks and what were the results? If you later sent them to be professionally revalved how did they compare?
 
I have done the springs, 5w torco oil, bled the inner chambers, and adjusted the pre-load.

I have not sent them in for a re-valve, yet...

I love them, for racing and aggressive riding, pushing 95% or more. They are fantastic for that. controlled, plush, and good bottoming resistance.

When I back it down to 75% they are too stiff for trail riding, even with the clickers all the way out. I have tested and tweaked, just can't get that dialed out with the clickers alone. That goes for the rear shock as well.

I am torn do I take them to the local tuner, Pro motion or send them to LTR? I ride with Dave from Pro motion and I know he will do whatever it takes to make me happy. LTR has a stellar reputation on these forks, and I am sure would offer the same service but there is that whole long distance thing.

And then there is the whole $$$ thing...:lol:

Later,
 
Hmmm, so they are still a bit stiff. Are you too light for the springs or do you think it's a valving/friction issue? I am 195 and I thought the springs felt stiff but when I grab a handful of brake it dives far and it also sags decent when I ride so I think they are maybe too soft if anything.
 
Well, according to the spring mfg I think they said they were too stiff, stiffer than what Kelly has in his WR. They are the progressive cannon racecraft springs Kelly sells. I tried the next step softer and they were better on the trails but I had bottoming issues at MX with the comp almost max stiff.

Maybe I am asking too much trying to get a plush off road setup for trail riding and a MX setup in the same fork.

They really are awesome for racing hare scrambles, MX, and aggressive riding. I just end up riding the WR more for trail riding, it is not nearly as fast or flashy as the TXC but is is awesome on long rides.

I really like working on these forks and have fork seals down well. Just did Shanes 125 fork seals last night. Took less than 2 hours start to finish. I have the seal driver for them if you ever need to use it let me know.

If only I had a clue about valving...

Later,
 
http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3498

This is the link to the bleeding process ... It fixed some harshness and deflecting issues on my forks ... I also used 5wt oil in both the inner and outers ....

I dropped the oil volume to 275ML in the outer to further reduce harshness on the trails ... I mght need to go another 5-10ML to get a slightly softer feel OR gotta go a few clicks on the compression again ... reducing oil volume also reduces bottoming resistance for jumping if you are going on the track ...

My sag was reduced to ~25mm also with the clip ring on the inside forks ... this is a little on the short side but works for me ... I just kept adding pre-load till the forks stood up in the upper portion of the stroke ...

I'm about 45lbs < than you so our spring setting must likely will be different ... I'd say try the pre-load clips and then go to the springs next iif you can't get what you are looking after ... Oil volume in the outer tubes can set for add plushness or bottoming resistance next ... These forks are very good and one of the few types I had ever read anything other than to reach for ur wallet ...

I'm with Jake, mine dialed in pretty much and with only oil changes \ clickers and these are forks U can work with ...
 
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