The iBeat Thread

[DYNOBOB]

It gets mentioned a lot in threads, I think it would be useful for many to have a explanation of what iBeat is. I'll start by saying I don't claim to be an expert on the topic but I'll pass along what I know. Please chime in with your knowledge and experience.

iBeat is Mikuni's software interface for the fuel injection systems on our bikes. Dealers have a Mikuni dongle and factory software for servicing our bikes and I believe this OEM stuff is available out there somewhere for anyone to purchase. What most of us have done instead is buy the "dongle" from Semco Designs ($154) and download the software from JTemple's google drive (free).

Dongle http://semcodesigns.com/Products.html

iBeat .iso file https://www.dropbox.com/s/9yr7xbfh36dl4ot/iBeat%202.1.iso?dl=0
Drivers https://www.dropbox.com/s/aoez1atenxm77cu/iBeat Husqvarna EFU USB V2 Drivers 1.0.iso?dl=0
Manual https://www.dropbox.com/s/2kvk2rztd7bx6uc/iBeat_OperationManual-English.pdf?dl=0

The software file is a .iso file which means you download it, burn file to cd, and then install from the cd. The computer needs to be a 32bit Windows machine so if you have an older laptop you're probably set.



Once you have the dongle and software installed you're ready to go. This is it, about the size of a pack of gum and comes with a 10' usb cable.

Diagnostic port is behind the headlight shroud.

Turn the bike key on before starting the software. Main screen looks like this. (For some reason my netbook cuts off the bottom?)

Some of the stuff it can do:

- Adjust the fueling of the bike. Click the "CO" tab at top and you get a box that lets you adjust three areas (1 - low rpm/throttle, 2 - mid rpm/throttle, etc). The number represents a percentage of stock value. Most have found 100,105,116 works pretty good on a mostly stock bike. 102,108,120 works for an aftermarket exhaust. Put the numbers in and hit exit, that's it! We are only adjusting the fueling, not reflashing the ecu. EDIT Nov 2014: I've changed the recommended "low" numbers to reflect adding little to no fuel (they were 108/108/116 and 110/110/120).

- Reset the throttle position sensor (TPS). Click the "TPS" tab. I believe the bike is supposed to be fully warmed up when you do this.

- Check for error codes.

- View all the sensor values while the bike is running (nice on the dyno).

View: http://youtu.be/HHIGioqJ2ME



If you poke around it does a few more things but that's most of the cool stuff. It's fantastic to me that the electronics of the 630 are accessible with a $150 part. Enjoy!

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[GeekVenture]

Awesome...thank you sooooo much for all your help DB!

Just a side note on the software files...once you download the .iso files, you can actually extract them to a folder using WINRAR.
Just right click on the .iso file and select "extract to iBeat 2.1 folder" or "extract to iBeat Husqvarna EFU USB V2 Drivers 1.0 folder" .
Once this folder w/ files is created, you can execute the install from that folder and not have to burn to a CD!

 

[GeekVenture]

Additionally...Windows 7 was able to install the drives automatically.

 

[Dangermouse449]

Sigh!

If only we could do the same thing with the BASTARD LOCKED KEIHIN system in the TE449/511 range.....
Other manufacturers running this system choose to make theirs tunable (Yamaha, Honda etc.)

Life would be so much rosier!!


Nice info there!

 

[WickedWill]

Great thread.
Could you explain the process of how the tps is reset.
I have never been game to reset mine after all the other tps issues i had.

 

[DYNOBOB]

Better than me explaining... Here's a link to the iBeat user manual on my Dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/s/2kvk2rztd7bx6uc/iBeat_OperationManual-English.pdf

See sec 4, pg 32

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[DYNOBOB]

Just a side note on the software files...once you download the .iso files, you can actually extract them to a folder using WINRAR.
Just right click on the .iso file and select "extract to iBeat 2.1 folder" or "extract to iBeat Husqvarna EFU USB V2 Drivers 1.0 folder" .
Once this folder w/ files is created, you can execute the install from that folder and not have to burn to a CD!

Good info!

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[EricV]

Huge thanks DynoBob! Now this is gonna sound dense, but...

For setting the CO and TPS should the key just be in the "On" position and engine not running? I'm having a difficult time discerning what functions are to be adjusted in the power on stage, and which are to be done while the bike is running. Thanks!

