• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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Torque specs for TE310R Oil cover

SiberianHusky

Husqvarna
C Class
Hello there again Guys, Now that I've run in my TE310R I've changed the filter and oil but I'm having a hard time finding the torque specs for the oil filter cover...anyone know what he NM ftlbs number should be? Thanks.
 
I have a new 2014 te310r. Love it. Is it really that important to torque these cap bolts ? Or am I good to say tight, but not too tight ? Haha. It's probably worth the couple bucks to get a torque wrench...
 
I have a new 2014 te310r. Love it. Is it really that important to torque these cap bolts ? Or am I good to say tight, but not too tight ? Haha. It's probably worth the couple bucks to get a torque wrench...


Torque wrench is cheaper than fixing a stripped hole. To work on everything on the bike you will need a 1/2" and a 3/8" torque wrench. The 1/2" in ft lbs and the 3/8" in inch pounds. It's nice to have markings for Nm also, but if not it is simple enough to convert.
 
I have a new 2014 te310r. Love it. Is it really that important to torque these cap bolts ? Or am I good to say tight, but not too tight ? Haha. It's probably worth the couple bucks to get a torque wrench...


The only thing I use a torque wrench on are the head bolts. Everything else, including the cam caps, I use my torque arm. On the smaller bolts and nuts, I use the smallest wrench I can use.
 
Use a torque wrench as much as possible. Especially on the pinch bolts on the front axle. I have a nice inch pound 3/8" drive that works real nice up to 100 inch pounds. Has been a good addition to the roll away.
 
I am not screwing around... Mini Syntace 1/4 drive for case screws and pinch bolts on carbon fiber tubes, Proto 3/8 drive for medium torque fasteners such as linkage and head bolts, and cam caps. Then a cheaper 1/2 drive Pep Boys for the swingarm pivot and auto lug nuts. I try and use only the mid ranges of these wrenches and zero all after use. I did initially just use my own good sense in retightening the oil cover a few times but recently torqued them. I figure these tools are a lifetime invetsment. Buy them when young and use them.
 
Use a torque wrench as much as possible. Especially on the pinch bolts on the front axle.

Most of the time I am loosening/tightening the pinch bolts on the front axle is in the field. If I always use a torque wrench on them, I would never know how to tighten them without the torque wrench.

HuskyFlat.jpg
 
Most of the time I am loosening/tightening the pinch bolts on the front axle is in the field. If I always use a torque wrench on them, I would never know how to tighten them without the torque wrench.

HuskyFlat.jpg
Agree... also rear axle as torqued from the factory there is no way I could loosen it on the trail with my Motion Pro spoon/wrench. I didn't bother torquing my front either on my tire change. Smaller nuts/bolts I just choke up accordingly. Older/wiser ;-)

BTW are you happy with that stand?
 
The only thing I use a torque wrench on are the head bolts. Everything else, including the cam caps, I use my torque arm. On the smaller bolts and nuts, I use the smallest wrench I can use.


You hit the nail on the head IMHO use the smallest or most appropriate sized wrench. I have a friend who is a BMW guy who torques everything with a torque wrench, he strips more bolts out than any one I know, I think he owns stock in the Timesert company. He has high quality torque wrenches and even gets them calibrated, stores them properly. I have another buddy old school european bike mechanic who almost never uses one, and he told me a long time ago using the proper sized wrench is the key. I was a bicycle wrench for many years, so I feel I have pretty good feel and almost never have any problems. Except for that goofy drain bolt on my TE 310 the flat sides on that thing have a rounded shape to them now and it is getting replaced next oil change. I really dislike that drain bolt I am ready for the Zip Tye Kit!
 
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