• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Trick to linkage bearing install?

Glenn haynes

Glenn haynes

Husqvarna
AA Class
So what is the trick to installing new bearings in the linkage? Every bike I've ever done does not have a shoulder in the middle of linkage. You cannot simply press them out one end. A horrid design.I had to cut and chisel out bearings on one side to press out the other side.Any help for next time would be greatfull.
 
I had an 09 wr 300 and used tools loaned from auto zone to change. The blind hole puller set to remove, and the bearing driver set to install. It took a little muscle, but worked!
 
@Fred, simply pressing them out does not work until you get the one bearing out on the one side. I will have to look into the blindhole puller.
 
Using the puller, you get it installed into the bearing your are removing. It gives you a nice flat surface to press against, so you then press it out from the other side using a suitably small socket or extension or something. You don't have to whack away at it with a reverse action hammer, unless that's your thing.
 
I had the same issue - I didnt realise there was a ridge in the middle of the triangular linkage piece. Why they did that on that piece and not on the other fork like piece I dont know !!!
Blind puller is the only way to go.
 
dfeckel said:
Using the puller, you get it installed into the bearing your are removing. It gives you a nice flat surface to press against, so you then press it out from the other side using a suitably small socket or extension or something. You don't have to whack away at it with a reverse action hammer, unless that's your thing.
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Are you saying the puller opens up inside the bearing ?? . I thought it may fit in the gap in the middle between the two bearings
 
I haven't been in these links yet, but would it be wise to just bore it out straight thru while they are apart to ease the next service?
 
old3 said:
I haven't been in these links yet, but would it be wise to just bore it out straight thru while they are apart to ease the next service?
Click to expand...
I plan to do this next time its apart.I believe they put the bridge in there so you cannot cover the grease hole.
 
You have to use a blind bearing puller to remove the 4 needle bearings from the knuckle because of the bridge between the left and right opening that the bearings are seated against. You first insert only the collet making sure its flange is just below the bottom of bearing, then screw the tightner into the collet until you can tighten no more. Doing this expands the flange enough that you can't pull the collet out because it's firmly seated on the bottom of the bearing. Then you screw in the slide hammer into the tightner and begin slamming away. Don't be surprised if you bust the casing on these bearings. I did. No biggie if you're replacing them. Also, to ease removal, liberally apply heat to the knuckle before you insert the collet so the aluminum expands slightly. I use a small propane torch to do this. I get the knuckle very hot so that I have to wear leather gloves when handling it as I insert the collect and begin removing. Applying heat makes all the difference. Without it you likely can't remove the stock bearings even using the blind bearing puller. I ride a lot in the fall and winter when it's very wet here in the PNW and my stock linkage bearings were toast before 800 miles. Also, heat the knuckle again before you insert the new bearings and put the new bearings in the freezer for 15-30 minutes before installing them. This works very well and bearings should go in quite easily using a socket to get them flush. Good luck!
 
I had the same problem, not knowing there was a small shoulder. So the bearing was completly pressed, my blind bearing puller was worn so I could not get grip on the bearing. What I did was removing the bearing with a Dremel and a small utter mill by cutting through the outer ring from the bearing. Then it is no problem removing them with a screw driver. Do it careful and you will not harm your linkage
 
Not sure if this set-up is like the honda,,but I took a socket that was the same size as the outer race,put a larger socket bigger than the race on the other side,,put the whole assembly in a shop vise and squeezed the race out,,reverse order to install,,,you have to make sure everything is square before both procedures.. This procedure has worked for me from cars/trucks-bikes..Good luck..
 
K.Forte' said:
Not sure if this set-up is like the honda,,but I took a socket that was the same size as the outer race,put a larger socket bigger than the race on the other side,,put the whole assembly in a shop vise and squeezed the race out,,reverse order to install,,,you have to make sure everything is square before both procedures.. This procedure has worked for me from cars/trucks-bikes..Good luck..
Click to expand...

The Husky has blind bores so you can NOT press the bearing thru.
 
I'll be boring mine out if they fail and carefully pressing the replacements in to keep the grease passage clear of the bearings. They had the luxury of only assembling them! LOL!

Jim
 
Can,t you just take a metalsaw and saw right through the shoulder and bearing? I mean, what difference does it make if there is a small cut in the shoulder? This way you also relieve the tension in the bearing. That should make it possible to use a small screwdriver or something to hammer out the bearing. Why not make two Cuts opposite of eachother to be able to knock out the bearing evenly?
 
I know this may seem a bit rough and ready but always works for me on things like this, if you have a welding set of any sort just weld a bit of stud bar or long threaded bolt to the bearing, pop a deep socket or a piece of tube over the tube/socket and put a nut on top and just pull them out it takes minutes to do and causes no damage and beats pounding on the linkage.
 
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