• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Tell me about the CR ignition on your WR250/300

You say "equal trigger length". How exactly is the spark triggered on these? All of my EFI experience is on cars, where generally there is a short pulse at TDC (or some point known to be relative to TDC) that the ECM uses to determine engine position each rev, and then and does the math to figure out when to fire the spark.

I guess it would be best if I understood exactly how the system was triggered.

What is so different about the Ducati units? To my understanding, I would think that as long as you can provide the CDI box with power and the proper trigger signal, it will work. The trigger signal is just a binary on/off (right?), so how much will these differ.

Clearly I'm missing some details of this. :D
 
I don't know everything about CDI either, but I've found that if it's programed to see a signal for X number of degrees it won't like a trigger that has a different X factor.

HPI has programmable boxes, so I'm sure something could be fixed there. Same as with an MSD unit. But, when it comes to swapping a unit from one bike to another with a non programmable box that's where it will matter. Like taking a YZ250 ignition and installing it on a WR.

A stator and flywheel from a CR125 might every well be the best set up you could start with. The stator plate seems to be the same as the one from a 2002 CR250 and the flywheel has the right trigger size to run the '02 box, or a JD Racing unit. It also seems to use the same plug.

I'm also looking more at a plug and play type system that we could swap over from another bike. If you were willing to work at it and possible trash a top end, then you could probable figure out something just trying to adapt a box from another bike into the Ducati stator.

Personally, I'm not willing to put that much into it. I was able to get an '01 stator to work with an '02 box and that was hard enough.

Disclaimer time; I've been looking at something I can pick up from salvage, for less than $200 and make it work like a $1200 2002 CR250 system, without spending another $200 in machine work.

If you have the money, then just buy the 2002 unit and install it. I just hate paying that much for a unit that is just like the one from a Jap bike that I can buy new for less than half that price.

I'm cheap. I've got about $250 and a few hours work in my ignition.

Now I'm just trying to help you guys get the same performance at the same price.
 
I am cheap too. I am not going to spend $1k on this; $250 is about the max I will do, and I would love to do less. I also need to have lights, so that makes it even harder.

But, I do love a project...
 
msmith345 said:
I doubt it will help much, but the PVL unit for the Husky is the same as the Hodaka ;-) the PVL does not use a woodruff key though, so the taper would be the only thing being checked.

I can check the part number when I get home, then using this page we can get the measurements for the taper:

http://www.pvl-zuendungen.de/cms-en/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=73&Itemid=74


The fact that it rotates the opposite direction, has me thinking the largest problem will be getting it to fire where it should before TDC rather than after.
Click to expand...

umm wich rotation are we talking about clockwise? thats to the right -> for all you digital kids.
pvl do a husqvarna set up.. im interested as it looks like my cdi has given up the ghost from my 2002 360. so unless i can get an illusive cr ignition i may well be looking into pvl. failing that ive got a good looking bit of rolling scrap.
 
PVL system came off my 250. Between having the Lectron all screwed up and the timing I went back and looked over all of the stock one. Found a spot that could possibly have been shorting taped it up and reinstalled. Got it to fire but still chasing the right Lectron setting. Might look into putting the PVL back on after I get a break in races, but I'm not overly optimistic with it. Marking it up as a $470 mistake at this point.
 
MOTORHEAD said:
I don't know everything about CDI either, but I've found that if it's programed to see a signal for X number of degrees it won't like a trigger that has a different X factor.

HPI has programmable boxes, so I'm sure something could be fixed there. Same as with an MSD unit. But, when it comes to swapping a unit from one bike to another with a non programmable box that's where it will matter. Like taking a YZ250 ignition and installing it on a WR.

A stator and flywheel from a CR125 might every well be the best set up you could start with. The stator plate seems to be the same as the one from a 2002 CR250 and the flywheel has the right trigger size to run the '02 box, or a JD Racing unit. It also seems to use the same plug.

