• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Tight Valves confirmed

ripnriding

ripnriding

Husqvarna
AA Class
SO....working my way deeper into the inner workings of this bike. Had noticed it had been getting more challenging to start via electric start and had stalled on me a couple times last ride..and I have a REKLUSE..Also have been listening with a keen ear and hear what I though was some pronounced "tick tick tick tick ticking". Mild backfiring on deceleration was also noted. Figured...time to pop the valve cover off and get that feeler gauge in between the rocker arm and valve shim for clearance values.

All went well...had watched coffee's vid multiple times and had the valve cover off previously to change out a leaky gasket so figured this should be a piece of cake. Essentially was except lining up TDC was a bit of a challenge with a REKLUSE. Shifted it into like 5 or 6th and it seemed to help but a tad tough to properly line up...got it..3 of 4 valves didn't have enough clearance for .1 mm...

So all of my intuitions have led me to now bring this gal to a local shop to have this done properly ;) So with valve clearances tight in 3 of 4 valves...I'm a little excited for one reason....I'm guessing, MORE POWER IS TO COME**************************************** Am I correct here re: improved power? Hope my shop will have this turned around quickly. Another question....how much do you figure my local shop will charge to shim to spec...1 or 2 hours work? Thanks in advance
 
Should be 1 hour for changing shims only, anything more than 1 hour, I have to wonder who did the work.

More power, maybe, I wouldn't count on it, better running yes.
 
ripnriding said:
Bringing it to Ktec in Kingston. Will let you know how I fare out.
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If you have the bike torn apart enough to check the valves, why not just pop the shims out and either put thinner shims in, or sand the shims you have so they are thinner? You have already done the hard part...
 
I don't think you will notice any power differences. Will be more reliable on starting and running.

My local shop charges around 1.5 hours for valve check and shims if need be.
 
Coffee said:
If you have the bike torn apart enough to check the valves, why not just pop the shims out and either put thinner shims in, or sand the shims you have so they are thinner? You have already done the hard part...
Click to expand...

I know...being an older bike that has (over 10000km) on it, just confirmed with original owner...WOW..that seems like a lot...I decided, I'm going to have the top end looked at as well to fix anything that may become an issue before it becomes a BIG issue, ie dropped valve. I'm guessing this will be a few hours for "investigating". Would you recommend the mechanic to look into a anything specifically or should I tell them the reported mileage and have them go from there? Thanks in advance. BTW, quite impressed with the original owner reaching out and filling me in, quite transparently, about the history of this bike.
 
ripnriding said:
...tell them the reported mileage and have them go from there?...
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That would be my approach to a mechanic the knows about those bikes. Typically bikes like yours last far longer than what your bike has on it.

Personally I would inspect anything of rubber out side the engine too. Rubber thing between the carb & engine, hoses, etc. In addition to any wires, especially near the steering stem. Maybe just start with the parts diagrams and inspect everything you see that might be worn? dunno..
 
Coffee said:
That would be my approach to a mechanic the knows about those bikes. Typically bikes like yours last far longer than what your bike has on it.

Personally I would inspect anything of rubber out side the engine too. Rubber thing between the carb & engine, hoses, etc. In addition to any wires, especially near the steering stem. Maybe just start with the parts diagrams and inspect everything you see that might be worn? dunno..
Click to expand...

Thanks Coffee...reassuring fo shore ;)
 
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