• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TR650 Mods

Toyboy

Toyboy

Husqvarna
AA Class
Thought I would start this thread. Not sure it qualifies for the farkle one. Add ons and accessories are one thing but mods to me another.
husky brake.jpghusky brake 3.jpg Having said that, I love to tinker and one thing I just have to change is the brake pedal so I am working on modifying the rear brake pedal.
I know Motosports skid plate will remedy the exposed wire issue but having said that, the under footpeg part just bugs me. My x challenge has it behind the footpeg or in between it and the frame and I noticed that the BMW twin F650GS and the 800GS have it over the pedal. The first picture is of teh 800 pedal mounted on my bike. Bolted right one with no issues. I am going to use the 800 return spring as well.
I found the brake light master switch to be at the very bottom of the footpeg mounting plate. Started looking and found some rear pedals for the F800GS on Ebay and sourced 3 of these. Figure I would need a spare in case I bugger the one up. I took a pic of it installed on the bike. Biggest thing I found is figuring out the brake light switch. Going to try 2 things. I sourced a used brake master for a TE with the brake light switch incorporated into the master cylinder and I may go that route. Second way is i am going to move the switch from it's current location and using one from the F800GS, I will relocate just the way it is installed on the 800. It is mounted on the outside of the foot peg plate with a cover.
Next thing is the pedal itself. Bolts up perfectly and may tweak it a little to clear the engine case or may cut and weld. Would rather not cut but will see how close it gets. The only needed mod is the the offset at the arm point is deeper than the F800GS. I think I could move the master on top of the plate and will try that too before I start cutting and welding. I am posting a few pics to giive the general idea of what i am talking about for those interested.
 

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The pedal on the bike is the F800GS one, the offset I am talking about on the original is in my hand. You can see the differences in the offset. May try to move the master to the outside of the frame and use the 800 cover. Will continue to post if there is any interest. Thanks
 
I would agree. Farkels you buy and mods you make with your own hands (sweat, blood, and tears optional). Can't wait to see that finished Toyboy!
 
Excellent! I'm thinking along the same lines, although I have a template for the brake lever that can be welded onto the stock pivot, and the stock brake switch could be used. I like the 630 master better, but changing the plumbing looked like a bit of work. 'Don't like the brake line running outside of the frame, but there doesn't appear to be a way to run it on the back side.

I like that the F800 spring looks like it works well. The stock spring can also be rotated according to the measurements I made.

One thing you might look at is to cut the offset from the stock lever and weld it onto the new lever, raising it to where it needs to be. That's what I am planning to do. The actuating rod can be cut and rethreaded to make the length right for the new offset location.

One more thing we need to address it the radiator slipping off of the lower stud as has happened to a number of riders. It looks like a small bracket can be fabricated from 1x1x1/8 aluminum angle and just screwed to the front down plate. Fasten one leg to the plate, and cut the other flat to come up over the boss to prevent slippage. A pair of self tapping sheet metal screws would hold the bracket in place; easy to drill and fasten, and easy to remove when needed. That's my next project.

Keep up the good work and send pics when completed!
 
Kenneth Webb said:
Excellent! I'm thinking along the same lines, although I have a template for the brake lever that can be welded onto the stock pivot, and the stock brake switch could be used. I like the 630 master better, but changing the plumbing looked like a bit of work. 'Don't like the brake line running outside of the frame, but there doesn't appear to be a way to run it on the back side.

I like that the F800 spring looks like it works well. The stock spring can also be rotated according to the measurements I made.

One thing you might look at is to cut the offset from the stock lever and weld it onto the new lever, raising it to where it needs to be. That's what I am planning to do. The actuating rod can be cut and rethreaded to make the length right for the new offset location.

One more thing we need to address it the radiator slipping off of the lower stud as has happened to a number of riders. It looks like a small bracket can be fabricated from 1x1x1/8 aluminum angle and just screwed to the front down plate. Fasten one leg to the plate, and cut the other flat to come up over the boss to prevent slippage. A pair of self tapping sheet metal screws would hold the bracket in place; easy to drill and fasten, and easy to remove when needed. That's my next project.