Edit/update: I plugged up to iBeat after work and saw the yellow flashing box indicating error codes. In the line that says Injector (under Output Failures heading) it says "open circuit." Now that's under "historic" and not "current"- so guessing it's not an issue now (bike runs fine...perhaps the result of the p/u being done...ideas?) Here's a pic, if it works (sorry, a bad pic):

 

[EricV]

Sorry for polluting the thread. I went back and re-read the manual. TPS is set w/out engine running, and the blinking yellow means a historical (not current) fault. Still not sure why I have a historical fault for Injector, so if anyone has ideas please let me know (more curious than anything.)

 

[CCP]

I just hooked up my 310 to Ibeat for the first time and had the same historical error for open circuit injector. I just cleared the history and will keep an eye on it.

 

[DYNOBOB]

I had 16 injector "open circuit" errors when my PCV wire harnes to the injector wore thru and shorted to the fuel rail. Kept blowing fuses. I had just gotten iBeat about a week earlier and wouldn't have known where to start looking w/o it. The fuse would only blow when I was really leaning on the bike and the injector duty cycle increased enough to flow sufficient current to the short.

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[EricV]

I had 16 injector "open circuit" errors when my PCV wire harnes to the injector wore thru and shorted to the fuel rail. Kept blowing fuses. I had just gotten iBeat about a week earlier and wouldn't have known where to start looking w/o it. The fuse would only blow when I was really leaning on the bike and the injector duty cycle increased enough to flow sufficient current to the short.

.

Bam- that may be it and I should have thought of this. A few seasons ago I had a frayed/shorted area of the loom that had shorted to the extent that the bike was sputtering and cut out altogether. That's was close to the connector that hooks up the voltage regulator.

 

[CJBROWN]

Setting up with iBeat is like child's play as long as you've got settings to go by, ala Dynobob. Thank you for publishing all your dyno work!!

 

[CCP]

Also had an O2 heater error but I have no O2 sensor installed.

 

[DYNOBOB]

Setting up with iBeat is like child's play as long as you've got settings to go by, ala Dynobob. Thank you for publishing all your dyno work!!

I've benefited a lot from the forum (like your subframe braces), just trying to pay it forward.

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[Fast1]

Setting up with iBeat is like child's play as long as you've got settings to go by, ala Dynobob. Thank you for publishing all your dyno work!!

+1

 

[FasYankee]

I just got my iBeat cable yesterday, installed the software and played around with it a little to familiarize myself with the software. I'm dying to get on the bike but I'm still on restrictions post-surgery.

 

[Samaras1983]

I have a question :
If you change the settings and I do 114/107/104
and get out the o2,the settings living?

 

[DYNOBOB]

If you remove the O2 you need to plug the PU kit resistor in its place.

Your setting should work OK for a near stock 630:
104 in No. 1
107 in No. 2
114 in No. 3
If you have a 610 I can't be certain, you may want to find a dyno.


Here is how I look at/think about these settings. [Preface by saying I believe (and dyno shows) the 630 is very lean at high rpm/full throttle with just a PU kit. It is not nearly as lean at low to mid throttle openings, in fact it may be a little rich on a sniffer at low throttle/rpm. I base that statement on looking at the map that Dynojet came up with for the PCV (those guys have the best sniffers and do this stuff everyday) and "flame out" has never been much of a problem with 630s. Also, I think a thumper "runs" a little smother/less jerky at cruise if just a bit rich.]

No. 1 - If your bike starts easily, doesn't flame out, and doesn't hesitate/stumble taking off then your setting is probably OK. I wouldn't go crazy with this number.
No. 2 - Controls fueling at cruise rpm. Does the bike surge at cruise? Does it feel real "snatchy" when you start to lug it in taller gears (3500-4000rpm)? Try adding a little fuel. Keep in mind, adding fuel here is going to affect your fuel economy, don't go crazy and turn your spark plug black.
No. 3 - This is the easiest setting because a dyno will show beyond any doubt what # is best. From my testing 116-122 should cover most bikes depending on mods (and you're prob safe anywhere in that range). This also jives with what Dynojet found.


FWIW, this is the map that comes in the 630 Power Commander and I have pretty good faith that Dynojet knows what they're doing (iBeat set 100,100,100). You can see it's taking fuel out down low and adding a lot at high rpm. I've felt for a while my bike could pull a little smoother in higher gears at 4000rpm so I recently added some fuel back in at No1 and No2 with iBeat and I think it helped (about to put 3000 miles on it so we'll see - also will see what happens to economy).

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[DYNOBOB]

Actually, I just pulled up Dynojet's maps for a 2007-10 TE610 and they are a bit different than the 630. Do with this as you will... but 100,107,114 might be good if you have a pipe. Probably best to find a dyno.

stock bike - not adding fuel at high rpm - taking away a lot at low rpm.

with pipe - adding more fuel at full throttle - not leaning it as much down low.

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