• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TR650 Lowering Options

Aluminum lowering links should have no problems with durability. Think about it, most swingarms these days are aluminum, and many frames too. The lowering link is basically a mass of metal. It only takes force in one direction, so it really doesn't have to be terribly strong in the first place. Nevertheless, a block of aluminum is more than adequate for the job.
 
My bike arrived with the stock preload. If I tweak it....how much can I hope to lower the bike? The manual seems to indicate that I need to turn the ring nut to the right, which will decrease the preload and lower the bike. Is that right? I obviously do not want to turn it too much and alter the suspension geometry, but being 5 ft 10" and around 180 lbs I am pretty close to flat footing it. I might be able to adjust things without the spacer or the koubalink.
And..... I do not have the "tool provided". Perhaps it is universal enough. Not sure if it is worth calling the dealer and arguing about the toolkit.


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I don't know how much extra sag you will get when you sit on the bike, but that will be achieved. The bike will still be as high to throw the leg over. Your dealer should supply you with a toolkit that should have come with the bike
 
We don't have a wrench bar thing to move the shock around, and the dealer says they can't get it.

So what do we do? Brother1 and Brother2 are giving me totally opposite things. One says that banging on it with a hammer and screwdriver is fine, the other says that's stupid and we need to order the right tool or it'll eff up the sleeves.

I'm all for spending the money for the thing, but I have no idea what to order or where to order it from or anything like that.

Does anybody know:
1) What this wrench thing is acutally called. I can't very well call places and ask for a "wrench thing"
2) A part number for this wrench thing?

Thanks guys
 
OK, it's evidently called a collar. Whatever. Collar, sleeve, you guys know what I'm talking about. it's that thing that the wrench thing hooks on to so you can turn it to make it harder or softer. Or sag more an less.

Jesus, it's as bad a surfboards with the sex talk!
 
I haven't gotten intimately acquainted with the rear shock on the TR650 yet, but I assume it is no different from other monoshock designs. Here is a good video from Graves Motorsports on how to adjust preload. Keep in mind that the shock in the video has a hydraulic preload adjustor. I don't think the TR650 shock has this. However, the fundamentals for the rest of the adjustment are the same. Instead of banging on it with the wrong tool, just remove the shock and do it right.

View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTK9xlrCWD4
 
If you want a field expedient method, try one of these. It is a $10 shock adjustment spanner. Cheap, but effective. You can use it on almost any shock, and it turns with a 3/8" drive ratchet, which you probably already have in your toolkit, so it packs light too.

21H6QilsTZL._SS500_.jpg
 
Abby said:
OK, it's evidently called a collar. Whatever. Collar, sleeve, you guys know what I'm talking about. it's that thing that the wrench thing hooks on to so you can turn it to make it harder or softer. Or sag more an less.

Jesus, it's as bad a surfboards with the sex talk!
Click to expand...

I think I found your solution. I searched collar sleeve motorcycle and found this for you, to solve the height issue. Pay attention to the riding boots. :p Just a thought.

http://www.oasap.com/shirts-blouses/20064-polka-dot-peter-pan-collar-long-sleeve-blouse.html

After yesterdays ride, I decided I was not going to lower mine. Today thinking back to my youth, the bicycle I had was a 26" and I was a small boy at the time. While on the bar I could not reach the pedals without moving back and forth on the bar. I never could figure why the step through frame was a girls bike and the bar right at the privates is a boys bike.

Anyway, after yesterdays ride, I feel at home on "the other woman". (http://fuelly.com/motorcycle/ --keep track of your mileage), And with a couple of near drops in the hills, I am so much more confident with this she devil of a machine. I was impressed that I was able to keep the Terra from dropping. My other bikes, had they gone that far over the weight would have tumbled me. I guess there is alot to be said about putting the gas under the seat.

BTW, shock adjustment spanner wrench. When searching, the diameter helps get one that fits best. They handed me a minimal tool kit when I bought my bike, and it has the spanner. I'm on 2nd softest setting.

