• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Tire testing with Tubliss

My rim flaws are about exactly where the tubliss seal touches the rim. I was expecting that i might get tire air pressure leaking under the tubliss lip and out the spokes. I may be overthinking it. Cam.
 
KXcam22 said:
My rim flaws are about exactly where the tubliss seal touches the rim. I was expecting that i might get tire air pressure leaking under the tubliss lip and out the spokes. I may be overthinking it. Cam.
Click to expand...

For that to happen, your rim under the liner would have to be bent "up" so high that it pushed the liner so high that it wouldn't compress against the inside of tire bead. Not likely and almost impossible. If your having sealing problems most occur from not getting the liner/tire wet and slippery. Having a slippery surface allows the tire and liner to move and mate into each other. I'm good at installing tubliss but I've had to reapply the soapy water solution and bouncing trick about 20% of the time. Also many times you'll have a minor leak in the beginning. IE, losing few pounds a day. Eventually after riding the bike and warming the tire/liner/tube, it seals up. My rear loses about 1 pound a month, the front loses about a pound a week.

If you haven't been to this page it's chocked full of info http://tubliss.com/tubliss/tubliss-faq
 
Sedona 880 120/90-18 on the 300 update: it worked great everywhere @ 5-6psi, but after 10 hrs it's almost done. It's also big and heavy if you're weight conscious. It's a tough tire, no chunking or other damage. Best of the Sedonas for me on the twisty trails in the deep woods on both 165 and 300.
I consider a fresh one race worthy and for the price will stash a couple. I'm betting it would do well in the piney SC woods where there's more sand and mud.

Back to IRC VE33 in 5.10-18 for me, mainly because I have one already and know it works great.

After 2 1/2 years and lots of tire changes I need a new Tubliss liner. I've pinched it and roughed it up wrestling the Sedona tires on and off.

:cheers:
 
TUbliss with a mousse!? wow- inspired

so you can run air in the tire, air in the bladder only or even none of the above? could a wheel with a 4lb mousse be inflated to 20 psi for a high speed run?

wait... I'd guess you would have to have at least 50psi in the bladder just for bead security. but still, it's a great idea
 
I just ran my first nitro mousse set up.
Went to western Colorado and rode for 7 days straight.
Yesterday removed my rear to swap tires. I had used the tubliss rim tape on the rear rim.
It had disintegrated!
Came out in chunks.
Not sure if the lube reacted with it or what.
Running 2 rim locks.
Trying the nitro with the Kenda ibex this time.
 
I had a regular piece of rim tape kicking around, so put that on.
Hope to not kill that as well!
First ride this morning on the Kenda Ibex.
Seemed to hook up really well, especially with the mousse.
Only negative I noticed was that under hard braking it wants to slide, not bite.
But cleared mud / muck really well and with slick rocks and roots, seemed to be pretty good!
 
For a recent trip to Colorado I put a new rear tire on my scoot. The tubliss held pressure fine for over a week before I left San Diego. I set it at 105psi here before I left. When I arrived in Colorado the tire was flat. Turns out the high pressure tube ruptured. Possibly due to the pressure difference at 9000ft? Or maybe just worn out-i've had it on the bike for about two years now without any problems.......
 
lankydoug said:
I've been running the Sedona 907 for quite a while, it doesn't wallow until below 2 pounds, I prefer 4 psi. I had a puncture and barely noticed it, in fact I kept riding and fixed it afterward for the next rides. It works pretty good everywhere and has lasted longer than any knobby I've ever run. The knobs are very tall and after a very long time began to round the edges so I squared them with a knobby knife and it was back to the new tire feel. It's better in the sugar sand and loose gravel then the average knobby. It is very easy to turn by pitching the back end out in corners, when I first installed it I was replacing a MT43 which would stay stuck and then let go all at once so at first the Sedona felt slippery on hard pack clay but once I got used to letting it drift in tight corners then began to really like it. I've had a AT81 waiting on the shelf for almost a year and the Sedona just won't wear out. It resists chunking in the Missouri rocks which is usually what does in my tires. I've never owned a Shinko so I can't give a comparison.
Click to expand...
Sedona 907 is God! There may be a better tire out there but not at Jeff Slavens current price. He's selling them for 63 bucks plus shipping I order a couple at a time. I think I'm paying about 12 bucks for shipping they arrived here in California only a couple days after I've ordered them. 4lbs on my 250 two stroke with tubliss.
 
ptkatoomer said:
For a recent trip to Colorado I put a new rear tire on my scoot. The tubliss held pressure fine for over a week before I left San Diego. I set it at 105psi here before I left. When I arrived in Colorado the tire was flat. Turns out the high pressure tube ruptured. Possibly due to the pressure difference at 9000ft? Or maybe just worn out-i've had it on the bike for about two years now without any problems.......
Click to expand...
That's odd! Generally you see a pressure increase when you go down in elevation coming from 9000 foot trip. On my last trip returning from Colorado I had a can of shaving cream explode in my car in Utah after descending nearly 5,000 feet in a few hours. I've had very few issues with a set of tubliss now thats been in my 501s over three years old. The bladder will eventually ware out and fail from inflating and deflating over time. I think if you ride hard and go through a lot of tires and you get a couple years out of one it's probably normal. I have them in a few bikes now and they get hammered pretty hard I'll never go back to Conventional Tubes.
 
