• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Truing crank on cr165 rebuild

P

Pedec

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I have a local friend that is rebuilding my motor after connecting rod went he is a local shops mechanic . He is having a hard time to get crank true. His dad owns local machine shop and was helping and still can not get it within spec. He said old rod came of crank easy and went on easy also. I am not a mechanic but is there any special way to do it or tools needed so I can get him to read this post. Greg is afraid if I send it away to get trued it could get untrued in shipping. Thanks for any help.
 
I send my crank assemblies to a guy that has a crank jig. They come back true every time. When I used to do the work myself, I would mark the crank before I took it apart, so I had line up marks to help get it close, then used a lead mallet to smack it with. I don't have the patience for that kind of stuff anymore, so I just pay somebody with the right tools to do it, these days.
 
All cranks should be a half thousandth or less of runout. You'd be surprised at how much vibration you will get at one and half. I know!
 
If you are supporting it between centres then check the condition of the centre holes. May have been damaged when disassembled. If you can support it in a vee block type fixture and support the crank right where the bearings mount you may find a different reading. When in an engine a crankshaft rotates on bearings, not on centres.
 
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