Keep up the good work and send pics when completed!
Click to expand...

Hi Ken,

Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Thought about doing the exact same thing, attaching this pedal to the existing pedal pivot point. Still kinda don't like the way the brake light switch tab would extend down with the pedal. I thought it kind of defeats the purpose of the over the top pedal and why I am looking to move the switch. Want to wait to see how easy it is with the master cylinder etc.
Cutting the offset off and re-welding was the way I was going until I thought about just moving the master cylinder to the outside side and covering as per the 800. I sourced a pedal, master cylinder and brake switch off Ebay for an 800 and want to look at that stuff before the final "cut" so to speak. Once I get everything in, I will do some hacking and welding.
Got to look into the rad mount thing you mentioned. Read about it but need to look at mine and see what is up. I like your fix by the sounds of it.
Will keep you posted. Cheers, Dave
 
Great to see someone at it!! I'd probably be doing the same, rather will be doing something similar, once i can free up the time and space.
Don't have the bike in front of me, but from the image of the removed pedal. Probably somewhat along the lines of what Ken was getting at. But if you could get a clean enough eliptical cut that mimicks the existing radius on the outer edge. Then you could flip and stitch!? Again, i'll need to have a closer look. But great to see someone blazing the way!
 
Kenneth Webb said:
Excellent! I'm thinking along the same lines, although I have a template for the brake lever that can be welded onto the stock pivot, and the stock brake switch could be used. I like the 630 master better, but changing the plumbing looked like a bit of work. 'Don't like the brake line running outside of the frame, but there doesn't appear to be a way to run it on the back side.

I like that the F800 spring looks like it works well. The stock spring can also be rotated according to the measurements I made.

One thing you might look at is to cut the offset from the stock lever and weld it onto the new lever, raising it to where it needs to be. That's what I am planning to do. The actuating rod can be cut and rethreaded to make the length right for the new offset location.

One more thing we need to address it the radiator slipping off of the lower stud as has happened to a number of riders. It looks like a small bracket can be fabricated from 1x1x1/8 aluminum angle and just screwed to the front down plate. Fasten one leg to the plate, and cut the other flat to come up over the boss to prevent slippage. A pair of self tapping sheet metal screws would hold the bracket in place; easy to drill and fasten, and easy to remove when needed. That's my next project.

Keep up the good work and send pics when completed!
Click to expand...
Here's a shot of the rad off the frame lug. I took this prior to pressure wash, when i first noticed it. Haven't had a chance to get back for a closer inspection, unfortunately we are currently in different locations. But glancing at the pic, i'm wandering if there isn't simply enough meat to tap and slip/cotter pin, maybe even a washer beneath. Or couple of fine slots with a hack saw and use a circlip. Failing this maybe just tap and loctite a small bolt?
 

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fleche phoenix said:
i'm wandering if there isn't simply enough meat to tap and slip/cotter pin, maybe even a washer beneath.
Click to expand...
Drill and tap the stud. That's the best way to do it I think but I didn't want to dismantle anything to get access. 'Guess I was just being lazy and thinking of the easy way out. That being said, the small angle tab idea is very light, easy and cheap. I'll try to cut one this weekend and fit it up. Paint it black, and it's done!
 
This is an image of a Rad from a BMW K1200R. The easiest thing to do is to use item numbers 7 and 8. It is a cir-clip that is used for the exact same use. Studs look to be the same diameter . Difference is the pin is metal. I cannot imagine the clip not being able to hold the pin in place. Might have to experiment a little with the thickness of the washer but this should do the trick. I have lots of those clips lying around from about 10 of these K's I have dismantled over the last few years. Will try it this weekend and post. Here is the part number for the clip if anyone wants to try sooner. 07 12 9 905 244
 
bats.jpg

Weighed the stock battery. Comes in at 9.2 pounds. Shorai at 2.4 pounds. A pretty decent reduction in weight. Not saying that everyone should go get one. I had this one from a warranty so want to try it and see how it works.
 