As you gain altitude or elevation in this case air pressure decreases. I live at about 1700 feet in elevation here in Northern California. I run fairly High tire pressure in my 10 ply pickup truck tires and I have experienced a pressure decrease of about 5 lb traveling to the Lake Tahoe area in the Sierra mountain range. I only use my truck tires as an example here my shaving cream incident descending from Colorado last summer is also proof of this that can of shaving cream uento nearly 11,000 feet at one point in Taylor Park before dropping down to around 5000 before exploding from the pressure increase. The can itself didn't rupture but the plastic nozzle failed thank goodness it was contained in a travel bag LOL. Hey now that I've heard your story I'll definitely lower my tubliss pressure when I travel through the Rockies prior to making any radical descents of 5000 feet or more
 
ptkatoomer said:
The tubliss held pressure fine for over a week before I left San Diego. I set it at 105psi here before I left. When I arrived in Colorado the tire was flat. Turns out the high pressure tube ruptured. maybe just worn out-i've had it on the bike for about two years now without any problems.......
Click to expand...

Though bladder failure is not frequent, Neutech recommends:
"Replace the inner bladder every 100 hrs or 12 months — whichever comes first."
 
Mounted a fresh VE33 5.10-18 on the 300 today and lovin' it. No more Sedona chiny tires for me. I tried all 3 of the Sedona MX tires on both bikes and I still prefer the VE33. For $10 more I get longer life, better performance, lighter weight and don't have to fight to get the tire on and off. The VE33 is 6 PR and beefy as hell!

Gotta say the Sedona 880 was very good when fresh on both bikes, but it goes downhill fast and was useless on the 300 @ 15 hrs. The 887 was a close 2nd and was usable longer, but was the worst ever to unmount. I liked the 907 in general, and it wears very well, but performance in the SE woods wasn't great.

:cheers:
 
Regarding the Tubliss system, I found that removing the moulding sprues helps get a good seal.
The inner carcass comes with a lot of these "hairs" sticking out, they are part of the moulding process. They can get caught between the sealing lip of the carcass and the tyre's inner sidewall. This can cause an annoying slow leak that is nigh on impossible to trace. After devetal attempts to find a leak I tried trimming them off, the leak was cured.
They can easily be pulled off by gripping between fingernails and pulling. It is almost as satisfying as bursting bubble-wrap too
 
magwych said:
Regarding the Tubliss system, I found that removing the moulding sprues helps get a good seal.
The inner carcass comes with a lot of these "hairs" sticking out, they are part of the moulding process. They can get caught between the sealing lip of the carcass and the tyre's inner sidewall. This can cause an annoying slow leak that is nigh on impossible to trace. After devetal attempts to find a leak I tried trimming them off, the leak was cured.
They can easily be pulled off by gripping between fingernails and pulling. It is almost as satisfying as bursting bubble-wrap too
Click to expand...

Good idea!
Maybe that is why I can't get my Golden Tyre Fatty to seal on either of my front set ups?

BTW, I just lost my 2nd inner bladder in 6 years. Both on the front and never the rear.
In fact, the fronts are the only side that ever gives me problems. The rears are plug and play.
 
R_Little said:
Good idea!
Maybe that is why I can't get my Golden Tyre Fatty to seal on either of my front set ups?
BTW, I just lost my 2nd inner bladder in 6 years. Both on the front and never the rear.
In fact, the fronts are the only side that ever gives me problems. The rears are plug and play.
Click to expand...

My shinko 216, original "Goldentyre" went on perfectly. Hopefully the inner carcass hasn't changed since Goldentyre moved to a new factory.
Looks like your getting your $ worth out of the front bladder. The general rule is replace after a year or 100 hours. I learned that the hard way.
 
Just watched a Slavens video where he said the Motoz tires have ribs along the bead that required him to use a couple of bottles of Slime to get the low pressure chamber to seal. Think that explains why I couldn't get mine to hold air.
 
I just lost my third inner bladder. i thought they all failed in the front but the 1st one many years ago might have been a rear.
Anyway, i checked the two failed bladders I still have and they were all torn just below the valve stem in exactly the same spot as if the lower nut on the valve stem under the rim got past the rubber washer neutech puts above the nut and gouged the tube under 100 psi. I think the third failed in the exact same way.

Does anyone have any insight into this?
 
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