With that lowering collar for the spring itself, it may change the ride height (loaded) but will not change the mount height by much if any. Same with the preload of the spring setting. To me that is important, because the big issue is if the bike is on the side stand, throwing my leg over and getting the bike upright is a bit of a trick, especially on uneven dirt and full gear. I just try and park with the bike kick stand on the high side of the hill, not always possible. I need to practice a rolling mount, like I used to do with the bicycle.

Now if someone could make an AIR RIDE, like the lowriders, lower for parking, raise for riding, Nah, too much more weight.
 
mag00 said:
I think I found your solution. I searched collar sleeve motorcycle and found this for you, to solve the height issue. Pay attention to the riding boots. :p Just a thought.
http://www.oasap.com/shirts-blouses/20064-polka-dot-peter-pan-collar-long-sleeve-blouse.html
Click to expand...
Cute, but not my style. to much covered!!! ha hah hah the boots either. i have five pair of shoes--three slippers (what you call flipflops), tech 8's, and a pair of tony lamas. most of the time i don't have shoes on

I never could figure why the step through frame was a girls bike and the bar right at the privates is a boys bike.
Click to expand...
It's because men are stronger and the triangle frame design makes it so the frame of the bike doesn't move and flex. also a holdover from when chicks couldn't straddle things, like bikes or men or horses.

BTW, shock adjustment spanner wrench. When searching, the diameter helps get one that fits best.
Click to expand...
SWEETNESS. Glad to know what it's acutally called. so, dos any body know the diameter needed of this shock adjustment spanner wrench?
 
Asking men to measure their wrench diameters... oh dear!

I still reckon you can argue to your dealer about the toolkit that should have been supplied with the bike.

I hope you wear more than thongs/flipflops/sliders and a bikini when riding the Terra? I mean you say you're reasonably good looking, would be a shame to mince yourself up from an off and not be able to surf :thumbsup:
 
Tazzierob said:
I hope you wear more than thongs/flipflops/sliders
Click to expand...


Tech 8's.
I said that.
Men!! You don't read well.

But yeah, I have a kickass BMW jacket and pants i wear and this cute little helmet that's crazy bright green/yellow.
 
I put a 1.75" lower koubalink on the husky so my GF could ride it. Beautifully made and looks good. Much lighter than the steel stock one. Easy to install. I had lowered the front 40mm as well and it had improved the handling (turn in). I bought her a Suzuki DR400SM and lowered it so I have my Husky back. The link made the geometry the same as stock with the front lowered as well and negated my improvements so I will be getting the 1" lower link to replace it and hopefully will get some of my turn-in improvements back. It's a pity you aren't in Aus or I would sell you my 1.75" lower link cheap.
BTW the upside down logo is correct. one side is the right way up the other upside down. No idea why.
They have been closed for a few weeks so haven't been able to order the new one yet.

 
I've just installed a 1.75" Koubalink on my Terra. Should have probably brought the 1" link.

Anyway I took it for a ride and I've noticed it doesn't lean in as well when cornering; hard to describe but I have to use the bars to turn. I haven't touched the forks yet and the rear shock preload is still set on minimum as I tried this to try and increase sag to drop the bike's height. Any suggestions for adjustments would be appreciated especially if you have installed one of these on a Terra. Cheers
 
Hi Aus_tr650,
Where is Aus are you. I am in Bundaberg now. Only TR650 here.
The 19" front wheel doesn't turn in real well at the best of times. I lowered the front 50mm, before I lowered the back, and considerably improved turn-in . Lost it when I lowered the back as well, so I can safely say that the lower front end IMPROVES the handling . Pity they didn't take the Nuda wheel for the Strada . It is after all a ROAD bike. 19" just doesn't make sense. A 17" would have turned better and allowed better road tyres to be fitted.
I am definitely getting a 25mm link to replace this 45mm as soon as Kouba is opened again.
I lowered the front by making a 50mm aluminium spoool to fit on the rod between the piston head and the topout.
Pic attached of the Al spool I made for each fork to lower them.



Also pic of new spring retainer for lowered forks ( spring currently stock length). MUCH easier to work on the forks than the standard preload/retainer). Also shows the shortened stock retainer for std length stroke.
 
Thanks Greg for your input. I'll slide up the forks by 20mm as suggested in the instruction sheet and see how it goes on my Terra. I thought the turn in was quite good on my bike prior to installing the link.
 
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