• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Tessier's 2011 TE310 Upgrades and Adventures

Tessier

Tessier

Husqvarna
AA Class
I figured I would start a thread of some of my modifications and adventures for those of us with TE310's. First thing I did was add 7602 Racing Radiator guards. I started that in a seperate write up that you can see here. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/7602-radiator-guards.22480/#post-200370 Overall I am pleased with them. They could be better but i'd give them a solid 8 and proclaim them to be the best radiator guards that I have run. Next up was a skid plate. I have used E-Line carbon fiber plates on my previous two bikes DRZ400E and WR250F. While I had great luck with them they do deteriorate over time and I figured a switch back to aluminum was in order. I checked around and did some searching on the internet and the one that stuck out was Up-tite Husky http://www.uptitehusky.com/index.htm George the owner is quite the character and if you ever run into a problem that you can't seam to fix i'd run it by him before giving up! The one thing I will say is that George is very old school! My skid plate arrived UPS shipped COD. George doesn't take credit cards or paypal or any other method other than cash for internet orders. When it arrive it looked beautiful!

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This thing is HOT looking:notworthy:

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When comparing to to the stock plate your not really getting to much more protection. I guess the point is that it's a whole lot stronger and the additional coverage will hopefully be worth the extra expense.

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Install was a breeze! It's hold on with two screw one front and one back. The front one mounts to the stock location and the back one is mounted with a nut type bracket.

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Kind of hokey for the price would have been nice to have seen a machined block and fit into the hold and provided a more secure mounting point but i'll let it slide. I used loctite on both screws seeing that if one back's out your screwed literally. After putting in two screws your done!

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Sexy is always expensive shipped to my door for $162.00
 
I have the Uptite skid plate and it has saved me more than once. The mounting underneath is a not great as noted above. I fabricated my own bracket with my welder that makes it easier to mount and bolt. Still kind of a pain. I my just tap the side frame and bolt on each side. Still hate that oil line/drain plug setup. I have Cycra handguards and to me they are the best. I think it was George who told me pass on the radiator guards. He would sell them to me though. I had a great set on my CRF450X and I thought they worked. I think it was George who said you have a better chance of fixing the radiator on the trail than with a guard. Dont quote me but what he said made sense at the time. I think it was George. Anyway ride safe.
 
For the little bit of effort / trouble it takes to install and remove the guard I can't see any reason to drill into the frame. Less chance of rust, weakening a a frame. My 2cents worth.

I put my 2010 skid plate on my 2011 and I'm sure by the condition it is in its saved a few parts. You either have to love all the holes or not. Gets pretty dirty under there.

Enjoy the new bike.
 
Bike looks good mate I run the husqvarna racing alloy bash plate it has two bolts and a clamp arrangement on the rear so nice and secure and I fitted force acessories radiator guards they are Australian made and come in red so they look good. I notice you still have the horn bolted to the radiator in you first post picture. I was worried about the horn going through the radiator if I dropped it so I bought an after maket one and bolted it behind the head light useing the indicator mount bolt it worked great and its out the way.
 
Installed a GPR V4 Dirt Stabilizer today on my TE. It was super easy :thumbsup: to do and didn't require any modification's if you use the closest mounting distance (I may opt for the bars to be further out and use the second mounting holes after more time on the bike.

This is the stuff you'll end up taking off.

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The one nice thing about the GRP is that it doesn't raise the bars. It comes with it's own mount and the dampener fits under the bars. One thing that the instructions didn't clearly spell out was how to tighten/torque the supplied steering stem nut supplied in the kit. When you remove the old nut and replace it with the GPR provided one you'll notice it has an odd square hole in it. For some reason it didn't dawn on me what it was for, but I eventually figured it out. It was for a 1/2" Drive ratchet or breaker bar.:thumbsup:

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The unit fits over that nut and then bolts down to it's own mount with two 5MM allen bolts (who uses 5MM) Put the bars back on and your done! Well almost.

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The only minor problem I noticed the bolts for the top triple clamp were hitting the bottom of the mount before hitting the frame stops.

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No problem just needed to adjust the steering stops 1.5 turns. When I loosened them I noticed they were barely even tight.

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After snugging them up I was done. Overall it was a easy project and should be a great new addition. Now if only the temp was above 30˚ I might get to take the bike out for a ride.

