• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

TPS spec for TE511 2013 model

9880sts

9880sts

Husqvarna
AA Class
hi,
just after some TPS sensor spec.
my bike sputters and cuts out as soon i just open move the throttle only a mm. But if i go over that 1mm move on the lever , the bike runs ok..

But with that issue, when you idle along, just above low idle, the bike suddenly cuts out and you just get thrown off.

I had the bike connected today. 1.55V in low idle. 4.6v open thottle.

thanks
 
And moving the TPS doesn't change the running, but the voltage changes?
Sounds like a 'hole' in the mapping if that's the case.
 
9880sts
Click to expand...
Not that I'll have your answer but it would probably be helpful to know more about your bike. What map are you running, jumper in or out, what mods have you done, do you use a PCV or other product?
 
Full Akro Map.
Slip on FMF
2600km
FBW removed and little knob
no pcv and no jd Tuner.
Oxy removed... plug in.

I was the second after Dangermousse removed his FBW butterfly to do it.
So the bike was running fine for the last 600km with the flap removed.
Just started last two rides with it. And it only happens when there is no load on the Engine and you just slightly move the Throttle tube. Its allready enough just to lean on the tube while standing up on a slight downhill. 1 or 2 gear. It is not a constant thing, but it happens offten enough to throw me off. Just when i don't expect it.

Low idle Speed at the moment between 1575 to 1850 on the HST tool.


So something is wrong with it. Whe i moved the TPS Sensor myself ion the Bush. there was no change at all in the behaviour of the Engine.
 
danny318 said:
I don't have the numbers in front of me but I'm pretty sure the minimum on my bike was .6xx and I'm pretty sure the maximum was 3.9x. If that's right than 1.5v is way too high at idle
Click to expand...

I'm with you man, haven't got my readings yet (away for work) but was chatting with 9880 last night, never seen an efi system above roughly .5 -.6 v.
Not saying they aren't out there, just never seen one

I reckon it's gonna be a crook TPS.....
 
apparently , a new 511 was at the dealer and the TPS in closed position was at 1.75V fully open 3.9V

at least something.... will see what happens!
 
How are you measuring the voltage? via the HST or multimeter somewhere?

If via multimeter, I can check mine over the weekend.
 
Strange silence here......

Thats it with the husky Dealers. as soon the HST comes to play, many cock up.

looks like the best thing to do is... Agree to disagree and don't say something if you don't agree with someone here.
 
My readings off of the PCV are .6 at 0% and 3.99 at 100%. That being said, the instruments I calibrate at work, or
either 4 to 20 milliamps or 0 to 5 volts. The ECU/computer just needs a number for 0 calibration and a number
span (100%) In my experience, seldom do devices read exactly the same, so if you get a low number for zero and a
much higher number for span (100%) the ECU should do the rest. When you adjust the potentiometers and change
the zero and span, you must do a TPS reset so the ECU can see the new numbers as 0 and 100. If the bike
runs good with the existing numbers, it would be best to leave the alone.
 
All correct info above.
Not too many TEs running well though :(
Doing a Map Shift by physically moving the TPS & not resetting the base/ zero setting electronically has cured my flameouts.
9880sts's bike cuts out just off idle & has a very high idle reading, I believe the 2 are linked.
Trying to get an idea of what most other bikes read.....
 
I'm experiencing flame out too on my 2013 TE511. I have installed the JD tuner and jumped the map plug-in with a small piece of doorbell wire so that it reads MAP II when the motor is running.
I have been trying to follow the conversations about butterfly valves, TPS sensors and the opening throttle body air screw in order to eliminate the flame out.
My problem is that I'm more of a visual learner and I can't find anything here documenting how to go about making such changes. (I don't even have any idea what a TPS sensor is)
Would any fellow TE owners be willing to fill me in on how I might get this darn bike from stalling out as I come to a stop or slow down? Photos would be a great help.
On my first ride in town I stalled out in the middle of a busy intersection and had to push her through traffic to the shoulder. I added the jumper wire for MAP II. Flamed out still. After that I bought and installed the JD tuner. Still flaming out. I am now very hesitant to be anywhere out on the road. I want to ride it so bad though!!! Please Help!!!
 
Can you give me a quick run down on where you are measuring the voltage. Just want to be working in the same area..
 
jasov said:
I'm experiencing flame out too on my 2013 TE511. I have installed the JD tuner and jumped the map plug-in with a small piece of doorbell wire so that it reads MAP II when the motor is running.
I have been trying to follow the conversations about butterfly valves, TPS sensors and the opening throttle body air screw in order to eliminate the flame out.
My problem is that I'm more of a visual learner and I can't find anything here documenting how to go about making such changes. (I don't even have any idea what a TPS sensor is)
Would any fellow TE owners be willing to fill me in on how I might get this darn bike from stalling out as I come to a stop or slow down? Photos would be a great help.
On my first ride in town I stalled out in the middle of a busy intersection and had to push her through traffic to the shoulder. I added the jumper wire for MAP II. Flamed out still. After that I bought and installed the JD tuner. Still flaming out. I am now very hesitant to be anywhere out on the road. I want to ride it so bad though!!! Please Help!!!
Click to expand...

Fortunate not to get run into at your intersection!! :(

Where are you located, Jasov?
Is the bike still under warranty, if so I'd take it to the dealer as a starting point & get them to check the idle settings.
Some owners have been able to stop stalling just by adjusting the brass idle screw on the left side of the throttle body out slightly. (Count the turns on yours it takes to go all the way in, most people run about 2 1/4-2 1/2 out) Some have as much as 5 turns out.
As well as adjusting idle speed, it has an effect on mixture.
(Leaner when screwed out more)
There is 'a how to' for an electronic'reset' on the tps, it did nothing for the running of my early bike but may help.
There is also Map3 meant for more open exhausts, this has richer fuelling in 'race map II' mode, a dealer would have to upload it without the jumper in place.
CH member Motosportz is the man to talk to about settings for your JD also, he sells them & runs one on his own bike.

If after trying these things it flames out, then start on the hardware (butterfly, TPS shift).
Happy to talk you through if you like feel free to pm me.
DM
 
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