Toyboy said:
Weighed the stock battery. Comes in at 9.2 pounds. Shorai at 2.4 pounds. A pretty decent reduction in weight. Not saying that everyone should go get one. I had this one from a warranty so want to try it and see how it works.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I was trying to ascertain the weight while it was still attached to the bike, my wild guess would have a bit heavier.

Regarding the brake pedal, I had a hard time finding it on a test ride I took yesterday on a TR650 Terra...

If you want to let us know how your TR650 compares to your Xchallenge that would be great, you may have already done that somewhere...
 
Kenneth Webb said:
Drill and tap the stud. That's the best way to do it I think but I didn't want to dismantle anything to get access. 'Guess I was just being lazy and thinking of the easy way out. That being said, the small angle tab idea is very light, easy and cheap. I'll try to cut one this weekend and fit it up. Paint it black, and it's done!
Click to expand...
I'd say so long as it works , who cares! That's the beauty of self mod and adaptation, we all get to put our own creative spin on things. My biggest struggle is creating the space and time whilst renovating a house. Hopefully this weekend i can get to take a closer look see. Maybe you can post if you get it sorted.
 
fleche phoenix said:
thanks for posting this, somewhat along the lines of what i was thinking, cheers. Also wandering what that replacement battery would run, cost wise?
Click to expand...

I plan on working on the rad pin thing this weekend and will keep you posted. It is supposed to be sunny in the Northeast and 60 so may do more riding than tinkering.....! Looking at it, going to need to "shave" a little of the rubber of the bushing to make the clip fit on the pin. May even put a very slight grove on the pin just to make sure the clip stays retained.

Battery wise I think the list on the Shorai was 189.00. I get them new for about 139.00 with a discount my shop gives me. I have heard about a few issues with the Shorai not lasting quite a as long as advertised and did have 2 go bad. They are warrantied for 2 years. It is pro rated but it does help and had 2 replaced, one of mine and one I got for a friend's bike. That is how I ended up with one on the shelf so to speak and putting it in the Husky.
 
Toyboy said:
I plan on working on the rad pin thing this weekend and will keep you posted. It is supposed to be sunny in the Northeast and 60 so may do more riding than tinkering.....! Looking at it, going to need to "shave" a little of the rubber of the bushing to make the clip fit on the pin. May even put a very slight grove on the pin just to make sure the clip stays retained.

Battery wise I think the list on the Shorai was 189.00. I get them new for about 139.00 with a discount my shop gives me. I have heard about a few issues with the Shorai not lasting quite a as long as advertised and did have 2 go bad. They are warrantied for 2 years. It is pro rated but it does help and had 2 replaced, one of mine and one I got for a friend's bike. That is how I ended up with one on the shelf so to speak and putting it in the Husky.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback! More food for thought, but a couple of farkles may take priority over the battery, but it's good to know there's a significant chunk of change that can readily be shaved with such little effort.
If i can get to the garage, which sad to say is a complete rebuild waiting to happen, second in line to the house in process. But hopefully tomorrow, i want to get that pin exposed and remedied. I'd say a slight groove on either side should do the trick. But as you so clearly stated, it's a tuff call between tinkering and riding!
 
Shorai batteries are made in china. Ballistic batteries are made and designed in the US. Of you like your job support someone else's. nothing against shorai or china I have been many time and enjoyed it but I like my job more and hope you do to.
 
Tessier said:
Shorai batteries are made in china. Ballistic batteries are made and designed in the US. Of you like your job support someone else's. nothing against shorai or china I have been many time and enjoyed it but I like my job more and hope you do to.
Click to expand...

I perused the Ballistic site, lacks some needed information needed, but thanks for the other option. I'll dig through the site more....
 
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