Pro's: Super easy Install, Great company to deal with (I ordered a kit for my WR250F like 3 years ago and never got it installed because of needed to machine my top clamp so it sat for a long time. I called them up and they said just send us back the old kit even though it was opened and well upgrade you to the new V4 for the difference and shipping:banana: doesn't get much better than that!).

Con's: Only thing I can come up with is that the hardware was all different size's It would be nice if the bolts could have had more commonality so I didn't have to switch Allen keys so often, needed to adjust steering stop, honestly that's it!:applause:
 
I like the GPR setup, but I don't see an application for the MY11 TE310 on their website. Did you use the kit for the TC450?
 
I called them because I had an unused GPR V1 that I had ordered for a different bike I no longer owned. They were great to deal with and let me exchange it for the new style. They only offer the V4 for huskys because of the post length. They were concerned that if they did a top mount the post would bend. So far I love it but not many miles so far.
 
Did you find the LT side of the uptight skiddy fitting too close to the engine side cover? Mine is within paper thickness of touching. Not too thrilled with that if I whack a big rock seems it would do damage? Maybe it wont move at all.

Just as a precaution I zip tied the hole on the rear frame wings to the frame just under the foot peg area just in case that rear nut bracket were to fail.
 
JasonfromMN said:
Did you find the LT side of the uptight skiddy fitting too close to the engine side cover? Mine is within paper thickness of touching. Not too thrilled with that if I whack a big rock seems it would do damage? Maybe it wont move at all.
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The skidplate is too close to the ignition cover. I have some marks on my ignition cover from the skidplate making contact during a rocky ride over the Sierra Mountains. I have a round piece of rubber I had and wedged it between the cover and skidplate.
 
columbia510 said:
The skidplate is too close to the ignition cover. I have some marks on my ignition cover from the skidplate making contact during a rocky ride over the Sierra Mountains. I have a round piece of rubber I had and wedged it between the cover and skidplate.
Click to expand...
When that happens, I just stick a pry bar down in against the frame rail and giv'er a good reef. That bends the plate side out enough to give proper clearance. Have had to do this on more than one occasion to plates that were crushed in from rocks and crashes.....
 
For now I'm using zip ties around the holes to prevent chafing but will convert to something better and more permanent later.

Slowpoke said:
When that happens, I just stick a pry bar down in against the frame rail and giv'er a good reef. That bends the plate side out enough to give proper clearance. Have had to do this on more than one occasion to plates that were crushed in from rocks and crashes.....
Click to expand...

Not a bad idea, think I'll have to gently try that.
 
My skid plates fits very close to the engine cover's but is mounted solid and does not move around so I am comfortable with it. I have a little under 200 miles on it and just completed upgrading to Race Map 1. I checked but my throttle stop was never installed by the dealer or factory who ever does it.

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Removing the oxygen sensor was quite the game trying to locate the connector under the tank. Here is a picture of where it is for those of you who haven't done it yet.

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Next I cleaned the air filter and noticed that the holes in the bottom of the air box that a few people have mentioned are really sucking in air. When riding in dusty condition's it is really clear. My major concern is water getting in. I have seen a few people make dust flaps with tape but curious to know how sealing them shut will affect the airflow.

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From a ride stand point the bike is decent not overly impressed with the EFI but in the quick lap around my block with the race map enabled I did notice a major gain in smoothness can't wait to see how that translates when riding on trail's. My biggest complaint has been lugging the bike in first gear the throttle becomes a light switch it's either on or off so hopefully that improves. Otherwise so far so good no failures or issues to note. Ordered 8 oil filters for $29.00 from Ebay and need some hand guards so that's what's next up for me.
 
I just ordered a set of Highway Dirt Bikes hand guards and wanted to post a note and let anyone with a GPR V4 the top clamp bolt hole pattern is 40mm X 100mm
 
I have a little problem, it appears that the tabs are bent on my swing arm and when I mount up my new BRP Guide it is kicking the chain off the rear sprocket anyone have any experience with this?
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One thing I did with my uptite skid plate was I went to Home Depot and bought some clear hose (I think it was 3/4" Dia) and slit it length wise and put it over the frame tubes and trapped it between the skid plate and frame. This is keeping my frames from getting chipped as well as stopping any rattles.

Just a note, I did use a 2010 skid plate from my te250 on my '11 te310. I had to make a center mount plate for it as well. I did not have any case hitting problems like railway rob had though.
 
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