I'm also looking more at a plug and play type system that we could swap over from another bike. If you were willing to work at it and possible trash a top end, then you could probable figure out something just trying to adapt a box from another bike into the Ducati stator.

Personally, I'm not willing to put that much into it. I was able to get an '01 stator to work with an '02 box and that was hard enough.

Disclaimer time; I've been looking at something I can pick up from salvage, for less than $200 and make it work like a $1200 2002 CR250 system, without spending another $200 in machine work.

If you have the money, then just buy the 2002 unit and install it. I just hate paying that much for a unit that is just like the one from a Jap bike that I can buy new for less than half that price.

I'm cheap. I've got about $250 and a few hours work in my ignition.

Now I'm just trying to help you guys get the same performance at the same price.
Click to expand...


So are you really looking at $1200 to buy a complete new 02' CR250 set up that's plug and play in the 300? Can you dual map this set up? Thanks
 
Msmith345 So you dont think pvl is the way togo then?
Its a bit cheaper in uk as theyre a german company about £160
complete set-up with 13• advance curve. Oh the pvl site states these
Systems can run both ways!
 
Depends on what dash youve got.
If its a trail tech then yes it will
Work from its own battery
If its supposed to be powered from the loom
No it wont be supported.
 
juicypips said:
Msmith345 So you dont think pvl is the way togo then?
Its a bit cheaper in uk as theyre a german company about £160
complete set-up with 13• advance curve. Oh the pvl site states these
Systems can run both ways!
Click to expand...

It's a complete setup and it has 2 timing marks; one for ccw and one for cw rotation. The thing about the curve is its not a curve. It's a static. If you're 13* advanced at idle, it will be 13 degrees advanced at 10k rim as well. If you look at the stock curve, it varies between about 8 degrees at just above idle to around 26 degrees at high rpms. So, even with a perfectly setup PVL, you're not going to have it all at all RPMs.
 
Chums, that would be about right, and yes, you can dual map a JD Racing box.

The 2002 stator has three empty poles on it that should be able to be wound for lighting.
 
I dont think it is all worth the fuss. I have a 02 CR250, runs great. But so does a Wr250. If you could do it for like $200 it might be worth it but any more than that your throwing your money away IMHO. Spend money on suspension and have way more gains.
 
Ive kinda moved on from this idea. I will most likely change to a different bike next year. WR300 has enough power for the racing Im doing so Ive decided not to mess with it.
 
Hay kelly im not sure on every one else but im
Just trying to find a good replacement ignition for my wr
I cant get a cr ignition for sensible price...

Msmith so our wr ignitions are 8deg advance curve?
So i should get the 22deg set up? Not meaning to wind any one up
Just trying to be clear
 
juicypips said:
Msmith so our wr ignitions are 8deg advance curve?
So i should get the 22deg set up? Not meaning to wind any one up
Just trying to be clear
Click to expand...
http://www.husqvarnafactory.nl/pdf/2011/2011_WSM_WR_250-300.pdf
page 302

If you're still referring to the PVL system, it's a fixed timing analog system. You measure and adjust to where you want it to fire. They do make a digital one with a fixed curve that you advance or retard the entire curve, however, as far as Husqvarnas go, they only offer one for 93-current 125-175 applications. They do not offer it for displacements over 200cc.

They don't give model specific timing suggestions only a general guess based on displacement. Which is basically where my gripe is. I had it in their suggestion, and it was firing with the exhaust ports open, and another adjustment, it kicked back so hard I thought it broke my foot/ankle, but it for sure broke the shank of my hiking boots I was wearing. Another time, and it wouldn't shut off, so I pulled the plug cap, and put 50k volts through myself. It's a strong spark, it arced to the plug over 5 inches away.
 
Is the CR stator plate the same diameter as the WR300 plate and use the same bolt hole locations? My 11 Ducati stator measures 110mm in diameter. Anyone have a CR or earlier WR stator laying around they can measure?
 
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