• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Top 3 mods for the TE510

M

mudluva

Husqvarna
Just got a new to me 2010 TE510 and am looking for "the best" 3 mods with specific brands.

With only 10 hrs on the bike, I can already see that barkbusters, skid plate, could be 2.

thoughts?

any pics would be appreciated.

thanks,

carl
 
Suspension set for your weight, riding ability and type of riding would be number 1.

I had a txc510 09, similar beast to yours except it had a carb. The best mods I did apart from the suspension were:
- carb tuning (irrelevant to you)
- g2 throttle cam system and used the 400 cam. This was great to calm the power for tighter slower riding.
- Fastway footpegs. Low position
- 20mm extended gear lever. This and the Fastways were almost necessary to get my size 14 boot under the gear lever. The distance between the gear lever and pegs is way too small on these bikes IMHO
 
I have an 2009 TE510. I'd say JDtuner, extended gear lever, 7602 clutch slave piston with "X ring", trail tech X2 headlight, and 7602 oil change set to start.
 
First off remove the emissions gas catch can and evap canister etc... A tuner is a must for the bike as well. Company's like dynojet make the power commander 5 with auto tune. or jd jetting makes a tuning kit as well. Remove all the stock blinkers and stock rear taillight fender assembly. Replacing the stock blinkers with LEDs will make them flash really fast due to less resistance. You can buy blinker resistors to remedy this problem. The list of mods goes on and on but for a bear bones stock te 510 that's a good place to start. After that something like acerbis handguards and a hyde racing belly skid plate are pretty necessary for any type of trail riding.

Blue Skies!
RideLI
 
Also play around with the suspension on the bike they are set up funky from the factory. Next couple of rides bring a small flat head screw driver and make little tweaks to the compression and rebound adjustments it makes a big difference and its free!
 
Handguards, Skid plate and a replacement rear tire because the stock one won't last long.

The 510 is a blast to ride and as others have suggested the suspension has allot of adjustment to suit
your weight, riding style and terrain. Wish I could find one like you have with only 10 hours on it.
 
Great points brought up!
I notice the shifter a little short sticking out to catch with riding boots. Also, I feel the suspension is not ideally set up. Is there a suggested method of setting suspension up?

Type of riding I enjoy is picking thru the woods, tight and mostly first gear slower technical stuff. I did find myself stalling a few times, but bike starts right up. I snagged the wire that goes to front brake lever and pulled it out. (just clips in), but I do see barkbusters being an automatic for woods. I prefer a bike being quiet and notice a rattle/pinging, sound coming from exhaust, like baffle loose?

What would the tuner do for me?
 
The rattle is probably the floating rear brake rotor. Grab it and give it a wiggle, you'll see what I mean.

It's normal.
 
Pivot Pegs made shifting a LOT better on my 510. +1 on the JD tuner. Makes a world of difference. A set of SuperMoto wheels is a great accessory too

You wanted pictures....

My 510 in dirt garb in Death Valley:
IMG_2049.jpg

And SuMo mode in the driveway:
IMG_2238.jpg
 
Drill a small dimple in your spark arrestor so you can press a .177 caliber BB into it. This will tighten your spark arrestor and make it stop chirping. Remove your rear sprocket bolts and reinstall them with silicone so they keep your disc from rattling around. Ditch the stock headlight. Get a bigger rear sprocket if you like tight terrain. Grease every bearing with high quality waterproof grease( probably the most important thing to do). Replace your brake fluid with high temp dot 4. And don't forget to hold on
 
Here's mine, I modded in stages. First thing was sorting out the fueling with a JD tuner/not quit as loud FMF pipe. Next I addressed handling with a fork re-valve, Ohlins TTX shock from Zip-Ty, and Scotts damper. I also added the Zip-Ty extended shift lever, Zip-Ty high back chain slider and T.M. designs chain guide. Protection comes from an Up-tite skid plate and Motosportz shark fin. All in all this is now well handling good running bike that is a pleasure to ride.

 
cbreakin said:
Here's mine, I modded in stages. First thing was sorting out the fueling with a JD tuner/not quit as loud FMF pipe. Next I addressed handling with a fork re-valve, Ohlins TTX shock from Zip-Ty, and Scotts damper. I also added the Zip-Ty extended shift lever, Zip-Ty high back chain slider and T.M. designs chain guide. Protection comes from an Up-tite skid plate and Motosportz shark fin. All in all this is now well handling good running bike that is a pleasure to ride.

Click to expand...
What bar bend is that? That looks like the height I want mine at
 
being tall, I put back in stock link to rear suspension as the prior owner had a Koubalink installed. I cranked down the spring in rear, changed link, also adjusted headstock/front end which was lower by about 1/2".
I did not get a manual, and am curious about adjustments to make on rear shock? sag is approx 3.5" with full weight on bike. Now what?
 
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