• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

trans problems

Jo, thanks for that, the pins on mine are covered and in the pikkie above and IRL I can see there are two pins that are below the surface. I don't know if they can wander out the back side or if it's a blind hole, or if they are wandering deeper past the outside..I think the pins go thru a slot cut in the drum rather than the drum end being separate, so they have a way to go before they open a gap for the Y-piece to get stuck in...anyway, they aren't uncovered and coming out.

Justin, as to the split spring, I think the whole thing will get easier to shift with use, I could get it thru four upshifts and downshifts without having to use a 10mm wrench on the drum to encourage it..if the lever becomes too loose maybe I will wind the spring tighter so it goes back to neutral lever position quicker...right now with the engine not running and vibrating it does sometimes not go back to the neutral lever position after an up or downshift.

The lower picture above in comment #38 shows that spring and it's slot head shifter axle out of it's hidey hole...I couldn't duplicate that today but did get it out enough to see there was no burr as it looks around that hole in the picture, it is just a shiny spot on the case.
........................................................................

Today I cleaned and reassembled the clutch, the stuck shift lever is still stuck, soaking.
The clutch plates are brown coated metal plates with "Surflex" stamped on them, the other plates are a very hard aluminum with wear patterns visible which are hard to photograph. I can just feel the grooves.

I think I was inconsistent in taking them apart, cleaning, and putting them back together, I managed to confuse myself on a couple of plates, some plates may have been put in 'upside down'...they are symmetrical but the worn in spots won't match until new ones are made with use..shortening the useful life of the clutch by a bit. Oops...but I tried, just poorly executed...out of practice.
So a bit of new and needless wearing will be expected along with at least one clutch adjustment I would guess. I doubt it will be bad enough to slip before it wears in, we'll see.
I also amused myself by counting the teeth on the sprockets and primary gears and the transmission so as to calculate the actual gear ratios.
 
don't stress about the clutch plates, I pulled mine to bits, played a few hands of poker with them, practised my card tricks then put them all back together. no problems. I scuffed them up with a bit of #240 paper after a good scrub in bang water. check the basket fingers for grooves, they can cause the plates to stick a bit.
 
Dont play with the spring its in good nick and fitted correctly,the pins on the drum cannot come out as long as the washer partially covers the holes, the gearbox will free up with use, there are two orings on my gear lever shaft and the lever feels tight when tested with the cover removed but works fine when in motion.
 
heh, good advice, thanks!

cards, haha...

Yes, it all looked great, the basket tabs have no wear at all and neither did the plates except for some wear grooves.

Shift lever freed!..not bent, not heavily rusted, just enough to make it stick, cases good, clutch good, mechanism freed up

It was rusty between the O-rings and the rings were packed solid with rust powder and dust. It turns in a steel bushing, a thin sleeve, very nice.

Shift axle not bent, (altho the previous noted crash damage have damaged the axle and the case). I cleaned it all up, greased it, back in! woo hoo!

lots of dirt pockets in little corners...almost worth puttying these sharp corners up if I ever get to painting the case...what a lot of gunk that had to be dug out with a sharp point. Should not be that hard, that stuff should be able to be more easily washed and flushed and drained with oil changes.

Anyway, this is now the point where parts starting to be reassembled prepatory to attempted running.

.................................

also posted about this at my original thread '86 400 Enduro resurrection' thread. I will mostly continue that thread until it's running or, well, not.

I won't post so much here as long as the trans continues to work, limiting this to the trans issues even if duplicated a little.

I hope it's helped others here, this Noob knows this one has helped me get mine working, thanks very much y'all.
 
The screw on the drum stop lever, the y piece as you call it should have a bushing that's longer or thicker than the Y piece. This way the screw can be tightened up and the Shifter drum stop can still hinge.
 
Hey, yeah, like BigBill says, that bolt on the shifter drum is missing, what the heck?

and probably a bit of locktight, not the red..to make sure it doesn't wander.

Look at my tranny pikkies in comment #38 back on page2 to see that bolt.

Don't leave home without it, altho I haven't taken mine down that far to see what it does I used that bolt to gently rotate the drum which had started to freeze up from disuse..all ok now. The Y piece axle had started to freeze up as well, now loose and functional.
 
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